Question about Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

Lexmark 4039 lazer printer will not start

Checked (ohmmeter)110v line into printed circuit board, main switch ok (four terminals).
Is there a cutoff switch or sensor that would cause this problem. Do not have manuel.
Machine is completely dead, will not "boot up" for screen.

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There will be a tube type fuse in pcb check the connectivity if dead replace the same

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a Frigidaire front load washer model numberFafs4073nwo I do have power going to the machine but I have no lights on console completely dead


WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.





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25692185-qwraf2tofhw5f1pyjgshzkpc-5-54.jpg The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors:

1.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Start Winding

4.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor.

5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor.

6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms.

7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

High Winding

8.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms.

11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15:

Low Winding

16.
touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27:

Ex-Low Winding

28.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms.

55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short):

56.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing.

57.
One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor.

58.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.





May 12, 2015 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

1 Answer

NO LIGHTS AND NOT WORKING


WASHER WILL NOT START: SEE PICS AT BOTTOM...

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.

The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors:

1.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Start Winding

4.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor.

5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor.

6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms.

7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

High Winding

8.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms.

11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15:

Low Winding

16.
touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27:

Ex-Low Winding

28.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms.

55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short):

56.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing.

57.
One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor.

58.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.








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Apr 01, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Dryer will not start


WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.









23279984-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-0.jpg

23279984-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-2.jpg

23279984-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-5.jpg

23279984-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-9.jpg

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23279984-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-27.jpg
The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors:

1.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Start Winding

4.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor.

5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor.

6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms.

7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

High Winding

8.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms.

11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15:

Low Winding

16.
touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27:

Ex-Low Winding

28.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms.

55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short):

56.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing.

57.
One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor.

58.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Feb 02, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Lexmark 4039 laser printer is printing left side of the page faint


check the cartridge it has a toner pcr and cylinder inside maybe its defective or the ic chips

Feb 19, 2013 | Lexmark 4039P 4039 Plus Laser Printer...

1 Answer

Water heater not heating water , single element 110v replaced still no hot water


How To Test High Temperature Cutoff Switch Located at the Upper Heating Element Before testing the electic water heater elements we should check out the high temperature cutoff switch since a problem there will simply turn off power to both heating elements.
On an electric water heater the upper heating element may have two, three, or four electrical terminals, and above the upper thermostat is a high temperature cutoff switch with four terminals. You should be able to identify these parts by looking at the water heater's wiring diagram found on the tank or inside the panel cover.
The electric water heater high-temperature cutoff swtich will turn off the entire water heater if temperatures are too high. If this cutoff is not working the water heater will simply not heat at all. You can use this switch to test to confirm that the incoming electrical power circuit is indeed bringing power to the water heater.
Turn off electrical power to the heater at the electrical panel: WARNING: possible fatal electrical shock
Set the multitester or VOM to its 250 VAC scale, and attach the tester probes or alligator clips to the two uppermost terminals on the control (L1 and L3 on the top left and top right in our photo below). These are normally the incoming electrical wires from the power circuit to the heater. "L" refers to "Line voltage" on most controls.
Test for line voltage: Now you can turn on electrical power to the heater. Your VOM should show voltage close to the voltage on the water heater's identification tag: typically this will be 208V or 240V for a 240V water heater, or it might be just 115V or 120V for a 120V water heater. If you do not see voltage close to the rated voltage you need to call an electrician to diagnose and repair the problem.
Turn off Electrical Power to the Water Heater again. Don't skip this step or you may be killed or you may ruin your test equipment.
Test the High Temperature Cutoff Switch itself: set the VOM to its Ohm or resistance scale using the most sensitive setting (R x 1). Touch one probe to the upper left terminal on the control (L1 in our photo at left). Touch the other probe to the lower left hand terminal on the control (T2 in our photo at left).
The ohm meter needle should move (or your digital multimeter DMM should show some number other than infinity). If no continuity and infinite resistance is what you read, try pressing the reset button on this control (the red "RESET" button in our photo at left).
If you cannot reset the control then this device is not working and it needs to be replaced.


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Jan 03, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I need software and drivers for this printer. thanks.


Here's the link to the Lexmark website for the available Lexmark 4039 drivers. http://bit.ly/9d4tdC. Click on the Microsoft, Macintosh, Linux/Unix or Others dropdown found below the page to choose the version of the operating system of your computer. Download and install the software. Hope this helps.

Jun 15, 2010 | Lexmark 4039 Model 10Plus Laser Printer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore (Whirlpool) Elite HE5 Steam front load dryer. Everything seems to work fine except there is absolutely no heat. I checked the breaker, and it wasn't tripped. I checked the lint filter and...


I think I know what the problem is, this actually happened on a dryer I repaired at one point. Low line voltage to me means that one or more hot leads is not feeding enough voltage to the heating elements (and the heating elements need both hot leads to run) which means the circuit breaker, although on, may be malfunctioning or weakening. You can check this by running your dryer and taking the cover off your circuit panel and checking voltage on the breaker. You should see 110V on each terminal to ground (put leads from one terminal to the grounding bar in the panel). If you see less than 110V on each lead to ground and less that 240V across the terminals it needs to be replaced. (You can get one for under $25.00 depending on brand). NOTE: THE BREAKER USUALLY POPS RIGHT OUT OF THE PANEL, BUT WHEN WORKING IN PANEL TURN MAIN BREAKER OFF TO THE HOUSE AND HAVE SOMEONE HOLD A FLASHLIGHT FOR YOU. IF YOU TOUCH THE LIVE BUSS BAR THAT BREAKER GOES INTO YOU WILL GET SEVERELY HURT. TURNING OFF MAIN BREAKER WILL DISENGAGE THE POWER FROM THE BUSS BARS; NOTE THAT MAIN WIRES ARE STILL POWERED SO BE CAREFUL.

Mar 22, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8674 Dryer

1 Answer

My LG dryer had a 4 prong cord and my new house is a 3 prong outlet. We changed the cord to the 3 prong cord, turned it on and it lit up for 1 second then turned off. We first checked the circuit breaker...


Well a dryer works off of 240 Volts. It splits that up. The light in your dryer uses 110V but the heating elements use 240V. The motor which won't start uses 110V and the controls use 110V. There could be a couple prolems and of which it could be. You need to get a meter and check that both leads are getting 110V from each hot lead to neutral. Also when you switch back to a three prong, the ground is no longer separate and you need to jumper the ground to the neutral terminal. (When you have a four prong cable the ground is separate for the fact that its safer). Even if the circuit breaker is on, I would check that each terminal of the breaker is putting out 110V to ground (If so it needs to be replaced, its simple to do just wire it like the other one, and turn off main power to replace it so there is no power to the buss bar its attached to. Just be careful not to touch the main feed wires to the panel as they are still powered). If none of this pans out, it could also be that your dryer needs that four wire plug (I would check with your manufacturer). Either way, if your dryer worked before it shouldn't be a dryer problem now

Jun 14, 2009 | LG DLE2516 Electric Dryer

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