It seems that my zoom is permanently stuck on zoom the switch is completely destroyed so is the little piece of circuit board it lays wondering if there is some manual way to bypass the zoom or to manually work the zoom
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Possible that the zoom switch is short or struck in action where by the zoom has gone to the extreme end. Wriggle the switch after the cam is switched off and see if it returns. If not the unit must be opened to check for the switch failure or possible motor failure, drive circuit or a mechanical jamming.
Partially open sounds like a mechanical problem with the cassette housing/door assembly. The door usually stays fully open or will not open at all, caused by component failure on the mechanical driver board. Check to make sure nothing is stuck in the mechanism, like a label or a broken piece from a cassette. If the door will move, but will not latch closed, the problem is most likely on th emechanical driver board.
This seems to be a common issue. Mine was stuck at what seemed like max optical zoom. When i would look in the lens I could not see the zoom lens. If you can not see your zoom lens and the optical zoom seems stuck I bet your camera has the same STUPID issue that mine has.
It was out of warranty and I figured I had nothing to loose so I took it apart to see if I could fix it, turns out I was able to fix it just by taking it apart and putting it back together!
Taking it apart is simple enough for the average handy man, if you do not have confidence that you can take it apart then do not attempt this repair.
Take off the bottom cover. Take off the Hard drive cover Now remove the three screws under the hard drive that hold the drive's plastic housing in. Remove the screw that is right under the record button, now the drive house should be loose. Disconnect drive cable from board and remove drive and housing. Take off the plastic piece that has the zoom button, be sure to gently disconnect the wire. Remove rear piece. That screw marked with an arrow on the bottom, do not remove it! Now remove the thin metal piece to expose the flat cable. disconnect flat cable from board gently flex it out of the way so you can disconnect the cable behind it. Once you have both disconnected remove the circuit board. unplug the flat cable on the back side. Now remove the front piece. At this point you are nearly there! Now remove the metal housing that holds the lens assembly. Once removed remove the lens assembly by removing the three screws.
If you thought that was bad, this next part will scare you. Make sure you are in a very clean room with no fans blowing. Remove the CCD from the rear of the lens assembly by removing the two screws on the back that hold it in place. Remove the foam and square lens piece that were behind the CCD. On the side of the assembly is a screw that holds the top cover in, remove it and gently pry off the top cover.
looking inside you will find the following: on the CCD side is the focus lens. in the middle is the shutter On the side farthest from the CCD is a zoom lens.
On mine the zoom lens was not close to the shutter If your zoom lens is not close to the shutter then you likely have the same problem as I had and you can fix yours! If not, you likely have some other issue :-(
To fix mine I turned it over and I loosened the screws that held the motor and shaft for the zoom lens. Then I slid the zoom lens as far back as it would go towards the shutter. Then tightened the zoom lens motor and shaft mount. Put it all back together, installed battery and bingo it's working again!
Why did this fix the problem? Well there is a little sensor that tells the camera that the zoom lens is near the shutter. Each time you turn off the camera it always puts the lens in that "home" position. If the camera is turned on when the zoom lens is not in this "home" position then the camera seems to assume the zoom is broken and you end up with the infamous JVC stuck zoom issue.
My guess is this problem is caused by any of the following: 1. Removing the battery while the camera is turned on 2. Dropping the camera while it is on or off 3. Battery going dead while camera is in use
Final thoughts before you get started:
1. If you are not good at working with tiny parts or electronics, I wish you luck because you will need it. Might be better off printing these instructions and taking them with you to a repair facility and paying someone more familiar with this sort of work to fix it for you.
2. The ribbon cables are removed easily. Each one has a clamp that rotates to release the ribbon. Some rotate towards the ribbon to release, others work the opposite. It is quite obvious looking at them which ones go what way.
I had the same on mine and here is the explanation because fixing it is not easy to impossible.
I had it fixed on mine just to see it getting worse after that.
Reason: The Zoom Slider puts a resistor to some printed curcuit board just beneath it and if that gets oxidised due to age it stops working. Only the remote workes then.
Workaround (recommended): Use the remote.
Fixing it is nearlky impossible as the printed circuit board is on the other side of the camera from where you start opening it and you have to comletely dissasemble it. I did and tried fixing it by cleaning the circuit boad, but it somehow changed the restance value and then it was stuck in full zoom all the time. Then had to re-open again and sever the connection completely, thus having the camera stuck in full view at least. but because of this strange resistor concept of the design, having the connection severed does not disable the zoom but rather simulates constant zooming out. hence my remote is now not longer working.
Hence: keep it simple and use the remote and be happy.
You most likely can not buy one because like you said you don't have a part number. These are sometimes called "tactile switches" or "domes". This is a long shot. If you are up for an adventure and want to learn something at the same time try this:
One) go to a "used electronics" surplus store. One that carries small misc components and "junk". Take your broken part with you. See if they have something similar to it that can be used in place of it.
or better yet
Two) go to a "Printed Circuit" board house. One that specifically sells "keyboards and touch pads". Ask for a salesman or production manager. Show him the part you that is broken and ask if he has something similar. If he does he'll probably give it to you. If not he'll will know if you can even get them.
Unfortunately, the part you are seeking is proprietary to Sony, so you might not find one. But you might find one that is a close match.
One other choice see if you can find your model camera in surplus or a broken one on E-bay for the spare parts.
But sounds to me it's to the junk pile.
I had this problem on this camera. I found the battery removal rechnique seemed to work for only a short while, then the problem would come back repeatedly. I looked into just buying a new one but when I explained the problem to a salesman in an independent camera shop, he asked me if I'd just tried hitting the top of the camera. Apparently the motor sometimes gets stuck. Since the camera was virtually useless I tried this (hit it 2 or 3 times quite firmly, near the lens and by the accessory shoe). Now it zooms in and out perfectly and so far hasn't reverted to its problem state.
Must try to give the camera shop some other business - maybe when I buy a new stills camera