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Makita LXFD01 18v cordless drill stopped working, trigger lights the LED but there is no motor action. Any way to test the switch? Other ideas?

My Makita 18V cordless drill stopped working, worked fine, now nothing. Pushing the trigger lights up the LED but there is no motor action. Brushes look good, cleaned the armature and no change. Is there a way to test the switch unit?

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: chuck change

After removing the screw and inserting the allen wrench shift the drill to the LOW position and turn the clutch to the drill only position. Use an allen wrench about the size of the chuck capacity so that it will not flex when hitting it with a mallet. Sometimes they are stubborn because of the torque but this should work. Put the allen wrench at about a 30deg angle and hit the wrench. I support the chuck on a workbench or a block of wood will do fine. The chuck has standard threads.

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: makita cordless driver drill model-6347d.

You say will not stay charged? Over what time period? Are you aware Nicad and NiMh rechargeables discharge naturally at 1% per day so where does that leave your power tool after 3 months? Furthermore they only have around 1000 charges in their useful life so you can immediately see how these tools are not for intermittent(ie handyman) use.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Makita 18v Lithium-Ion BL1830 Battery Won't Charge

If you have been a bad boy and managed to short the battery by using it for non-proscribed purposes, the fusible link will blow (kind of like a fuse) To fix it, open up the battery (use a Torx 10 security bit, or a small flathead in a pinch) On the battery connection nearest the spring-loaded white catch there is a small bridge of metal with a hole in the center. If this is melted you can solder it back together by sanding the two pieces and putting a glob of solder on them. This will void your warranty (duh!) and remove the battery's fuse protection, but it WILL work again. If the link is intact and nothing else is obviously wrong, you almost certainly have a bad cell. I recommend pulling out the bad cell ( it will be the one that does not read between 2.5 - 4 vdc) and replacing it with one from another dud battery- this requires some fudging and re-soldering. Or do what I did, pull the cell, toss the electronics and the short pink wire, add a cigarette lighter socket and voila! you have a portable power supply giving around 14 volts. Charge it up by wiring two cigarette lighter male ends together (check polarity , + to + and - to -) and plug it into your car, but only while it is running or you will be charging your car battery with it! Hope that helps.
Matt Binns GiantGlobes.com

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: my chuck is broke , on my 18v makita cordless

Put the chuck key on and strike it with a hammer counter clockwise. the chuck key must be properly seated in the hole. Once the chuck is brokrn free, you can unscrew it my hand. Buy a new chuck an screw it in olace and againm strike the key but no as hard clockwise. It will self tighten more as it is used, Good Luck-Ned-

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

  • 90 Answers

SOURCE: Motor fails to run when trigger depressed

sounds like your armature and field is burnt. once they have both got hot you need to replace the armature and field as well as the brushes and holders.

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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