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Kenmore model 363.5806 2896

The evaperator coils are all frozen and frosted up, really bad. this is causing the temp to go up in the fridge and freezer. im wondering how to fix this problem. Im wondering what the problem might be and how to fix it?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore sideby side fridge

You have a defrost system problem. Defrost is controlled by a timer which energizes the heater circuit. The heater circuit has a radiant or cal rod type heater which melts the frost from the coil. When the coil reaches a temperature where all ice would be gone a termination switch opens and shuts of the heater. The timer will continue to run until defrost time expires (18-22 minutes).

If you can locate the timer there is a clutch head screw to advance the timer to the defrost position. Turn the screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The heaters should come on and defrost take place. If the unit restarts after the 18-22 minute period the timer is good, if it does not restart advance the screw to a second audible click and it will restart.
If you had to turn the timer the to second click to get it started cooling replace the timer.

If the unit restarted after the 18-22 minutes and defrost did not happen your problem is in the heater circuit. This would be an open heater or bad defrost terminator switch. To access the heater and defrost terminator the back panel in the freezer section must be removed. With an Ohm meter you can check the heater to see if it is good.

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

SOURCE: KENMORE MODEL 596 BOTTOM FREEZER, FRIDGE NOT COOLING

first off unplug ref and melt the ice with a blow dryer.then check your defrost circuit,it is easier to check with the ice gone.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: defrost timer location on Kenmore model 106.56542400

carry control board part#2149705

Posted on Apr 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Water dripping from top of fridge (coil housing?) under freezer.

I HAD LEFT THE DOOR AJAR ON MY KENMORE DPOUBLE DOOR WITH TOP FREEZER AND IT FROZE UP NOT ALLOWING THE WATER FROM THE NORMAL AUTOMATIC DEFROSTING PROCESS TO GO DOWN THROUGH ITS NORMAL DRAIN. THE ACCUMULATED WATER THEN DRIPPED INTO THE REFRIGERATOR UNDER THE FREEZER AND HAD TO BE SOAKED UP DAILY. THE SOLUTION--I REMOVED THE ADJUSTABLE
THATBOTTOM PLATE HAD AN UPWARD CURVED PORTION AT THE REAR. WHEN RE-MOVED, YOU COULD SEE FROZEN ICE ACROSS THE BACK UNDER THE VERTICAL COVER THAT COVERS COILS(?).
IN THE FAR BACK BOTTOM THERE WAS A FULL LENGTH, APPROX 1 1/2" WIDE DRAIN AREA WITH A HOLE IN THE CENTER THAT WAS PLUGGED WITH ICE.THAT WAS PREVENTING THE NORMAL DRAINING PROCESS.
A HAIR DRYER AND ABOUT 15 MINUTES MELTED THE PLUG, I THEN POURED A GLASS OF HOT WATER INTO THE HOLE AND IT DRAINED RIGHT DOWN LIKE IT SHOULD.
I HAD THE SAME FREEZE UP & DRIPPING PROBLEM A COUPLE YEARS AGO AND IT COST ME $100 FOR A SERVICE MAN TO FIX IT BUT IT'S REALLY A SIMPLE PROCESS TO FIX.

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 572 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Coldspot model 106 - Snowing in freezer!

its not defrosting. check heater operations. bimetal near heater. check defrost timer

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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I have a GE Side by side Fridge with model #TFX27PFSM WW and the coils were completely frozen. I used the hair dryer on them and thawed them out. As soon as I plugged the fridge back in, they immediately...


Hello,

Its normal for the evaperator coil in the freezer to have frost on it that is a sign of a heallthy good working compressor...WHEN IT BUILDS UP SO THICK their is no gaps in the coil and its just one huge iceblock that is where the problem lays. Thier is a automatic defrost system that is supposed to periodically come on and melt the frost and a component from it has failed allowing the frost to build up so thick it has restricted airflow through it.

The most probable problem is going to be a bad defrost heater it by far is the leading problem when a GE brand ref.doesnt automatically defrost.

This tip i wrote explains how to check and see why its not automatically defrosting
http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10097882-wrong_when_freezer_frosted_refrig_warm


GENE

Sep 24, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have an 18.4 frost proof, fridge, and the freezer is cold, but the the fridge is not cool. I moved it out and can't see where there might be a problem. I turned the switch to colder, and still it is...


Is the fan in the freezer working? If not, after disconnecting power. Remove back cover in freezer section. Check if fan blade will turn. If not, bad fan motor. If it will, check voltage to fan. If voltage is present, bad fan motor. No voltage check wiring. A bad defrost timer will cause a no voltage problem. With cover still off. Is evaperator frozen up. If so this will cause resticted air flow to fresh food section. Not defrosting. On these units for a defrost issue. Bad defrost timer, Plug to heater on right side of evaperator not fully seated. Defrost thermostat on right side.Check for continuity when cold. And of course defrost heater. Check for continuity. All common for this unit. Good luck. Be safe.

Mar 28, 2011 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Model: 253-54743301 Kenmore Refrigerator\r\nlost cooling in both Refrigerator and Freezer


Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm





Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.

Jan 07, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore bottom fridge model #596.69274991. Although things are cold and frozen, the room temp is only 70 degree but it seem to run for well over an hour although there has not been much opening...


Tom, you pretty much have it all covered. Make sure both the freezer fan and the fan under the fridge are both running and keep your eye on the inside back wall of the freezer compartment fro any signs of frost build up (possible defrost problem).
Good luck!

Jun 12, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Freezer gets 10 below 0 and fridge is 60 degrees


Check and clean the condensor coils. Make sure the air ducts are free f frost and not blocked by anything. Make sure the light is turning off when the door is closed.
Eric

Sep 28, 2009 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

I am also getting massive frost build up on the freezer side


depending on the model, 1-5 years. 5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 11, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge has problems


sounds like the defrost clock may be going bad and or a door switch. Look for a hole that has whatr looks like a big screw that you can turn.

Oct 21, 2008 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

1 Answer

My Kenmore Fridge (bottom freezer type) not freezing


Look for problems you can see. Check for frost on the back wall of the freezer, If you find frost on the back wall locate the defrost timer and rotate the clutch head screw clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one click. With the timer now in the defrost position you will hear sounds in the freezer compartment such as expansion, sizzling, after a few minutes. If after say 25-30 minutes the system does not return to cooling mode ( Compressor starting) rotate the timer again SLOWLY until you hear a second click. This would indicate a bad defrost timer. If you get no defrost your problem could be a defect in the heater circuit such as an open heater or defrost thermostat. Normal defrost time would be 18-22 minutes.

May 20, 2008 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

Fridge problem


you have a defrostion issue reed to remove the back panel in the freezer behind this panel is the evaperator coil needs to be melted down because it is full of ice and frost, ahair drier will work well,put several towells down under the bottom of the evaperator to catch water runoff, after defrosting the coil inspect the defrost heater or heaters some of these can have one or two heaters the heaters are located behind metal gaurds in the evaperator if either of the heaters are bad (both)need to be replaced, if they show good then bad defrost timer or bad defrost termination thermastat wiring diagram behind frount bottom grill

Apr 12, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frige problem


This is almost a word for word common problem. On frost free fridge freezers of this type all cooling is generated through the freezer side and is merely forced into the fridge side through airflow. Therefore if you have a problem with the fridge you have a problem with the freezer section. The most likely cause is that the coil is frozen up. We would always suggest defrosting unit overnight in case it was simply a door left ajar being the cause of the fault. If the unit then pulls the fridge temp down and it was not the door ajar then you probably have a defrost problem (heater or defrost thermostat, or defrost timer). If it fails to pull the fridge temp down on restarting then it could be the fan or part of the defrost circuit or even possible the cooling circuit. The normal outcome after defrosting is that the temp will drop in the fridge due to air circulation improved, which will probably remain cool for 2-3 weeks until the coil becomes frozen again. On either result I would contact an engineer on the 2nd failure occurrs so that the engineer can establish the exact cause. Hope this helps.

Aug 13, 2007 | Maytag MZD2768G Side by Side Refrigerator

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