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What setting on the Pfaff Dualmatic 955/1 is needed to do Top Stitching with thicker yarn

I've tried lengthening the stitch size and unlosening the tension of the bobbin, but the yarn is continuously pulled in and broken

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bargainbox
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SOURCE: bobbin tension

If the looping is happening on the underside, it is your top tension that is to blame, conversely looping on top is bobbin tension.........take a look HERE for detail on cleaning lint buildup.

Top tension should be set around the middle of the range, usually 4 - 6.

I would not advise playing with bobbin tensions, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean the hook race area (where bobbin case sits) ...this is good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint, if there appears to be fine dirty deposits, a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit will do the trick.

Bargainbox

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

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bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: bobbin tension

This is an issue of your upper thread tension, so take a look at this generic tension solution

If you are in a pickle with your bobbin case, check top tension and bobbin case are free of lint, reset the top tension to 4, and adjust the bobbin tension to suit......some more detail on how to do that, is here

Bargain Box

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My Janome my excel 23x

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tension to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Singer CG 550 Top thread keeps wraping around the bobbin and jam

Have you checked the top thread is correctly placed in the spring of the bobbin case?

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: lost manual for pfaff tipmatic 1027 and need help

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Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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My pfaff 1475cd is missing in the bobbin stitch very slack tried a few things even got a new bobbin case machine serviced last sept bobbin chamber oiled and cleaned regularly thank you.


This looks like bird nesting (also called thread nesting) or what I refer to as thread barfs. It occurs most often when the top thread is not seated completely in the tension disk.

Remove the top thread from the machine.
ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot and rethread from the beginning.
Verify the thread path is correct.
Set the top tension to the midway point (which may need to be tweaked for your particular machine).

It may also help to pull the bobbin thread up to the top of the fabric, holding both thread tails in the left hand while hand-rotating the handwheel or slowly begin stitching with the foot control through the first couple of stitches.

Apr 25, 2017 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

12 wt thread


12 wt thread generally will not work well in the bobbin...


"Aurifil 12wt Thread
Aurifil 12 wt thread is ideal for hand quilting, big stitch hand quilting and machine quilting. 12 weight thread creates a more defined and often primitive look. It's great for designs that use a longer stitch length if using a machine. When machine quilting with 12 wt thread, use 40 wt in the bobbin, increase your stitch length, lower your tension, use Topstitch size 90 needles and stitch slowly."

May 08, 2017 | Bernina Activa 140

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The lower stitching on my machine is not consistant, why?


Wrong size needle or wrong type of thread for the weight or type of fabric. For instance, you should use smaller needle size for light weight fabrics.

Jan 15, 2013 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Irregular stitch length in machine sewing


1. Lengthen your stitch length

2. Use your even feed foot (walking foot attachment)

Nov 30, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

What are the setting for my pfaff for straight stitching


I'm sorry. We are not mind readers... please provide the MODEL NUMBER of your Pfaff.

Nov 10, 2012 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Needle continually unthreads itself


I would suggest to you to change the needle--it could be damaged
causing the thread to be cut.
also check the needle plate for burrs or sharp spots that you can feel
with your finger.

Nov 07, 2012 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I cannot get my monogrammed letters to come out clear. what am I doing wrong?


Are you using interfacing or "stich and sew" type support under the fabric?

To get a good result you need to interface the fabric, and use machine embroidery thread to get a silky look to the stitching. If you are stitching onto linen then you can use a tear away stabiliser and go for a small sized needle, probably size 70.

Some machines may have a fine "stitch density" adjustment too that will allow you to stretch or close up the stitching to finesse how it looks.

However, if it seems to be missing/not fully catching the lower thread in some stitches, then your timing may be slightly out. Will it sew a wide zig zag okay?

Timing is probably best adjusted by a technician so if you try the above and its still not looking good, then take it for a service.

Oct 10, 2011 | PfaFF Creative 7570

1 Answer

Sewing a topstitch


Top stitching is usually done with straight stitch, ie stitch width on zero and stitch length on 2.5 but it depends on the application and the effect you are trying to get. Normal top stitch is where you might be stitching a facing down on the outside of a neckline, so you might want to stitch about 5mm away from the edge of the fabric. Always stitch from the outside of the garment, the finished side so you can turn on corners and control the fabric. If you have a clear pressure foot, then this will make watching the stitching easier. Not sure what your problem is with this technique so feel free to add more in comments if I've missed something.

Oct 02, 2011 | Janome Memory Craft 5700

1 Answer

Someone gave me a Life style Pfaff sewing machine and I don't have the manual. I would like to know how to use the rolled hem foot and need to purchase a pipping foot. A foot to make pipping, 1/4 -...


I would suggest you contact Pfaff firstly to see if you can obtain a manual, its always worth having the one for your machine. I presume you are in the USA? if yes, go to www.pfaffusa.com or ring toll free 1-800-446-2333 Monday-Friday 8:00a - 4:00p CST or email info@pfaff.com
or go to www.pfaff.com then choose your own country then go to "contact us". and find the details.

Using a rolled hem foot is the same on all sewing machines, you are introducing the cut edge of the fabric into the front of the foot and it rolls the cut edge twice, as you seam over it. Its fiddly, you need a straight trimmed edge, and you have to keep the same amount going into the foot for it to work. You can either straight stitch or do a small zigzag over the fabric. Getting it started is the hardest bit because you need something through the foot to stitch on so it doesn't just get pulled into the hole on the needle plate.

try this link http://sewing.about.com/library/sewnews/library/aatech0803.htm for a bit more info on this, some machine makes sell a 2mm, 4mm or 6mm foot for different weights of fabric and finishes. You can buy accessories for your pfaff from www.sewingpartsonline.com or from Pfaff. Pfaff website even has free projects and a newsletter for customers.

Just put the foot on, lower the pressure foot onto the edge of the fabric, do a couple of straight stitches, then raise the pressure foot and pull the fabric back an inch, so you have something to hang onto at the back, then put 1/4 of fabric into the open part of the foot, hold it there, lower the pressure foot and start stitching, keep a bit of fabric turned in in front of the foot so you help it go into the foot and try to keep it a constant width, trial and error, you'll soon get the hang of it.

Piping can often be done with your zipper foot, you just want to encase the piping cord with a bias cut fabric strip and stitch as close to the edge of the cord as you can to hold it nice and tight. Then put the piping strip between two pieces of fabric and again stitch close to the cord so the first line of stitching doesn't show. Some machines, the zipper foot will have a guide so you can squeeze the cord up against the foot. Here is a link for piping techniques http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/a/covercording.htm and covering cord http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/cordingpiping.htm

Just cut the bias strip width to suit your cord width, join the bias strips together if you want lots of length, then wrap fabric around the cord, right side out, put it under the zipper foot and stitch through the fabric as close to the cord as you can, on some machines you can adjust the needle position to get close but check your manual for help on this, you don't want to strike the foot, just sew up close to it.

I haven't done double piping, but I presume you would sew two layers of piping on top of each other?

I've got a old "Sewing Soft Furnishings" text book that I found at the op shop for $2, the images are daggy but the techniques don't change, most furnishing stuff is just taking measurements, adding seam allowances, and sewing straight seams, so the machine doesn't have to be fancy, or need lots of accessories, just know-how. What you do need is a strong machine to sew upholstery fabric, many domestic machines just won't handle heavy weight fabrics too well. Large sized needles 110 size will be important too.

I'd suggest you try one of Debbie's free pillow guides as a start http://sewing.about.com/lr/free_pillow_projects/271734/4/ , go for something without a zipper at first, and once you've made a couple of easy pillows, your confidence will grow.

Good luck with your Pfaff and enjoy your sewing.

May 20, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Cording foot


a quilting bar attaches to one of the feet usually in the back and is attached by a little set screw. it is used as a guide to ride a long a previous line of stitching or a design to keep lines of stitches the same distance apart.
I'm familiar with 2 different types of cording feet. one looks like a zipper foot... very narrow and a notch on the side of the foot instead in the middle. to make cording ...fold a narrow piece of fabric in half and place yarn or cord along the inside of the fold.next place folded fabric with yarn inside under presser foot. but up the foot next to the yarn bump on the top side of folded fabric and stitch as close as possible. the second kind has a groove on the underside of the foot and the yarn bump follows this groove stitching is also done close to the yarn. some concideration in needle placement is needed depending on the thickness of the yarn or cord. always hand turn the needle up down the first few stitches to make sure the needle does not hit the foot.adjust if needed.

Apr 12, 2008 | Sewing Machines

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