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Attach edge guide onto skill jigsaw - Craftsman 680915001 Edge Guide

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I don't know why they even provide edge guides with jig saws, they don't work worth a flip. The problem is that, unlike a circular saw, the direction of cut is unlikely to be 90 degrees from the direction of the mounted edge guide. The blade mounting is not made to ensure that the blade is held exactly straight. When you follow a straight line with your cut you will see that the body of the saw will probably crab a bit sideways like a car that badly needs a wheel alignment. I suppose the edge guide can work on 1/4 inch plywood with an aggressive blade, but that will give you a very rough cut. Much better to draw the line and just follow it visually. If you need to do a lot of this, and you want a nice straight line, use a circular saw. Good luck.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I can not find my instructions for the Dewalt321 jigsaw so i therefore cannot replace a blade that fell out


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You will need two C clamps and a straight edge,I use a metal yard stick.Whatever you use look down the edge a make sure it's true.

Set up on the line and make sure the blade is going to cut on the waste side of the line.Measure the distance from the edge of the wood to the other side of the jigsaw glide plate and make a mark.Transfer the measurement to the other end.I move the blade up just above the surface so I can set the jig saw on the wood while I get the measurements.The last step is to clamp the straight edge down.Make sure to have the clamps with the handles down.Check under to make sure you won't run into any thing and do a dry run to check for cord hang ups.This is the best way as long as you keep the edge of the bottom jig saw plate against the straight edge.^^^^ Well that's how I do it. good luck

You can all so use the T bar attachment that slides through the bottom plate and clamps down with thumb screws.Personally I like the straight edge.

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1 Answer

This jigsaw seems to suffer from the same problem as its predecessor. Whenever i use it to cut through a kitchen worktop or any material it never gives a straight vertical cut through the material but...


I can't speak to the diffuculty you're having with that particular model, as I haven't used it. But in general, the stability of the cut depends upon the guide mechanism of the saw, and a three point guide is better than two point or single point. A three point guide assemble will hold the blade firmly locked when inserted into the column, will have a roller bearing that supports the center of the blade path, and will also have a finger pinching mechanism at the base near the material, so the blade can't waffle in the cut. Aside from changing saws, all I can recommend is that you make sure the base is correctly locked in place at an angle square to the blade, when fully extended. Check this with a small trysquare against the base, and look from both sides of the blade. Some folks will even attach an auxiliary base to stiffen theirs up, though this shouldn't be necessary. Then make sure you're using a sharp blade with the correct tooth count for the material you're cutting, and don't force the cut. Let the saw do the work, and make sure you hold the base firmly against the worktop as you cut. If you force a cut with the orbital action on full, you'll get more deflection.
Other than that, all I can say is that I've had good luck with the newer Bosch jigsaws, and the best cut I know of comes from the Festo, but we're talking serious dollars there.
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I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

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