Question about Washing Machines
It will wash but it will not get rid of the dirty water, makes a grinding sound
If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain and the drain pump does not run at all, here’s the information you need to replace the drain pump:
Symptom: PUMP IS NOT RUNNING, NOT DRAINING AT ALL.
1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. Sometimes objects get caught in the pump impeller and stop it from running. We’re going to assume that you have already done this and that the pump no longer runs. It is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line at this point or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. HINT: Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
7. Locate the electrical connection to the pump and disconnect.
8. Now locate the two drain lines and remove them. The hose clamps can be released by squeezing with a pair of pliers. NOTE: I would not recommend removing the hose from the bottom of the wash tub unless you really have to. This one can be difficult at times to get back on.
9. Remove the torx type screw at the front center of the pump and it should slide right out of the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case.
10. Your new pump comes with several adapters to place on the feet of the pump in order for it to properly fit your washer. These are rubber bushings that help get rid of vibration and noise. If you become confused, there should be installation instructions that come with your new pump. You can also look at the pump you just removed to see how the bushings are mounted.
11. Reinstall the drain lines to the pump. HINT: It is much easier to do this with the pump still OUT, rather than installing it. When you squeeze the clamps to open them up, make sure you slide the clamp completely over the hose AND the inlet/outlet tubes on the pump housing in order to get a good seal.
12. Reinstall pump by sliding the feet of the pump into the mounting grooves on the bottom of the washer case. Tighten the center screw and reattach the electrical connection.
13. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
14. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
15. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump is supposed to energize and begin to drain.
16. If the pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall panel and tighten screws.
CAUTION: Use care when reaching inside the washer case not to damage the small wire harness that runs along the front of the machine.
NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.
NOTE: My initial symptoms describe a drain pump that is NOT running. It is actually possible for the drain pump to be running and STILL not drain. If the pump impeller becomes damaged, or if the motor shaft is stripped, the pump will run, but will not drain properly.
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Posted on Sep 12, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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I think I have the same type of washing machine as you do. Wash is when all the clothes get agitated or mixed with soap and water (ever look in there when its washing? the water can get pretty gross looking!) So in my washer, the rinse cycle is when all that gross water is drained, and the washer spins while spraying clean water over the clothes to get rid of the dirty water and soap. I think mine does this 5 or 6 times in the cycle. Next is the spin cycle, which is when the washer spins REALLY fast to **** as much water out of the clothes as possible, so that the clothes aren't sopping wet when you put them in the dryer.
It sounds like your mom has a newer washing machine, probably a front load one, and they do seem to keep using clean water, instead of just agitating the clothes in dirty water.
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