Question about Olympus Camedia C-5050 Zoom Digital Camera

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5050 Battery's (rechargable penlights) are dead within minutes. New batteries did not help.

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Use quality 2000+ NiMH batteries and sand your contacts a little. Most of the time, low current output of the batteries can be attributed to poor contacts, like your car not starting unless you jiggle the battery post.

Posted on Nov 29, 2013

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  • Master
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Have you tried a firmware upgrade for your camera ?

Posted on Jan 27, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

daverh
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SOURCE: Camera died

I've posted this elsewhere on this site but I can't find a simple way of linking directly to it, so I'll repeat it here: ================================= The powere switch is part of the mode dial assembly. Mode dial repair kits are often listed on eBay. Don't try the repair yourself unless you have some experience in dismantling (and more importantly re-assembling!) modern cameras - although given that getting an "official" repair is probably not economic it may be worth the risk. There are instructions for replacing the dial here http://myolympus.org/5050/modedial/ It's really not that difficult but patience and good eyesight are needed.

Posted on Sep 16, 2007

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SOURCE: camera batteries drain quickly

Open the battery door and check the contact between the camera and the batteries. Most often then not there is just a bad contact and it's ruinning your baterry life.
Make sure that the contact are well placed and that there is no rust or dirt build up around there.

Posted on Dec 20, 2007

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My keyboard. Won't charge.help


Are you sure it's rechargeable? Most wireless keyboards use standard alkaline penlight batteries, either AA or AAA size, which last about a year (some more, some less). Open the battery compartment on the keyboard and replace them. Or do you have a wired unit with a cable that runs from the keyboard to the computer? If so, check the connection to make sure it's plugged in properly.

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Two brand new Hitachi BSL1815X Lithium Batteries won't recharge (UC18YGSL charger and DS 18DSAL drill)


These batteries have big problems that Hitachi doesn't address very well. Unlike NiCad batteries, Lith-Ion ones must be periodically used and recharged to retain their battery functions, i.e. if they have been sitting on the shelf at a store for an extended period of time, chances are they will be dead when bought and will not accept a charge. If they go dead i.e. no little red light on the charger when you plug the battery unit in...it's basically junk.

If you can return them or exercise the warranty do so. If / when you get new ones DO NOT completely discharge them like you would NiCads. Lith-Ion batteries do not have the "battery memory" issues that NiCads have which means you don't lose running time if you don't fully discharge the battery unit prior to recharge. Completely discharging before recharge will ultimately kill them. Use the 1815X till almost dead and then charge it. It is also recommended Lith-Ion batteries not be stored fully charged i.e. charge the 1815X fully, drive a couple bolts or screws, remove the battery unit and then put it away. Do not leave battery unit plugged into the tool when you put the tool away. This will discharge and kill the battery unit.

There are non-Hitachi substitute batteries now on the market. I'm guessing the same precautions apply but I don't own one of the replacements so I don't truly know.

The actual batteries in the Hitachi BSL 1815X are Sanyo UR18650SAX lithium ion batteries. Lithium Ion cells aren't all that easy to get commercially because of handling & safety requirements. Not certain if you can take apart the 1815X and swap out the bad Sanyo cells.

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I get a blinking yellow light when recharging my IRobot Roomba 550. What's wrong?


I am afraid you are having the problem of old or weak batteries. Old batteries at times tend to show such problems and do not show charge while charging properly. For this purpose, you can use a reliable Nicad Battery Repair Guide through which you can recharge the batteries without any problem and make them work like the new ones within no time, without anyone's help and you can do this all by sitting at home! I tried it and now I never buy new nicad batteries (http://www.nicadbatteryrepair.com/).

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My vivicam 5050 camera says the battery's are dead even when there new battery's. is there anyway to stop this? the battery's work perfectly outside the camera i don't know what the problem could be....


It is possible that there is a fault, or that the battery connections in the camera are dirty or corroded, but digital cameras are famously demanding on batteries. You must use good alkaline batteries or better, a set of high capacity NiMH recharegables. Zinc or "long life" batteries just aren't up to the task.

New rechargeable batteries are supplied only partially charged. You need to charge them fully before use.

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I am having the same problem with my Zoom-H2. I have 2 2650 mah rechargeables, and the draw is such that 20-30 minutes of record &/or playback kills the batteries. Last night I just turned the power on and did nothing. 5 hours later the batteries were dead...

This isn't a solution. It is a reaffirmation that you aren't crazy!

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the battery can pull 30 amps,and after a couple minutes 5 to 10 amps.the battery will be fully charged in an hour. At a 2 amp charge rate,it will take overnight to charge.

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How do I replace battery?


I had the same problem... the battery is part # 501235 and is 3.7v 150 mah (yes, it's tiny). Searching for this on the web yields such a part at various places but not any retail options that I could find.
I took it apart per the instructions at instructables.com (above) and then jump-started the battery using a maglight penlight. Sometimes rechargeable batteries get "stuck" on empty when they drain down to absolute zero and have trouble accepting any charge... To jumpstart it, do this:
Get a Maglight AAA or AA penlight (2 cell) and unscrew the end as if you were going to replace the light bulb. The bare bulb must be on when the reflector is removed (or, perhaps the batteries are dead).
Remove the bulb.
Obtain two short (1") pieces of bare 22-26AWG wire and insert them into the holes where the bulb wires were previously inserted.
Using a multimeter, determine which wire is positive and which is negative
Align the + terminal of the rechargeable battery in the Jabra with the positive wire identified on the flashlight - do the same with the negative terminal. Hold the flashlight on the battery for a minute or so to allow some of the current from the light to slightly charge the jabra battery.
Before putting the Jabra back together, try the AC or USB power cord - you should now get a solid red light if it is charging.
If not, try to "jump" it again for another minute or two or three.
If this doesn't work, the battery is probably totally shot - maybe you'll have better luck finding a replacement than I did.
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