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Smokeing wire, heat surge, in control box. how do i get in and find wire to replace it. thank u M

Turns on, light and flame work, turn heat on starts smoking from fan vent. smells like burning wire.

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  • Dryers Master
  • 1,669 Answers

First...TURN OFF THE BREAKER IN YOUR HOME CIRCUIT BOX!!! Then you can work safely... If this is a clothes dryer (you never confirmed that nor did you give the manufacturer or model) you need to remove the panel at the back and look in at all of the controls and their wires. Change out any wires or controls that look cooked.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: dryer smelled of burning plastic, smoked stopped turning on

check the power cord itself, if you see on the back side of the cord a burnt or blackened spot then the cord is the issue

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Burning smell

you can unplug the unit , and reomve the lower aces panel (3 screws along the front bottom of unit) youll probalby see an excess of lint built up in which case you can vacuum it out, and then check/clean and or replace your dryer vent

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

  • 3422 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet dryer smells like smoke from back vent in dryer

HI,

It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.


Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.

It overheats Usually when an electric dryer overheats it's because of a defective cycling thermostat or a clogged vent system. Clean any lint from the internal and external ductwork, and/or replace the cycling thermostat (read about cycling thermostats in "Drying is too slow," above).

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Smells like it's burning and smoke coming out of chimney vent

Get the filter housing out of the machine and wash it out. Blow out the blowers housing. Change the control thermostat.It mounts right next to the fuse on the back:
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Posted on Dec 16, 2008

Greg20
  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: dryer turns no heat and can smell gas

airflow through the tube keeps the sensors from tripping. low flow, quick cycle. when its all together, does it blow out back strong? is the blower stripped? gas keeps coming out scares me..what do you mean?

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

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Frigidaire FDG36RES2 Gas Dryer Stops Heating


Instructions
    • 1 Open the cabinet beneath the kitchen sink and remove the contents. Turn the hot and cold water supply valves off.
    • 2 Turn off the power to the breaker controlling the garbage disposal switch from your breaker box.
    • 3 Place a pan beneath your old disposal. Use the pipe wrench to remove the old disposal's plastic outflow pipe from the U-shaped outflow drain.
    • 4 Use a screwdriver to remove the plate on the bottom of your old disposal. Disconnect the wiring with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
    • 5 Spin the old disposal counterclockwise inside its mounting bracket until it comes free.
    • 6 Line up the new disposal with the mounting bracket and slip it up and onto the mounting bracket. Twist it to the right to tighten it into place.
    • 7 Remove the screw holding the wiring plate at the bottom of the new disposal. Once you have removed the plate, connect the ground wire to the ground nut. Connect the positive wire to the positive wire terminal inside the disposal. Once these wires are connected, put the wiring cover and retaining screw back into place.
    • 8 Use the pipe wrench to attach the outflow pipe to the rear of the disposal.
    • 9 Turn the water and electricity back on and test the new disposal.

Jan 09, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Coleman heater 3500a820 lots of smoke and now only blower works no heat


I am not sure about the heater type, but likely the heater element controller shorted out or the heater elements shorted - hence the black around where the wires go into the electric box. If you're lucky, the wires shorted to the side of the box. With the power off, open up the electrical box, mark which wires go where, remove them from the board, remove the wires from the electric box, then using electrical tape, tape up the exposed ends of the wires. Spread them out so they do not touch each other. Turn on the 60 amp breaker - if it trips, then your wires are bad and need replaced. If it does not trip, then the problem is with the heater. Do not let anyone near the wires when testing them! Don't forget to turn off the breaker if it does not trip. Again, turn off the breaker if it did not trip.

Oct 18, 2012 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an Evcon hot surface ignition furnace and can not get the heat to come on .I set my thermostat on desired temp and starts running,but the blower wont come on,on auto I have to switch to the on...


Troubleshooting and Repair
Furnaces with electronic ignition systems may be much more efficient than their early counterparts, but they do it largely through electronics. However, there are still some troubleshooting you can do but fixing the problems can involve replacement of parts more so than repair or adjustment. PROBLEM: Furnace burner will not ignite
Possible Solution
  • With a Hot Surface Ignition (HSI) system, if a gas hissing sound is heard for about 7-10 seconds and the burners do not ignite, the furnace will go into lockout mode.
  • To reset turn the furnace power switch off and back on and try again. The switch is probably located on the side of the furnace. A reset button may also be found on the solid state controller. If resetting fails again, proceed as follows.
  • Turn off power and gas to the furnace
  • Remove and check hot surface igniter being careful not to touch the heat element. If it is cracked or damaged, replace the igniter.
      PROBLEM: Furnace comes on for 7-10 seconds then turns off Possible Solution:
      • Turn off power and gas to the furnace
      • Remove flame sensor from its bracket. Lightly clean the surface with fine emery cloth and replace.
      • The problem may also lie in a bad ground or the the black and white wires being reversed (reversed polarity) at the junction box or outlet powering the furnace.
      • The electronic ignition control module must ensure current flow through the flame sensor to ground and if the polarity is reversed in the circuit there is no voltage potential and the flame sensor does not work and closes the gas valve.
      • If the black and white wires are connected correctly and the flame still drops out, then the issue may be a bad ground. Using a volt-ohm meter, measure between the white wire and the ground wire to be sure you have no voltage.

Nov 01, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a honeywell gas heater hanging from the ceiling in my shop Model # uhpa175ae-3 Serial # 6396j03508 The exhaust fan starts, the flame lights and finally the main fan kicks in. Quite often, as soon...


HI clean the flame sensor check out the pressure switch jump this out to see if it lights clean sensor on fan control might be dirty clean heater with air line burners heat exchanger then it might be your limit switch but this help doing this other work first

Feb 01, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an intertherm gas furnace and it will turn on but it takse almost an hour from the time i turn the heat up until it kicks on. I can hear the click and it sounds like the motor is humming. I have...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 23, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 06, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Will not heat up a room no matter how high i turn the temperature. I ve tried different modes overrides etc... nothing makes the heat just turn on.


If you are referring to the thermostat, try jumping the R and W wires together. If it starts, replace the thermostat. If not, go to the furnace and jump the R and W terminals on the circuit board. You may need to tape the door safety switch closed. If it starts, you have a bad thermostat wire. If not, check out the sequence of operation as below.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 03, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Flame goes out when fan kicks on


If the flame lights all the burners within 2 seconds but does not stay on, you may need to clean the flame rod found at the farthest end of the burner box. It will be located at the end of the box that lights last. It will be a probe that is in the flame of the last burner. If it has carbon on it or scale, take an old tooth brush and scrub it. Check the wire connected to it and follow that wire back to the circuit board and check that connection.

Dec 11, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Kenmore gas oven model no. 273 3248296 pilot free ignition wont fire up


Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Oven lights on low flame but will not come up on high flame .cannon chester cooker.suspect by pass is not working. Do I need control knob/thermostat with the phial. Thanking you.


all gas range ovens have a small metal box in the back upper area of the broiler burner; a gas line runs into this box as do two wires; this is a "flame control " gas valve; the way it works is: after the pilot has been lit as you turn the oven temp control a heating element in the box causes a small valve to open allowing a larger amount of gas into the oven burner to ignite the whole burner If you can only get pilot flame on high replace this valve

Apr 26, 2009 | Ovens

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