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John, as you know air flow and CFM of the air is what makes the vacuum work. There is rubber seals or gaskets all along the air way to keep the air moving from the floor through the vacuum motor. You need to be sure a gasket has not wore out and allowing the vacuum air to escape. The vacuum motor must have a place exhaust the used vacuum and that pathway also has seals to insure it leaves the machine at the place the engineer who designed the machine wanted to go. Check for worn seals/gaskets in both incoming and outgoing airways. D&R Services, Inc.
Try the following suggestions to see if you can get your machine suctioning properly:
1) Remove the Tank-in-Tank Assembly and place your hand over the motor intake valve. This valve is located next to the Floor Nozzle gasket (at the top of the Floor Nozzle window) and behind the SmartMix Bottle. If you feel vacuum-like suction at this area, your suction power of the unit is working but air is escaping at some point. If there is no suction at the motor intake valve your machine will need to be inspected by an Authorized Service Center Technician.
2) It is possible the Floor Nozzle on your machine is inserted incorrectly. This would directly affect the suction of your machine. Please follow the directions below for removing and replacing the nozzle.
Before starting, please be sure the machine is unplugged and the machine handle is reclined.
To remove the Floor Nozzle window, first detach the Phillips head screws located at the base of the nozzle. Then, remove the Tank-in-Tank Assembly. Next, pull forward at the top of the Floor Nozzle window to release the tabs of this window from the receiving holes of the machine. This window is designed to allow access for cleaning.
When replacing the Floor Nozzle window, please be sure the tabs at the TOP of the nozzle are properly inserted into the receiving holes provided. If you do not have the tabs in place properly, the suction power of the machine could be affected.
Rotate the window down into place and replace the screws.
3) Ensure that the Ready Tools knob (diverter knob) is in the proper setting and the valve opens and closes freely. Ensure the black foam gasket is in place under the valve.
4) Check to ensure the Tank-in-Tank assembly is seated properly and that it is not full of dirty water. (If this tank has a drain cap, make sure it is in place and that it has a black o-ring).
5) Check the float and baffle to ensure they are properly installed on the Tank-in-Tank. The larger square portion of this part should be below the clear baffle of the tank with the red flag portion of the float resting on top of the baffle.
6) Check the Tank-in-Tank and lid for damage. Is the lint screen clogged? Make sure the lint screen is in place on the tank lid and not placed into the motor duct. Also, clear the holes on the lint screen.
7) Check to see if the upholstery hose has suction. If the hose has suction and the floor nozzle does not, check the diverter valve to see if it opens and closes freely. This can be seen through the Floor Nozzle window as you switch the diverter knob from the floor to tools setting.
So I have exactly the opposite problem, it sucks in floor mode but the hand held has zero suction. My daughter and i just spent the last hour disassembling and diagnosing and found this: The way the suction tube is configured, you have two places to **** from, the floor and the hand held hose. If you look at the back of the machine, you can see the "y" where the two hoses join. just behind the beater bar there is a blast gate that closes when you stand the machine upright. This closes the blast gate and directs full sution to the hand hose. In floor mode as the handle tips back, a follower wheel and spring move the blast gate to open. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT PART...if the hose is not docked, there is a second place for the suction to go and you will get no suction at the floor. In my case, the center post where the spring mounts is broken and the blast gate flap does not close, so the hand hose gets no suction because it is like a straw with a hole in it, the air will seek the least resistance. In your case you either have not returned the hose to the docking port or your blast gate is stuck in the closed position. To check this remove the two screws and clamp that secure the lower hose to the suction manifold. Pull the hose stright an look inside to see if the blast gate is open or closed. Use the release pedal to cycle the machine between upright and floor mode and you should see the blast gate open and close. If you don't, well that's a whole other story. I'm off to see if I can find a replacement part at repairclinic.com. If not I will have to get some polyester epoxy and fix it myself.
Above the clear bin (canister) is the cyclone, and on top of that there's a handle. The whole bin-plus-cyclone assembly is released from the rest of the machine by grasping the handle and releasing the button that is on top of the handle where your thumb naturally falls. The trigger on the underside of the same handle releases the base of the bin (on a hinge) so the waste falls out.
You need to be careful not to squeeze that trigger until the bin is wherever you want to get rid of the waste, or else you'll end up with it all back on the floor!
You can empty the waste directly into a trash can, or enclose the bin in a plastic waste bag before releasing the waste. After, make sure the base is properly re-secured before re-fitting the bin to the machine. You can wipe the outside of the bin with a damp cloth. If you wipe the inside (not necessary, but sometimes nice) make sure it is completely dry before closing the base.
I hope this helps. I value your feedback, so please remember to rate this response.
You have to open the entire mid section of the vacuum. There is about 8-10 screws to remove. I would inspect for clogs in all tube sections prior to opening. I've opened my vacuum many times it's not terribily difficult just be careful to not disturb the wire routes or pinch them when closing the vacuum back up.
I just fixed this on my Bissell PowerForce model #6594 vacuum myself. Woo Hoo for me. :-)
I called the local vacuum repair guy and he told me he'd repair it for me if I insisted but that since my machine only cost about $80 (a lot of money for me) it would not be worth the $40-$50 repair. I should just buy a new vacuum (from him I assume).
My machine works great so I sat down on the floor and after removing 5 screws and a little tinkering I got my machine apart. I had to take the brush and belt area off and then the upright part came off the base. Make sure you unplug your unit before working on it.
Next I could see where the Handle Release Pedal (HRP) on the bottom of the unit had been cracked. It's a molded piece that has a slight curve in it that allows it to spring back into position to hold the vacuum in the upright position or to keep the vacuum from going totally flat.
How it was installed I don't think they meant for it to be easily replaced but after using a screw driver on one side and a letter opener on the skinnier side I pried the molded houseing out from around the HRP just enough to let the it release. I did need a third hand for that part.