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What is the proper way to cut drywall with a razor knife?

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Use a level or straight piece of drywall, and place it along the drywall you want to cut, cut with the knife along the straight edge (you dont need to cut through the entire width of the drywall). Then fold the drywall on the cut, and while folded cut the other side of the drywall paper. you should have a clean, straight cut

Posted on Jan 16, 2013


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The cutting disc on my makita 5806b spins anti clockwise causing damage if i cut laminate from the top and i need it to spin clockwise

You could turn the laminate over.
The proper tools would be either a router with an edge bit ( what I and most cabinet makers use ) or a low tech utility knife (carpet knife ) yep just a razor knife - really it works.


Jun 12, 2014 | Makita 10" Miter Saw LS1030N


Cutting Drywall Like a Pro

Cutting drywall is one of the more easy cuttings that you will do when remodeling your house although you hear all kinds of horror stories of people making huge mistakes and having to re-hang drywall or use exorbitant amounts of putty to fix mistakes. Following just a few simple tips you can master the task of cutting drywall.

Most of the cuts that you will be doing will fall under the category of score, snap, cut. Because dry wall is fairly easy to cut, for a majority of cuts you will just need a scoring knife with just enough pressure to cut the paper and then you will be able to snap the drywall then you have to cut the paper on the back side and you are done.

For the major cutouts that you will be doing like doors and windows, the best way to go about doing them is to measure and cut the boards before you hang them. Its best to have someone help you hold the board in place.

There are two main types of saws that you will use a drywall rip saw and a keyhole saw. They each have their purpose and they should only be used for the purposes that they are meant for. The keyhole saw is for small cuts like holes for light fixtures, outlets and switches while the rip saw is for cutting drywall down to size like for doors and windows.

Once you have mastered the basics of cutting drywall you will be able to do more advanced home repairs and will spend less time worrying about cutting out pieces of drywall.

on Jan 23, 2014 | Drywall


Minor Drywall Repairs

<span>It takes about 4 days for a good patch to be made. You can buy the materials in small quantities at the hardware store, so it won't cost much at all for a small hole, and a little more for a larger one.<br /><br />For a hole smaller than a tennis ball, you can press newspaper crumpled loosely into a ball into the hole, as much as you need, to build the hole up to just below the surface, then cover with overlapping layers of drywall mesh tape. The directions for a larger hole follow, and you can skip the first parts of it if you do not need them (if you are using the newspaper method.). With this method (newspaper) the most important part is to remember that the first coat of spackling is just to anchor the tape and bridge the repair, no more.<br /><br />The easiest way to repair a larger hole in wall board:<br />1. Cut a piece of new wall board larger than the hole you want to repair.<br />2. Take your wallboard "patch and hold it over the hole. Draw the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />3. Using a drywall saw, cut out the outline of the patch on the wall.<br />4. Cut a piece of wood longer than the hole is tall, by about 4". Measure back from each end 2".<br />5. Start a drywall screw 1" above the patch outline, centered. Align the wood in the hole with the lines you made on it at 2" back from the ends. Screw the drywall screw into the wood. Do the same at the bottom. You'll want the drywall screw to be below the surface while trying not to break the paper surface of the drywall.<br />5. Fit your patching piece into the cavity, and, depending on how large the hole is screw through the patch and into the wood with one or two drywall screws.<br />5. Using self-adhesive drywall tape, tape the crack around the patch, overlapping at the corners.<br />6. Use pre-mixed drywall spackling with a 4" putty knife to apply the first coat of drywall spackling to the patch. The aim here is to secure the new drywall to the old, so you need to use the putty knife to press the spackling into the crack, and lightly coat the drywall tape. If your screws that were used to secure your wood to the back of the old drywall are outside of the tape, press the spackling into the screw dimples as well. If you hear a "ticking" sound as you pass over the screws with the spackling, the screw isn't set deep enough. Give it another turn or so, until you don't hear it tick when you pass over it with the knife. Let all of this dry for 24 hours. Clean your tools, and dry them.<br />7. The next day, sand any burrs that stick out, but sand lightly, trying to taper the patch out onto the old wall. Don't be too particular, as there is still a ways to go. Using the drywall knife and spackling, re-coat the patch, blending more onto the wall, and leaving a little more material in the mesh of the drywall tape. The cracks should be refilled, as they'll have shrunken in overnight, so this is all done at the same time. Don't over-work it, just give it a good coating, and leave it alone. The screws that you previously spackled will get another coating at this time as well. You're done for the day, clean and dry your tools.<br />8. The next day, lightly sand the burrs, again feathering a bit onto the wall. Try to remove the dust from sanding with a dry cloth, lightly brushing the patch and wall. This should be the final coat today. Lightly apply your spackling, feathering it out onto the wall. The aim here is to make the finished repair invisible to the eye, so feather out onto the wall at least the width of your blade, if possible. You can fill the screw holes again as needed, feathering the spackling out from the screw dimples onto the patch and wall. Done for the day. Clean and dry your tools.<br />9. Day 4. Sand the patch, feathering out from the patch and across the patch. It should appear relatively flat to the eye, with the cracks and screw holes filled and feathered. No tape should be sticking out. It will all appear smooth. It is ready for matching paint.<br />Hope that this was helpful.<br />Best regards, --W/D--</span>

on Feb 03, 2011 | Plumbing

2 Answers

Drying out wet drywall

I'm assuming your talking about drywall that was wet during a flood of some type? Recommend you remove all damaged drywall and using a straight edge and a utility knife this can be easily accomplished. After you cut and remove the damage, remove all screws or nails from the studs giving a good surface for the new drywall that your going to replace the damaged stuff with. Get that done and we can move onto taping and drywall compound repairs. Hope this helps.

Mar 16, 2014 | Tools & Hardware - Others

2 Answers

Water damage to ceiling

Cut off the loose make flat tape and drywall mud

Mar 06, 2014 | Drywall


Patching a hole in drywall/sheetrock

The best way to patch a hole when you don't have backing material is as follows:

Step 1: Cut the hole out square with a keyhole saw or utility knife:

Step 2: Cut a piece of drywall, (the same thickness as the wall that you are working on), to fit fairly tightly into square hole. (HINT: You don't want the patch to fit so tight that it breaks the corners when you try to put it in.) If done properly, this patch will not want to stay in the hole by itself. You must leave 1/32nd of an inch all the way around the patch. Once the patch has been properly fitted, you are now ready to start taping it in.

Step 3: Put the patch face down on the floor or table so that you can easily work on it. Using drywall mud/compound & the 5" knife, lightly mud the back side of the patch ( Place a piece of drywall tape over the patch, allowing it to hang over the edge of the patch about 1 1/2" on the top/bottom of the patch (paper tape flaps).( Holding the tape firmly against the patch, wipe down the tape with the 5" knife.

Step 4: Once the piece of tape is wiped down, you are now ready to apply mud to the section of wall where the paper tape flaps will be laying. Place the patch over the hole, tapping it into place until the patch is laying flat on the wall. Holding your fingers on the seams of the patch, wipe down the first paper flap, and then the other. (HINT: Always wipe down the top flap first, then the bottom flap. Make sure the patch is flush with the wall, or recessed slightly. If the patch is sticking out from the wall even a little bit, it will be very difficult to hide!)

Step 5: Now that the patch is in, mud the horizontal seams in, paper tape, and wipe down. Repeat the process for the vertical seams. (NOTE: You may use mesh tape on these seams if you wish because mesh is a little thinner than the paper tape; making it a little easier to cover on the next two coats. Don't make a special purchase if you don't already have some laying around, it's not worth it. ( )Let this dry for 12 hours before coating again.

Step 6: For the next coat you will need a 10 " broad knife ( Apply mud to the patch, covering the tape from the previous application.You will need to leave more mud around the outside of the patch; not too much on top of the tape. It is already going to be a little high on top of the tape so you are basically creating an optical illusion by building up around the patch. Let this coat dry 24 hours.

Step 7: If the 2nd coat was done properly, then putting a finish coat, (3rd and final coat), won't be a problem. This coat is just to fill in any low spots that you weren't able to get completely full the last coat. And if you did get it full the last time, congrats, then it is just a skim coat to fill in any air bubbles that may exist. (NOTE: Whenever patching over an already painted wall, the drywall mud/compound will bubble. This is normal. After 2nd coat of mud drys, scrape off the air bubbles before applying the next coat.) Let this coat dry for 12-24 hours

Step 8: Now the fun part begins: Use a sanding sponge or a sanding pole to sand the patch off, ( Then it is ready for paint!!

Good Luck!

If you should have any questions about"Drywall Finishing/Patching", or know someone who does, put your questions to Category:"Tools- Building & Power-HAND TOOLS" at

I will do my best to answer your questions about drywall finishing, but as you can see, just a simple patch is very involved. However, it would be best if we could speak on the PHONE or do a live CHAT. I can answer any question you have if it involves getting a wall ready for paint!


Key Words: Drywall/Sheetrock/Gypsum Wallboard, Patching, Texturing, Speckling, & Paper Tape

on Dec 01, 2009 | Hand Tools

2 Answers

How do i fix old, cracked, weter damaged walls and ceilings

You will need to figure out if moisture is from some type of plumbing leak or a leak from the exterior of the house.(roof, window, etc.). You need to fix the moisture problem first. It could lead to mold issues that could make you sick. Not to mention it will only ruin the new patch work. If the damage is only a couple of small spots in each room. You can then cut the damaged areas out and put new drywall patches in. Home Depot sells drywall in 2ftx2ft sections. Measure the damaged section. Example. damage is 2inx2in.Cut the new drywall 3inx3in. Take the 3x3 patch trace around it on top of damaged area. Take a razor knife cut around line and break out the damage area. You may have to screw wood around the inside hole. To be able to screw new patch in place. Then take mesh drywall tape around seams and then mud. Any hardware person should be able to help. If you are not comfortable doing this please call a handyman service or local contractor. Hope this helps .

Feb 22, 2014 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Can I use a plastic putty knife to tape up dry wall?

Its not recommended that you use a plastic putty knife when working with drywall. Since the plastic ones are not made for that purpose and don't hold up as well as the metal ones that are made for drywall taping.

Sep 09, 2013 | Drywall

1 Answer

How do I repair a large hole in my drywalled wall in my living room that is right beside the door frame?

If you live near a Home Depot or Lowes they sell partial sheets of drywall. Cut a square slightly larger than the damaged area from the new drywall. Trace this around the damaged area and then cut out the damaged area with a key hole saw or sawzaw or if you don't have those just your utility knife. You can probably buy all the tools and materials for a lot less than hiring someone. Since you said the hole is next to a door you shouldn't have to worry about electrical wires, but just in case, take a flashlight and look into the hole before you cut to make sure. Now you should have a hole the size and shape of the new piece you cut. The area against the door is against studs and you'll have to just keep cutting with your knife until you get through to the wood. Now, on the other side of the hole across from the door take a piece of scrap wood and put it inside the hole and press it against the inside of the wall so half the scrap wood is behind the wall and the other half is exposed in the hole. While you're holding the scrap wood you'll need to screw 1 1/4" drywall screws through the existing drywall and into the scrap wood. The scrap wood should now be tight against the back of the drywall and partially exposed to resemble the stud on the other side by the door jamb. Now you have backing for your patch. Place the patch you cut earlier in the hole and screw it in place. A screw gun or drill with #2 philips head screw tip will make this job easier. The screws should be counter sunk just slightly so the heads don't rip the paper. If you do rip the paper you'll need to put in another screw near that one or else you'll have problems later, especially near a door. Now finish the hole with joint compound. You can buy this at most hardware stores in a one gallon bucket. You'll need a role of drywall tape as well. I recommend the fiberglass mesh tape for ease. Also you'll need a taping 6" taping knife and a tray.
Fill the joint compound tray half way and mix it around with your knife until smooth. Take the fiberglass tape and stick it to the wall around the patch to cover where you cut. Spread a thick layer of joint compound over the fiberglass tape and then gently wipe it all off with one or two strokes. Repeat this until all the tape is covered with a thin layer of "mud" (joint compound). Make sure all the screw holes get filled too. Let this dry for several hours, maybe overnight. Put the excess mud back in the bucket and clean your tools. When the first coat is dry take your 6" taping knife and scrape away any blobs of mud that you left behind from the first coat and then apply a second coat. You may need a third coat. Sand the joint compound until smooth tapering the edges to the paper. Again, be careful not to sand the paper too much, you don't want to go through. If you have smooth walls, you're in luck, now just paint. If you have textured walls then you have more work. you can get spray texture in an aerosol can at the hardware store. Read the instructions on the can and practice on the left over drywall from your patch. Note: you'll never make a perfect match with this aerosol texture but you can get it close. The only way to get a perfect match is to use a compressor and and special spray gun for joint compound and it takes some practice. You can rent these things in most towns if you're very particular. Good luck

Aug 09, 2013 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Leak in the shower is leaking water through the ceiling

SInce it is wet both under and behind the shower I would rule out the drain floor pan and drain system and think it most likely to be the pipe leaking from the mixing faucets to the shower head. Find studs directly behind shower faucet, n each side. Locate the center of the studs and put vertical lines up and down on the center line of the two studs closes to but outside the shower  faucet on each side. Approximate 6 inches or so  up and down for the height of the shower faucet (Valve, not head) Put Horizontal lines across between the two line at both the top and the bottom/ You now have a square.Using a Razor knife(Sometimes called a box knife, stanley 99a for example) cut into the lines of the square back and forth as deep as you can. Cut an x  acrossthe square corner to corner again as deep as you can . Lightly hit the center of the x until the drywall caves in . Cut the remaining drywall out for the square. Now while  the shower is running you will be able to see whee the leak is. Use pipe seal after disassembling the loose fiting or repair the leak iun what ever manner is necessary. Replace and repair the hole made in the drywall  with another piece of drywall, tape and joint cement. . 

Feb 27, 2009 | Home

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