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Re: Clothes not drying
A couple of possibilities to check. First, is the lint trap empty? If so, then the symptoms point to hot air bypassing the drum. Look for broken or misaligned plastic ducting inside the dryer itself. Check the exhaust air for moisture, as that is a better indicator than temperature. Don't forget that towels hold an enormous amount of water, & can be extremely long in drying, especially if not spun enough.
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What is the dryer doing? drying your clothes right? so the clothes are wet and as the dryer goes round and round the fan which is attached to the drum ( which holds the clothes) is pushing hot air into it. the vent in the front or the lint trap sucks hair lint debris from going up the exhaust chute. so "steamy" windows is when the dryer exhaust is not vented to take the moist warm air out of the house and raises the humidity level to condensate on the windows giving the steamy look. which is a great way to heat and bring humidity into the house during the dry winter months.
Bad Heating Element Most clothing dryers heat up and dry clothes with a heating element inside the appliance's body. Maytag dryers are no different and sometimes these heating elements break down or burn out, making the dryer cease to get hot. Make sure the dryer is unplugged and the breakers that run the dryer are switched off before inspecting so you don't electrocute yourself. The heating element is in the bottom panel of the dryer and is often a silver part which heats up when the dryer is on. Sometimes the heating element will be cracked or burned out, which means it is broken. Other times it won't look damaged but may not be working. Replace the heating element if this occurs, to see if this is the main problem. Broken Motor Maytag dryers have motors which turn the dryer drum, tossing the clothes so that air and heat can help dry them out completely. When the dryer drum is not turning it means there is something wrong with the motor or that the motor is not getting power. Unplug the dryer and take it apart to inspect the motor. Once you have found the motor, plug the dryer back in and use a meter to see if the motor is getting power. If it is, and isn't working, then there is something wrong with the motor and how it is operating. If the motor isn't getting power, then there is something wrong with the circuits or fuses which disperse power to the motor itself. Bad Switch When Maytag dryers won't tumble or heat the clothes which have been put inside of them, this means there could be a number of different things wrong. However, sometimes there's a simple solution to this problem: The switch on the door of the dryer itself may be faulty or not making the electric connection it should to allow the dryer to run. This is a cheap fix and worth troubleshooting before tearing your Maytag dryer apart. Remove the switch and inspect the two leads to make sure they haven't broken or are still transferring electricity. If they aren't you will have to replace the switch
The orange glow is the heating element working. It mush have good air flow or the coil will burn out and stop heating. Also the thermal limit will stop the heat if to great. If you went all through the vent and the tubing is not smashed or flat check the outside vent for air circulation, if good try to dry a load of clothes. Are you sure your washer is spinning out well? Wet clothes take longer to dry.
Does the dryer heat up or is it just cool air drying the clothes ? If it does actually dry the clothes eventually then it sounds like it is heating up. First thing to check would be exhaust hose. Is warm air blowing out of it ? If warm you got heat. If cool then your heating element isn't working. It should be fairly strong current of very warm air. If weak but warm, then somewhere between lint filter and end of hose you have a blockage caused by lint buildup or hose is bent and blocking air flow. Check hose first. You can disassemble lint trap and go beyond the lint screen into metal duct within dryer and clean with a long brush and vacuum. You can also disconnect exhaust duct flexible hose at back of dryer and work through metal duct from that end too. If you notice increased air flow then it should solve problem,
Have you checked the entire run of the exhaust vent ducting? Cleaning the lint trap is not nearly enough to keep a dryer running efficiently.
A simple test you can try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load as you normally would. With the hose removed and the dryer running, the air leaving the exhaust of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is weak or non-existent, you have a clog INTERNAL to the dryer. You will have to inspect the air blower fan housing and ducting inside the dryer to ensure the blower fan is not obstructed in any way. If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry like they should, you have a clog somewhere in the DUCTING from the point where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. You will need to inspect the exhaust ventilation for any clogs or kinks.
If you can see the heating element glowing, you probably don't have a problem with the heating circuitry. If you haven't checked the dryer ventilation recently, now might be a good time to do so. Leaving a dryer in a clogged, or poorly ventilated condition can cause the dryer heating circuits to over heat to the point of failure. In addition, this can also create a fire hazard.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Your heating element is good. It should read between 9 to 13 ohms. If the heating circuits are working, then you don't have a problem with the heating circuits. The numbe ron cause of drye heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).
If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.
If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.
Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.
heated air enters the dryer at 140 degrees farenheit,
a portion of the heat energy raises the temperature of the water in the clothes.
When the clothes are cold and wet, the difference is large transfer is rapid
a lot of heat transfers to clothes and the exhaust air is damper and colder
As the clothes get warmer and dryer, proprtionally less heat is extracted from the incoming air, and the exhaust air is warmer and dryer.
When the clothes are dry, and at 140 degrees, the same temperature as the incoming air. no heat is removed from the incoming air
the dryer should then stop heating, draw unheated air through the drum and clothes to cool, and reduce wrinkling
then switch off
Check your dryer ducting. If you have not cleaned your dryer ducting recently, it may be time to do so. In order for a dryer to work correctly, it needs proper air flow. A lot of people don't realize that just seeing the heating element glowing and the air blower fan running isn't enough to get your clothes dry. If the dryer does not have a proper exhaust the air has no where to go. All that air that is normally exhausted out of the dryer vent carries all the moisture from your clothes with it. If the exhaust is clogged, all that moisture stays in the dryer and the dryer works harder to try to heat. Your clothes stay wet and, eventually, your thermal cut-out and/or heating element will blow. You could also have a clog somewhere inside the air baffle in the dryer. This is where the exhaust fan is. Lint can get trapped in this area clog up your dryer. Here's a simple test you can perform:
1. Remove the exhaust ducting from the back of the dryer and dry one load in this manner, letting the dryer exhaust freely into your laundry room or garage. Feel the air leaving the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. The air should eventually heat up and be rather forceful. If your clothes dry faster, then you know you have a clog somewhere in the ducting. You will need to trace it all the way to where it leaves your home at the exhaust vent outside. If it is run in a crawl space, make sure it is suspened from the rafters and not on the ground. Leaving it on the ground makes it susceptable to rodents wanting to chew through to get inside your dryer. Dryers provide a great source of warmth and bedding material (lint) and mice love them. Also ensure thre are no sags in the line that will create areas for lint to collect. If you find that your clothes are drying better, take care of the problem immediately. Running a dryer for extended periods of time exhausting in your home can add unwanted humidity, dust and potential mildew.
2. If your dryer still is not drying sufficiently, or you have very weak air flow coming out of the rear exhaust port. You will need to remove the air baffle housing and check for clogs. I experienced a home where a dryer would not heat, but the ducting was clear all the way to the exterior vent. The heating element was also heating properly. When I removed the ducting, however, there was barely any air coming out of the dryer. When I inspected the air baffle housing I found a mouse nest as big as a shoe box and compacted to the point that I had to disassemble the unit to get it out. You will find that MOST insufficient drying problems are directly related to the cleanliness of your dryer interior and your dryer ducting. Not to mention, the potential for house fires if you do not maintain a dryer properly. I have also found situations where lint became so backed up in a dryer that there was evidence of multiple fires inside the dryer. Take the time to double check your dryer venting and replace those old plastic worn out vent hoses with new semi-rigid metal hoses. They resist crimping and crushing and will not clog as easily.
NOTE: It is normal for the heating element to cycle on and off. This is actually a symptom of a "healthy drying cycle".
I hope this information is helpful to you. If you find no obvious signs of clogs or obstructions, let me know. You may have something else causing your problem.