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To test the car for electrical drains requires a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) Best is to drive the car awhile so battery is close to full charge. Set parking brake and raise hood place the meter on battery red lead to + and black to - set dial to read DC voltage 20 volt scale This should read about 13.0 volts now start car and check again reading should be 13.2 volts or higher but not greater than 15.0 volt leave leads on battery and turn dial on voltmeter to the 1 volt AC scale this reading should be less than 120MV or .120 volts if good the charging system is in working order any thing out range you have a bad alternator. Now with car running make sure your accessories are off shut off car and exit note to watch for sentinel dome lights let then fade out. Now place DVOM on a ampere scale 10 amp preferred here is the tricky part place one lead in the center of the battery post and the other on the cable end slowly remove with out breaking connection this will read the total amperage draw against battery This draw after 10 minutes should be less than .300MA Milli-amps if it is not use a small hose clamp to keep lead on post and clip other to cable end touch battery until sentinel goes out and retest now start removing main fuses in fuse panel until draw is gone. Now you have identified the circuit that is causing your problem.
Are you still looking for that belt diagram..? Is this for the motor to trans (which is pretty simple) or the belt to the deck..? Couldn't find a diagram so hope my drawing comes out right.. This is for the deck belt routing..!!! Left pulley (O\ /O) Right pulley . Tension \ \@/ / Pulley . Engine \ @ / Pulley Front of mower here. Main thing is, you take the belt from BETWEEN the right & left pulleys, pull it down and around the tension pulley..
It's probably the lighting control module , but without doing some electrical testing that is just a guess !
Battery positive voltage (B+) is applied at all times to the lamp control module (LCM) through the underhood junction block HDLP MaxiFuse® and CKT 1242 (RED).
When you place the headlamp switch in the HEAD position, the headlamps input to the LCM is grounded. The LCM then applies battery positive voltage (B+) through the underhood junction block HDLOBML fuse and HDLOBMR fuse, which feed the left low beam headlamp and the right low beam headlamp respectively. When you activate the headlamp dimmer switch by pulling on the multifunction lever until the switch clicks, CKT 524 (PPL) is grounded to the LCM. The LCM then removes battery positive voltage (B+) from the low beam headlamps and supplies battery positive voltage (B+) through the underhood junction block HDHIBML fuse and HDHIBMR fuse, which feed the left high beam headlamp and the right high beam headlamp respectively.
Twilight Sentinel Circuit Description
Twilight sentinel determines whether the daytime running lamps (DRL), or the exterior lamps and the low beam headlamps at full intensity should be on based upon the signal of the ambient light sensor. When the ambient light sensor detects daytime, the twilight sentinel turns on the DRL. When the ambient light sensor detects darkness, the twilight sentinel turns on the exterior lamps and the low beam headlamps at full intensity. The twilight sentinel also keeps the lamps on for a delay period of 3 to 180 seconds under the following conditions:
• The vehicle is in PARK.
• The ambient light sensor detects darkness.
• The ignition switch is turned to the OFF position.
You may turn off the twilight sentinel manually. When it is dark and the gear selector is in PARK, pushing the twilight sentinel switch to OFF will turn off the headlamps and exterior lamps. Pushing the twilight sentinel switch to OFF again will turn on the headlamps and the exterior lamps. If the gear selector is not in PARK, pushing the twilight sentinel switch will have no effect.
The F- switch is just an input from the LCM - lamp control module .
Do you know how to test control module inputs an outputs ? Very easy to fry a module if you don't know how to do it .
Also have a full scan of all modules on the vehicle , could have DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored . Not for the OBD 2 engine computer . The instrument cluster , BCM , LCM can all set codes too, related to lighting an someother thing's . ECM Inputs and Outputs Diagnosis
You can find free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine ! Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link . The first diagram you will see at the top the power supply to the LCM , down a little you will see the headlamp switch , ambient light sensor . Now if you want to start replacing thing's without testing good luck !
I have a 1997 cadillac deville that has both 'daytime running lamps' when put into gear and 'twilight sentinel' which turns the headlamps and parking lamps on at night, and goes off during the day or when it is bright enough.
There is an adjustable delay for the twilight sentinel to turn the headlights off after the ignition key is removed and it is night time.
I had the 'daytime running lamps' installed on a 1990 Cadillac Deville that turns the headlamps only on when the ignition key is switched to on with an aftermarket module. The headlamps are about 70% or so as bright as the regular twiilight sentinel headlamps and parking lights and are designed to go on during the day.
The twilight sentinel overrides this feature when it gets dark outside.
I had the daytime running lamps installed by an auto electric shop that specializes in electrical systems, alarms, stereos, etc.
Check the following to see if your cars electrical system is causing a power drain.
*Make sure all headlights and interior lights, and accessories are off when vehicle is not in use.
*Have your alternator professionally tested to make sure the built in power regulator is not going bad. Also check that the alternator is putting out a proper charge during vehicle operation. (Use a digital multimeter, touch the test leads to the battery terminals while the car is running RED to positive+ and BLACK to negative-, being careful you don't cross the two and never let positive and negative touch. Multimeter should read 14 volts DC with the car running. If it reads under 14 volts, replace the alternator.
*Check for a bad grounding wire (usually the negative battery cable), if it's cracked, frayed, or bare wire is exposed replace it right away. It can drain the battery if the bare wire touches the metal of the vehicle.
* If your car is equipped with the twilight sentinel (automatic headlight feature) shut it off manually when your done using your car for the day. If the twilight sentinel is going bad, it can draw battery power even if the headlights are off.
*Have a test performed to make sure you don't have a faulty ignition switch. This can draw power even with the ignition key off.
*If all of the above test good, you likely have defective battery. Replace battery. Feel free to contact me if problems persist.
Sounds like the problem lies in the TWILIGHT SENTINEL AMPLIFIER unit. Connected with the dash twilight sensitivity panel. All part of the electrical circuitry. Definitely a pricey component. Hope this helps.