My LG range was having problems where the stovetop burner and/or oven would just shut off. In the case of the oven, sometimes it would fail during the preheat stage, while other times it would shut off after preheating. The control panels were replaced on the range twice. LG finally decided to replace the entire unit. While the stovetop burners now seem to work without problem, I'm still having trouble with the oven shutting off. I thought that maybe there's a problem with the electrical wiring, but I can turn all 5 stovetop burners on at high power at the same time, and they work fine, so it doesn't seem like a house wiring problem.
Guys, I dont know whether this got solved yet. I had the same issue sometime back. The issue with LG is that after continuous usage for about 30 minutes or so, the microwave automatically shutsdown and will only restart after cooling. This is a saftey feathure inbuilt to prevent overheating of the oven and magnetron. So please let me know as to how long you were using the microwave before if turned off.
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Re: LG Electric Range Oven Keeps Shutting Off
When you say "Just shut off" do you mean the circuit breakers would trip, or fuses would blow? If so, I would have an electrician check that the circuit is properly fused/breakered and wire sized for the amount of power required by the oven. If the installation directions say it needs a 50 amp service, it better be a 50 amp service. If shutting off is just something within the oven, then get LG back out again, and let us know of what they say is wrong.
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Try replacing ONE stovetop burner and see if the new one works. If it does, replace more stovetop burners. If the new ones all work, replace the oven burners.
If that first replacement stovetop burner STILL doesn't work, don't replace any more. Instead, check (or have checked) the circuit breaker for the range. It may get power from a second source to power the clock.
First shut off the gas supply & disconnect electrical power to the range.
Remove all the burner control knobs, grates, burner caps & trim rings.
Remove the 2 screws securing the manifold panel, one from each corner. The panel will drop down.
the screws from each manifold pipe mounting bracket. Remove 1/4 inch
hex head bolt from the center of the manifold pipe. Push supply tube
back to release from manifold pipe. Lift the cooktop assembly at the
front to clear the 1/2 inch locator pins attached to the top of the
Place cardboard between each side of cooktop & bodyside to prevent damage.
Move the cooktop to one side, being careful not to put stress on the wiring harness on left side.
Remove the wire from the electrode.
Remove the screw from the electrode mounting bracket to release the electrode.
You can replace the electrode & reassemble following instructions in reverse order.
The clean cycle requires both heating elements to run at the same time. Since your oven is a 220volt, each heating element will require their own 110v source to heat the oven. This means that the stovetop elements will need to be disabled to prevent the breaker from tripping since the cleaning cycle requires a lot of electricity to do it's job.
There is not enough wattage left over to both clean and cook, this is why cleaning is recommend during a time in which you will not be using your oven.
Yes you should be able to but there are a couple things to consider. When the oven is in the self-cleaning cycle the heating element reaches a very high tempature and runs for extended periods. So if you have a couple top burners going the amperage draw could possibly trip the electrical breaker. Also there is a lot of heat generated around the range during the cleaning cycle and it may be to hot to actually work around the range. There are some ranges that dis-able the top burners during the self-clean cycle. If that is the case with your range then the answer would be no. The way you would know for sure is to try them during the self-cleaning cycle or consult your owners manual.
This happened to my DCS when the Hot Wire Relay went out. It isn't an expensive part, but finding someone that knows what needs to be replaced, and then can replace it is hard. My oven also did the opposite and continued to heat without shutting off, and it was once again the hot wire relay.
I have the same problem intermittently on my Super Cap 465. After reading the following quote from another site, "There have been cases where radio waves, electronic signals and sometimes something as strange as dimmers in lights have caused some weird problems with some computer panels in stoves like these", I tried turning off lights that might be on the same circuit and wouldn't you know it, the oven igniter circuit worked.
you ignitor is going out you will need to replace it the ignitor needs to draw a min of 3.2 amps in order to open the gas valve coil if short of this it will not open at thimes it may just have enough to open
Not that this will fix it for sure, sometimes it does. Remove the top of the burner that is causing the problem, and take some sand paper and clean the top of the ignitor and the bottom of the burner itself. That will sometime cure the problem. If not, you could have a bad spark module, or a wiring issue.