Question about Frigidaire Gallery GLHS66EJ Side by Side Refrigerator
Everything was fine. no issues . went out came home freidge dead. looked like it was not getting power. checked the outlet and it was fine.
Change out the defrost control and cold/temp controls.
See a similar schematic at:
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a frigidaire gallery
I THINK THE BUZZING IS THE COMPRESSOR TRYING TO START,ALSO LOOK ON THE BACK OF FREEZER AND SEE IF THE WALL HAS FROST ON IT,IF IT DOES YOU HAVE A BAD DEFROST HEATER OR TERMINATOR OR IT IS STUCK IN DEFROST,LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU KIND,ALSO YOU SHOULD UNPLUG IF YOU FIND THE COMPRESSOR IS TRYING TO START BUT WILL NOT,PULL OUT FRIG. AND SEE IF YOU HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND,ALSO PUT HAND ON COMP. TO FEEL IF RUNNING,BECAREFUL MIGHT BE HOT
Posted on May 30, 2008
check to make sure there is nothing blocking the water lines and no kinks in the water lines, you did not say if it had an ice maker, and if it is affected.
The frigidaires also has a plastic tube coiled under the back to dispense cold water make sure this tube is not kinked.
Hope this helps
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
SOURCE: Not Cold Frigidaire GS26HSZCC7
Water can leak from these areas:
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section of our website).
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.
The back of the refrigerator Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.
Here's what to do:
The inside back wall of the refrigerator In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.
Underneath the front of the refrigerator If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
you have a defrost problem or damper problem or evapator fan
1) Check the fan in the freezer is running
2) defrost the freezer (leave unpluged with door open for 24 to 48 hrs or untill it stops leaking water...
3) check the damper make sure it is opening and cold air is blowing
How you need to repair what defrost part failed
The defrost systems is:
Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
Posted on Jul 25, 2008
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:
Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.
Step 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.
Step 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.
Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.
To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 05, 2014 | Frigidaire Dishwashers
Oct 29, 2013 | Frigidaire Microwave Ovens
Jan 16, 2013 | Frigidaire Refrigerators
Jun 12, 2011 | Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36"...
Jul 12, 2010 | Sony Computers & Internet
Oct 08, 2009 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer
Jan 28, 2009 | HP Officejet Pro L7780 All-In-One InkJet...
May 26, 2017 | Frigidaire GS26HSZDW Side by Side...
Nov 01, 2008 | Frigidaire FGB24S5A Gas Single Oven
May 31, 2012 | Frigidaire Gallery GLHS66EJ Side by Side...
449 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: