Kitchen sink is all the way across the house from the water heater. Takes forever to get hot water. Put this unit under sink to cure wait. Water gets hot quickly, but after running water for a couple of minutes it is just tepid. Have reduced flow aerator to keep max flow rate in limits. Instructions say it can't be hooked into the hot water line. Why? Seems like that would cure both my problems. Unit will heat up water cooled in piping from water heater and than I get heated water from tank.
Apparently the software in the brain of the unit is not capable to modulate for smaller heat need and it trigger off the unit when it only need less the 20F temp increase . That is a lack of engineering in the brand unit, and really can not be "fix"
Are you using a single lever faucet? The install guide does indicate that you may need to reduce the input from the cold water side to ensure that water stays at a consistent temperature (see page 7 of the installation and service manual). Also, remember, this is a SMALL hot water heater. So if you're running for any length of time at full output, it may not keep up with you (see page 8 of the service an installation manual). I found the manual online at http://www.airwater.biz/images_templ/bosch-water-heaters-ae3.4-manual.pdf.
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It should be producing hot water at the temp it was set at such as 120-140 degrees. If it is exceeding this one of the safety devices maybe disconnecting it. Thermal control might need some servicing. See what temp it's set at then put a thermometer on a near water outlet to see what's going on. Good luck.
What happened to the screws from the old terminal strip? If it is a different size you need to drill new small holes in the box (not the tank or pipes) and attach it with self tapping screws. Make sure each wire of the unit matches the same wire being connected as the original connections.
Since you have hot water at all the other fixtures, the problem lies in the sink, not the water heater. It could be that the sink is farther away from the water heater than the other fixtures. It would take longer to get hot water.
Tankless heater are a little frustrating sometimes but this is generally an issue of waterflow I believe. The fluctuations are do probably to the amount of water and rate of water going through the heater. If you have a shut off valve on the cold side of the heater, shut it back about half way. This will slow the water going through the heater and allow the heater to heat it up more efficiently. Then go to the shower, turn the hot on all the way (no cold) and allow it to heat up. Once it has heated up, test it by hand for a good temperature that you like. If it is too hot, turn the cold on just a bit until it comes to the temp you like. If it is too cold turn the hot down just a little (still no cold) and it will warm up. Ideally you should be able to turn the hot on full blast and then just turn on a little cold to get the right temp. Once you learn how these work then it makes it easier. You really cant run the water like you do with conventional hot water systems and expect to get the same results. Also, wanted to give you another little tip. Every 6 mos to a year, you should flush you heater with vinegar for about 30-45 minutes using a small cheap submerible pump like for a water feature in a garde. Just put in a bucket of vinegar and and run a hose to the "in" side of the heater and another from the "out' side of the heater and then back into the bucket. This will circulate the vinegar inside the heater and clean all the deposits that will DOA your heater. Funny how the manufacturer wont tell you this but these deposits will ruin the connectiosn on the heating elements. You can make your heater last for a long time if you do this.
it sounds like 1(or more) of the motorised valves arent working.find the valve and make sure you are getting power to it via a tester,if so then it probably needs the head on the motorised valve changed
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?