Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
I have a Kenmore range oven, model 362.75576691. When the oven is on, especially as it is heating up, I keep hearing a "poof" noise coming from the oven, like there is a delay in the firing. What could this be? Is it a burner in the oven that needs to be replaced?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
its possible your gas regulator is bad or the gas line to the ignitor is stopped up look at the line and see if some type of food has blocked the outlet
Posted on Dec 08, 2007
bad oven ignitor is the most common cause of bake failure, located onthe side of hte burner bar itself, if youd like with a multi-meter, you can check the wires leading to the ignitor for 110v. if you have power and nothing was glowing from ignitor theres your problem
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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Posted on Jan 29, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
You need to order parts from AVANTI.
Very disappointing customer service.
I have been waiting 6 weeks for a new thermostat. It will not
arrive from China until June -- I was originally told it would come in April. All AVANTI parts are from China and AVANTI in Florida is the
only dealer. I will never buy AVANTI again.
Posted on May 05, 2009
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The igniter is probally on it's way out. You will likely start noticing it taking longer to cook or not reaching temp easily. The poof is the gas valve partially opening then the igniter finally ignites it. The flame is usually smaller or yellower.
The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.
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