Question about Frigidaire Gallery GLHS66EJ Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

My 15 month old frigidaire gallery just died totally today without warning. power outlet is ok . any ideas as the warranty is out model #4A11007114..

Everything was fine. no issues . went out came home freidge dead. looked like it was not getting power. checked the outlet and it was fine.

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  • Master
  • 1,669 Answers

Change out the defrost control and cold/temp controls.
See a similar schematic at:

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Frigidaire/ZLHFL7NU.gif

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: I have a frigidaire gallery

I THINK THE BUZZING IS THE COMPRESSOR TRYING TO START,ALSO LOOK ON THE BACK OF FREEZER AND SEE IF THE WALL HAS FROST ON IT,IF IT DOES YOU HAVE A BAD DEFROST HEATER OR TERMINATOR OR IT IS STUCK IN DEFROST,LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU KIND,ALSO YOU SHOULD UNPLUG IF YOU FIND THE COMPRESSOR IS TRYING TO START BUT WILL NOT,PULL OUT FRIG. AND SEE IF YOU HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND,ALSO PUT HAND ON COMP. TO FEEL IF RUNNING,BECAREFUL MIGHT BE HOT

Posted on May 30, 2008

sandy_s
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Gallery Series M# GLHS36EESB5

check to make sure there is nothing blocking the water lines and no kinks in the water lines, you did not say if it had an ice maker, and if it is affected.
The frigidaires also has a plastic tube coiled under the back to dispense cold water make sure this tube is not kinked.
Hope this helps

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

  • 3422 Answers

SOURCE: Not Cold Frigidaire GS26HSZCC7

Hi,

Water can leak from these areas:

The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section of our website).

If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.

In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.

Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.

The back of the refrigerator Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.

Here's what to do:

  • If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make sure the water tubes are attached properly and are fastened tightly.


  • If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself, replace the valve.


  • If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect for holes or cracks, and replace the pan if necessary.


The inside ceiling of the refrigerator Water accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and cause condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove the entire freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in the divider. Occasionally the insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. This can be a big job – you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

The inside back wall of the refrigerator In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.

Underneath the front of the refrigerator If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

Krazytech
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Gallery FRS26ZGEB - 12 years old

you have a defrost problem or damper problem or evapator fan

1) Check the fan in the freezer is running

2) defrost the freezer (leave unpluged with door open for 24 to 48 hrs or untill it stops leaking water...


3) check the damper make sure it is opening and cold air is blowing

How you need to repair what defrost part failed
The defrost systems is:
218169802 HEATER-DEFROST
5303917954 THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
5303917954 TIMER-DEFROST

Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

abhishek33
  • 1239 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge stopped working, freezer still works

HI
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:

Step 1: 
Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: 
Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3: 
Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: 
Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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