My t.v. and sound system are connected using anynet when the receiver powers up the sound comes on and seconds later a motor starts. I believe it is the motor that spins the tray. I bought this in May 2009
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Generally you will connect the Digital audio or optical audio cable from TV to the input of Receiver. Then using the remote control of Receiver you will program the source for digital audio or optical audio as TV. I am assuming the speakers on the receiver are already connected and working. All you do is then turn on TV and turn on Receiver and select TV on Receiver. The TV audio will play through the receiver. Make sure the TV sound is in Mute.
Did you recently install an amplifier along with this system? To me, this sounds like what happens when the amplifier overheats or goes into protect mode. This means that you have two potential problems with your system. Either the amplifier is placed somewhere that causes it to overheat, or your power supply from your car is supplying too much (or too little) voltage. Check to make sure that your amplifier placement is okay, and that you have the correct gauge wire for the power run that you did. For a 13-16 foot run, you should have around 2 gauge wire, depending on how much power your amplifier uses. See this chart for further details http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_wiring/car_audio_wiring.htm. Beyond those two issues, you could be dealing with loose connections, or issues with the internal electronics. If all else fails, talk to whoever you bought the unit from, and see what they have to say about it. Best of luck!
It is noise most often referred to as E.M.I. or R.F.I. ( electromagnetic or radio frequency interference). Sources of it can come from other devices plugged into the same circuitry or from nearby running appliances containing electric motors such as fans, or fluorescent lighting.
Things that you can do to reduce this are as follows;
Relocate the receiver and/or plug it into a different outlet.
Plug the receiver into an electronic interference rejecting device such as a power conditioner.
Use ferrite clamps on your power cord of the receiver and all of it's connected devices, and on the analog audio inputs.
Move any power cables closer than about 6" to any other cables connected to the receiver, and any cables crossing each other at 90 degrees.
Make sure all of your RCA, composite and coaxial connections are completely inserted on each end and tight.
Do you have it connected with HDMI? If so, run the HDMI directly to the TV and run an optical or digital coaxial to the receiver. That will solve the problem. If that's not the case, go into the receiver's main audio menu and make sure it's set to "auto" or "digital" or "analog" whichever you are running. Hope this helps
If your TV is a Samzung, and has the Anynet+ function, you need to set the TV up with the Theater system. If there is an Anynet button on your TV remote, push that, and then select the function that sets up the sound system to the TV. If you don't see that button on your TV remote, then look for the option in the TV menu section. Once set up, you can use the menu under that Anynet button to turn off the sound system and return to normal TV audio... and while using the sound system audio, you can control the sound system volume, or mute it, with the TV remote.
After trying several ways, we decided the best picture was to run the blue ray (out) directly to the TV (in) with an HDMI and another HDMI from the sat. box(out) to TV(in), then optical audio from TV (out) to receiver (in). This way you don't have to change channels on the reciever when switching from TV to DVD. Remember that HDMI is one cable that supports audio and video. If you are using all Samsung products and want to use one remote, using the Anynet feature, I think it has to be connected with an HDMI. I'm going to try connecting an HDMI too from the reciever to the TV to see if this feature will work. It does with the Blue Ray.
HDTV is not carried via coaxial cable from tuner, you need HDMI or the 5 RCA cables that are different colors. I forget if they are called component or composite, I think they are called composite, the R and W are sound. If you run the HDMI or composite cables to your TV, there should be a variable out or audio out on the back of the TV that outputs ANY sound coming into the TV, like Wii, DVD, tv, etc. So if you want to listen to tv sound, just pipe the audio out to the receivers available input and turn it up. Cant be used with mag input (turntable) all others are compatible. Did this answer your question? Sat cables are usually kept under 130 ft from the dish, and the dish receiver can output coaxial signal over 400ft on RG-6 cable. HDMI is limited and can get very expensive. Does your sat box have a coaxial digital out (orange RCA) you can use that if your receiver can read it, usually associated with the DVD input or video input, but only for digital encoded programs.
Sounds like you have an issue with your electrical circuit. Your receiver could be receiving spikes of current from the electrical wiring in your house.
Review your current electrical situation. Keep in mind that certain outlets are on the same circuit and that running multiple, high-wattage devices on the same circuit can cause issues with some of those devices. Especially when it comes to turning devices on and off.
Many devices take a sudden, rapid charge to power their circuitry the moment you turn the device on. Home audio and HVAC systems are particularly notorious for doing this. Other devices on the same circuit can sometimes suffer influxes of power flow and may either turn off or go into standby mode to protect themselves from the resulting surges.
I've lost audio systems that way... I lived in an apartment building that has wiring most likely dating back into the 40's. I once turned on a space heater on it's max 1500 watt setting and blew my Logitech Z-680 speakers. (The "BOOM" sound that emitted from my subwoofer was AMAZING. I had just blown an amp circuit. It literally exploded inside of the subwoofer. Took pics and everything.)
If you have the means to do so... You might consider re-wiring your electrical circuit. Take into consideration where you're going to run certain devices and wire the system accordingly.
In the meantime, you would want to be sure to buy a HIGH-QUALITY surge protector for the audio system. Spend a few bucks and get a GOOD one with a good warranty on it. Don't use those cheapy ones that we only really use to split the outlet. NOTHING under 1,000 joules.
My receiver sometimes locks itself like that, though. If we have a power outage or the unit is unplugged suddenly, it will keep itself in standby mode until you unplug it, press the power button a few times to discharge any current left in the capacitors and plug it back in normally. Only then will it turn on again.