Question about Heating & Cooling
Have a Payne HVAC (home) system MFG in Feb 2004 Model #PG8MAA042090 Any time the furnance comes on it starts up normally (gas comes on, preheats, then blower comes on) but after about 10-15 min the furnance turns off, even if the temp is not been reached. It then immediately goes into preheat and starts back up again. It will do this about every 1/2 hour if it is running that long (when it's cold outside and has to work to get up to temp. Any ideas what is causing this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Honeywell Gas Furnace
A Make and Model number of the furnace not the thermostat will help but I can walk you thru the operation of a typical furnace. It sounds to me that the burners are igniting properly but the flame sensor is not sensing the flame and shutting down the system. You will need to find the sensor and clean it and check the wire from it to the control board. Typically, the flame sensor is found at one side or the other of the burner box. It is a small probe that the flame hits. Depending upon your model it may have a small wire attached to it leading back to the control. Or it may be part of your auto-pilot assembly. ? At any rate, you will need to get to it and very delicately brush it off. Then inspect the flame channel. This is a trough area where the flame travels to ignite all burners. Over time, they tend to fill with rust and debris. Take a small screwdriver and run the blade down the trough. Inspect the wire that goes from the flame sensor to the control board. Make sure it is not frayed or broken or shorting out and that the connection at the board is good.
Beyond that, it's time for a technician to come.
Let us know the Make and Model of the furnace (found inside the furnace cabinet) and maybe we can help you further.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
The most common failure for this problem is either the start/run capacitor or the fan motor. IF YOU ARE NOT experienced with electricity then I would strongly suggest hiring a technician. The volts are 220 with a potential of 50 amps in a common residential unit.
If you are knowledgeable in this area then make sure the motor has volts to it. If it does have volts and does not spin, it is bad. You can sometimes tell by feeling the motor it will probably be very hot. The compressor will eventually shut itself off when it over heats. It usually will restart after it cools down(sometimes many hours). The motor and capacitor are pretty generic and can be matched up at a local Grainger store or whatever Retail, specialty store that you have in your area.
I hope this helps:)
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
check to see if your intake pipe or vent is clear this could cause a flame jump and make it look like a bad flame sensor let me know if this helps
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
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