I am currently doing a light painting project for my photo class. I want to be able to keep the shutter open for as long as I want. I put the setting on "B" like all of the mauals tell me to but when I push the shutter release button the shutter closes. Please help!
You press the shutter once and that opens the shutter (you do your light painting) then you press the shutter a second time to close the shutter.
When you press the shutter the first time and look in the view finder it will be dark . this is because the mirror has locked its self up while doing the exposure (this is normal) Once you click the shutter a second time the mirror will flop down and you will be able to see threw the viewfinder again.
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When the shutter assembly fails all you can do is to set the camera to manual exposure, select the "B" shutter speed, and with the lens off and the back open, fire the shutter. In the B setting the shutter will remain open as long as you hold the shutter button, allowing you to see if there's an obvious obstruction.
If there's nothing obvious, then the shutter assembly must be replaced and as it's an uneconomical repair on that model your camera effectively becomes a spares donor.
You can get similar models very cheaply on auction websites or even for nothing at all on sites like FreeCycle and Freegle as they're effectively worthless, even in good working order.
Your shutter may be stuck open... this will give the appearance of the shutter not opening as well as no image when you look through the viewfinder.
Open the back of the camera, as if you were replacing the film, and look to see if the shutter is open. If it is, you can probably see light coming through the lens when looking from the back of the camera.
If this is the case, you will need to find out why the shutter is stuck open.
Some cameras use a battery to activate the shutter, some cameras have a "bulb" setting that keeps the shutter open for long exposures.
Whatever you do, do NOT force the shutter... I might jiggle it a little bit to see if it will close, but I wouldn't recommend more than a slight jiggle.
While you have camera open, inspect the mirror. If the shutter is closed but the mirror is stuck "up" (to allow light to reach the shutter/firm), there is a chance that you would not be able to activate the shutter.
If the reading is centred then it is right for the settings that you currently have onthe camera. If the reading is - then the light is less than optimal and you need to lower the shutter speed or open the aperture setting (make the f number less). If the reading is + then the light is too bright and you need to increase the shutter speed or shutown the aperture setting (make the f number greater).
OM-20 was basically a upgraded OM-10 with the manual adapter built in and a number of other refinements.
The viewfinder has LED's to show the shutter speed recommended by the camera's lightmeter for the ISO and aperture selected. It also has an exposure compensation indicator (the +/- symbol) and an indicator for flash ready which doubles up as a post-exposure flash confirmation. There is also the indicator lamp to show manual mode has been selected. OM-10 lacks the manual mode lamp and the +/- indicator.
Like the OM-10, the OM-20 is primarily an aperture priority automatic camera. In this mode you set the ISO film speed, choose which aperture you wish to use (with the ability to use the lens depth of field preview button) and then the camera selects the correct shutter speed. The +/- exposure compensation control allows the user to tell the camera to modify the recommended shutter speed by up to two stops either way.
In manual mode, there is no manual metering. The light meter behaves exactly as it does in aperture priority mode and the viewfinder shows the recommended shutter speed and not the manually selected one. Correct metering is therefore a case of adjusting the aperture first, and then choosing the correct shutter speed indicated in the viewfinder. If the user then decides to select a different shutter speed, then the aperture ring must be adjusted to maintain the correct exposure. For example the aperture is set to f8 and the camera recommends 1/60th of a second. The user decides that a faster shutter speed is required and chooses 1/250th, but the viewfinder remains showing 1/60th. In order to keep the same exposure value the user must open the aperture by two full stops to f4. The camera's light meter will detect the new aperture setting and providing the light on the object is unchanged the viewfinder shutter speed display should now show 1/250th as well to confirm the correct adjustment. Alternatively, the user can choose the shutter speed first by looking at what has been set on the control ring (or by turning the ring to the end of its travel and then counting the clicks from there as all experienced OM users do) and then turning the aperture ring until the shutter speed shown in the viewfinder matches what's been manually set.
It all sounds clumsy and complex but is done far more quickly than I've taken to type this and becomes second nature.
Aperture priority metering is selected on the camera by choosing AUTO on the mode selecter. In this mode the shutter speed ring has no effect and the viewfinder always displays the automatically selected shutter speed.
well first how far away from the stage will you be?
will you be using available light or a flash unit?
shutter speed and f-stop depend on the light source and film speed. (iso )
the faster the film the less you have to use flash, the lower the f-stop the less depth of field you have, the kind of flash is important, most flash units are good for only around 20 ft.
i would use a high speed film and not use flash. flash will kill any colored lights. try to keep the f-stop at least f/8 and the shutter speed no less than 1/60 sec. have fun.
1) turn the mode switch/knob on the left of the camera to M ( manual mode )
2) turn your lens to the highest f-stop ( 22 or 16 depending on your lens )
3) in front of shutter release button you have control for your aperture : turn until the desired aperture is displayed ( view finder or the LCD monitor on the top )
4) your shutter speed setting is controlled with your thumb with the control situated next to the strap lug on the right hand side of the camera.
5) press shutter release half way and look through viewfinder and see light meter reading and adjust either shutter speeds or the aperture as explained being guided by the l.meter.
Set camera to B , open back door and release the shutter and keep it open while you inspect focal plain area. Is the shutter fully opened ? If you release again is the shutter opening completely and closing completely ? While the shutter is fully opened on B look through the shutter/ mirror box area is anything obstracting your view ?
Seems like one of the shutter curtains is not opening properly and shutter will need servicing. Please note that it may not be economical to repair : $ 150-200 if the shutter block does not have to be replaced completely.
Did you set the camera to M90 AFTER you installed new batteries? The camera will work without batteries in the B and M90 settings, but when you install new batteries, reset the mirror by turning the dial to M90. If this doesn't correct it, I wouldn't recommend opening the camera - take it to a repair shop.