Question about Electrolux Dryers
Replace heating element
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Before you replace the heating element, check the thermal fuse. All heaters have safety thermal fuse. This opens in case the thermostat fails. This is normally attached on or near the heating element, looks like diode. (When replacing, do not solder ! this will damage the fuse)
Posted on May 30, 2007
SOURCE: heating element
Disconnect the power.
Slide the Dryer away from the wall.
Pop up the top
You should see the heater in the back.
Remove the wires connections, and move them to the side
Remove the retianing screws
Pull the heater out.
Put the new heater in and reverse the procedure.
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
before you replace the heater
most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out.
(also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names)
These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.
If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.
Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
First disconnect the power to the dryer by unplugging it from the wall. Then remove the 3 screws on the lower panel of the dryer. This should expose the heating element in a metal housing on the right side of the dryer. Disconnect the 2 wires going to the heating element and slide it out of the housing. The heating element part number is 3387747.
Posted on May 25, 2010
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Hello Curtis - Typically, error code E61 indicates a Heater Relay failure. At first the heater was grounded, and now possibly the heater relay. When the heater grounded it could have shorted the relay as well. Generally it is a good idea to have a professional take a look at it to get to the root cause. Cost of parts and technical expertise entailed in these types of replacements can be a bit tricky.
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