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Have replaced electronic ignitor but still not operating correctly, when heater is on, there is an odor of gas and noxious fumes emanating from fire box, have checked gas supply line and there is adequate pressure, no codes come on display, what could be the problem?
Wow - sounds like the gas valve is opening without the electronic ignition not kicking in. Here is a link to the Mfg site so you can download the trouble shooting guide.
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Before ignitor is energized there are several safety limits that must be operating correctly, one of which is usually a flame roll out/temp limit switch. This switch will have little red push button on back side. Power off unit, unplug or turn off breaker so no power to heater and verify no power. If you see thos switch push reset, if you feel it click then power back on and then try it. If it happens again or if you don't see manual reset switch then call a professional.
yes, make sure you order the correct part, youll need the model number and serial number. the ignitor has 2 wires wrapped with white fibers, usually 2 screws to remove it, and theres only one way to plug it back in. NOTE: Ignition failure does not always mean the ignitor needs replaced. make sure your ignitor doesnt turn on and glow when you start the heater. if it does, youll want to clean out the gas orifices.
It sounds like the ignitor is not working, Since the heater is not detecting a flame it goes to lockout. Check the ignitor wiring to see if it is in good shape. Sometimes the connection where the wire (from the IID) connects to the ignitor gets corroded.
It could also be the IID which makes sure the safety loop is complete before calling for heat and sending current to the ignitor. Good luck with it.
if the heating element is out, the pilot will try and start , but if the thermocouple in the unit itself isn't letting the gas release,, it isn't going to fire up , Check the thermocouple , if its built into the controller valve,, your either going to have to replace that ( if its possible on that unit,, ) or get a new water heater
Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to
produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of
the time is the following sequence of operation:
1.
Thermostat calls for heat.
2.
Draft inducer motor starts.
3.
Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the
negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and
closes.
4.
Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small
metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white
porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8
to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no
ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back
off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over
again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution:You probably need to
purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your
ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not
touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not
visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a
limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board
might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor.If your furnace
lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then
you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You
might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will
work well after cleaning.
You won't see any red glow until the burner ignites and burns for a while. Its only an ignitor and flame sensor, not a glow plug style.The ignitor has to provide spark for gas to ignite, then it also senses the flame and keeps gas flow coming. What exactly is happening when you turn it to on?
Shut off the gas to the heater and pull the ignitor out. Turn everything on and push the button in the door opening to get the heater to turn on. Look at the ignitor and see if there is spark across the probes when you hear the clicking. If not, replace the ignitor.
If there is, put the ignitor back in the heater and then look at the valve. The two wires that bring the 115V to the valve need to be pulled and then checked with a meter. Start up the heater again and look for the 115VAC when the ignitor starts sparking. If you see it, replace the valve. If not, replace the control board.
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