There is a key in the machine under the drum.when the machine is on spin the key is tearing between the drum and what it runs in.how i know its a key is becauce 1 key has come out already(by accident).have you got any advice on how to get under the drum.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It shakes when off balance. Your wash load may be balanced but the drum may not be. This could be down to the drum bearing or the "spider" that holds the drum in place. If one of the arms is broken it will spin off balance.
the spin cycle is run by a belt-I'd say something is stuck like the drum or you just have a bad belt or probably both. you'll have to do a tear down to see for sure-to check bearing in tube try to turn by hand to see if its tightCheers-Denny
its a separate cycle all by itself. Say U hand wash something in a sink and instead of wringing it out by hand U can put it in the washer and press this SPIN cycle. So U can also use it to spin more water out of your garments after the regular wash and spin cycle.
Slower spin speeds mean -
Cheaper washing machines
Quieter washing machines
More stable washing machines
Longer lasting washing machines because there's less wear and tear on the bearings, motor, carbon brushes, suspension etc.*
Gentler on laundry
The drum spins for approx 4 or 5 mins. No water is added and you dont add detergent or fabric softener for the spin only option. The object of the exercise is to centrifugally remove excess water from the garments in the drum. They will still be damp but not sopping wet after the spin cycle
The motor could be on its last leg of working. You can also check to make sure that the belt is not binding against anything under the drum. You may also want to make sure that the conterbalance weight is not hitting the belt. Make sure that your machine is lever and that it does not walk during spining.
your stabilisers are either off the hooks or shot or the springs that keep the drum in place are over stretched most likely cause is overloading it as for the leaking the water tight skin around the door most likely has a hole or tear in it all are fixable, bras are the most likely cause for this or anything with metal in it depends on how old it is really, they can tear under stress from being overloaded
A couple of possibilities,there is something fast in the drum,or the main drum bearings have seized up.
If it is the bearings, and it is under 5 tears old, then you should be able to get it done under your 5 year parts guarantee., you just pay for labour and call out, a much sheaper solution than buying a new washer.
You really need to determine what has caused it to jam up.
Plz rate this solution.
only 3 ways to do this 1)take your sump hose off under the washer place your fingers on the inside of the washer and turn the drum slowly but watch your fingers the inner drum will act like a cheese grater i know this due to doing it myself and only once 2)got to strip it down totally but this is a big job m8 3)leave for a while it will find itself to the sump hose but this could damage your inner drum by tearing the side
I just finished completely disassmbling my machine for the exact same reason you mentioned. And I mean completely. Not a screw still in place. It took 4 hours.
Turns out in my case that electrolysis is the problem.
What I mean by this is that behind the inner drum is a three pronged heavy metal piece made from galvanized steel which attaches to the inner drum by 6 large screws. Coming out of the center of this is a post which comes through the plastic drum housing into the back of the machine and hooks to the assembly your belt runs on. (This wheel for the belt looks a bit like a tire wheel well but thinner.)
What the problem is for me is that the piece inside that attaches to the drum (the galvanized steel one) has completely corroded from electrolysis and broken. All three prongs have completely broken off making it impossible for the drum to turn. I am a little irritated with GE at the moment because had they used an appropriate metal, knowing it would be constantly bathed by the water from the laundry loads, I would not be in this predicament. I am a little disturbed that a 15 lb metal part has broken before the rubber belt even wore out!
I mysel am on here right now trying to find the exact name of this part and possibly a part number so I can order it and replace it. My basement is currently a compete mess from this project and I have laundry waiting to be done.
I am also looking to see if maybe this just might be a recall situation where we can get some help with getting the part due to what I feel is faulty manufacturing.
Should I come up with any of these answers I will come back on here and share them with you.
In the meantime, unless you have the appropriate tools, plenty of time and plenty of patience, I don't suggest tearing into your machine like I have. It may be worth calling a appliance repair place for you.
If you want to be certain that this is in fact the same problem with your washer, open your machine and see if you can freely move the drum around by pushing on it. If it isn't a good solid middle of the machine spin and has play in it wear you can lift the drum a bit in any direction, we have the same problem.
Just from your description, I am betting we do.
I hope this is helpful, and I'll let you know what I find out!