Question about GE Ovens
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hoping someone can point me
next time send the brand name and model number so i can look up your machine,if it's a gas stove most likely it will be a bad ignitor,even if the ignitor glows it still could be bad,if the flame doesn't ignite and the ignitor is glowing change it out,if it isn't glowing pull out the ignitor and check it with a meter,common problem.
Posted on May 07, 2011
SOURCE: GE jvm140k prchase 1993.
The model you gave was for a microwave oven. In the backside of the microwave is a air cooling window. If it gets clogged with junk the mag will overheat and the limit on the side of it will shut down the oven. Simply cleaning this area so that air can circulate better can cure the problem. I suspect it finally got so bad that the cavity thermal limit has blown now and you have nothing at all.
I have a service manual and more HERE
Posted on May 27, 2011
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I've read your previous post's and can see a couple of scenarios have been thrown out there, so this may just add fuel to the fire...no pun intended.
It sounds to me like a tripped hi-limit safety thermostat is the culprit, hence neither ignitor so much as glows. I'll explain. If the valve where faulty the ignitors woul;d still glow as it is the ignitors which allow the valves to open not the other way around.
Further to that, if the ignitor where faulty, it is unlikely it would be both at the same time, however if a hi-limit safety tripped it shuts down power to both the broil and bake ignitors thus no oven function at all...that is it's function "safety".
The hi-limit safety on your range is on the back wall so you need to slide the oven out (if you haven't done so by now) to inspect it. To do so is pretty easy, one of two ways.
You can jump across it to see if it allows the oven to operate or you can ohm it out with a meter. it should simply be a closed circuit if good, open if not. It is the non-reset type unfortunately so you'll need to replace it.
It is part number 8300802 and available at "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect.com" to name just a couple.
Let me know what you find and I'll be glad to help you moving forward from there. Good luck.
Posted on May 31, 2011
SOURCE: jenn air gas oven won't
Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. you have a electric oven or a gas oven that won't heat or doesn't heat properly, here are some things you will need to check. The most likely cause of a oven not heating correctly is a defective heating element. You have two types of heating elements in your oven. The bottom element(s) are the baking elements. The element(s) on the top are the broil elements. If you don't see the bright red glow from the element, chances are they are not working or not working correctly. If a heating element is bad, you need to replace the entire element. If your oven is warm and not correctly hot, one of the elements may be bad. In most ovens, when you preheat, both elements are used. This would make the oven to appear like it is working correctly but it is not. If the elements are not working, they might not be getting power. Test the wires to the elements with a voltage meter to make sure they are getting power before you decide to change them out. Many electrical ovens have a sensor that monitors the oven temperture. Ovens that have this sensor usually contain a digital display on the oven. The sensor could be defective. Those without the sensor use the basic mechanical system to control the oven temperature. You also want to check the thermostat sensing bulb. Make sure the bulb is good and has not come loose. Now, if you have a gas range oven that doesn't heat properly, first, you want to check your bake igniter. It may have burned out or it could be not working properly. It will be located near your burner. It is also possible that you are not getting gas to the burner. If so, it may be the gas safety valve or the igniter. You need to check your selector switch and thermostat as well. They may be defective. Always make sure you test the parts for power with a voltage meter of some type before you decide to change the part. If you have a part that appears to not be working, it may not be getting power because of a bad wire or broken connection.
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
SOURCE: Oven won't light, "F1" fault
The problem is with the touch pad, the touch is defective, it is shorted and will need to be replaced, Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) which is the touch pad, once this is replaced, the problem is solve.
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 08, 2013 | Thermador CM301U Electric Single Oven
Nov 24, 2012 | GE JGRS14 Gas Single Oven
Mar 26, 2012 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
1.Press the "Clear/Off" button on the control panel to reset the oven. This will clear the lock setting and unlock the door.
2.Allow the oven to cool to room temperature to avoid turning the lock on again during this heating cycle.
3.Reset the oven to the temperature you require to finish cooking by pressing the correct temperature control on the control pad.
1.If your GE Profile microwave won't turn on, unplug it, then plug it back in. A power outage may have occurred due to a power surge. Check your home's fuses and circuit breakers.
2.Set the clock of your GE Profile microwave. Certain models will not operate until you set the clock. Select the "Clock" key and type in the correct time.
3.Hold down your microwave's "Off" button. You may have accidentally hit the control-lock feature on your GE Profile microwave. Hold down the "Off" button for three seconds to turn the lock off.
4.If the sensors of your GE Profile microwave are not working correctly, remove the food from the machine. If the sensors detect food-surface temperatures over 200 degrees Fahrenheit, it will not work properly until the area cools down.
5.Contact GE Support if you are unable to resolve the issue on your own. Call the GE Support hotline or browse the help library on the GE website. You can also schedule a service visit on GE's website.
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