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Dimplex DS3311 switch is overheating and melting. What to do?

I have ordered replacement switches from Dimplex and installed them. My unit/switches keep burning out... What I think is occurring is that the switches are getting hot and melting. In particular, it is the middle switch which is designated as the Low Heat switch. The diagram shows the Red wire going into postion 1 Red wire postion 2 and the actual wire connecting to position 2 on switch is ??daisy chained?? connecting Grey wire... Anyone have any suggestions? Other than Electrician... I hate to throw it out....

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  • Expert
  • 72 Answers

How long does it take before the switch melts?
You could try retrofitting a switch from the hardware store that has a higher watt/amp rating...

Posted on Jan 17, 2013

  • swinkler740 Jan 17, 2013

    Thanks for responding. switches melt after about 4/5 uses approx 8-10 hours of use

  • Tech X Direct
    Tech X Direct Jan 18, 2013

    I would contact Dimplex"s free tech support and describe the problem in full. Make sure to communicate how often they are burning out. Technical specialists: 1-888-346-7539 Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. EST

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SOURCE: Line voltage Tstat installation Dayton D-F79 elctric shop heater

If I understand your post correctly....You state that you are hooking up a 240v heater and towards the end you speak of removing jumpers...W2 terminals..ect. It sounds to me your trying to us a 24v low voltage thermostat instead of a Line voltage thermostat.That's what I'd take a look at.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

buzzwood
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SOURCE: Dimplex Compact Electric Flame Stove Heater

call Dimples !-800-663-6663 ext 358 They will be able to help you out.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

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SOURCE: Properly installed electric baseboard heater won't work.

I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.

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put the jumper back in RC and RH and that should do it.

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SOURCE: open circuit on electric heater

Well, it's a little late but since this is still up and people still read it apparently, here's a few more pointers on problems like this.

The part that blew is usually called a thermal fuse, and appliance parts stores usually insist on knowing the temperature that is printed on the side in order to get you a replacement.
They should also be able to sell you heat-resistant crimp-on connectors with which to install it.

Small motors usually slow down and stop because the bearings are plugged up with dust and crud. A drop or two of light oil might work but more likely you'll have to disassemble the motor. Don't use WD-40 unless you like your house full of that smell, and if you do chase it with some real oil because it evaporates out of the bearings and leaves them dry eventually. Be careful not to bend the fan blades. Clean the bearings and the shaft until a white piece of cloth doesn't show any dirt.

For those of you with heaters still running, an ounce of prevention: Take care of the motor as soon as you notice it running slow. The slower it runs the hotter the coils get and if they get hot enough the thermal fuse blows and you have to hassle with replacing it. Also, nichrome wire eventually fails by breaking, stretching, and/or sagging; and the hotter it gets the sooner it fails.

Posted on Dec 30, 2009

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