Question about Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

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Bake won't work with Thermador SMW272 oven.

When I choose Bake and set a temperature, I hear a click but then the baking element does not heat up. I took out the element and tested it based on some google searches but I don't know how to interpret the results. First test was a continuity test using a multimeter attached to the element. The reading was "021" which I take to be 21 ohms (could be wrong) however the multimeter did not buzz as it's supposed to when resistence is < 20 ohms. I then set it to test resistance (at the lowest granularity setting) and got a reading of 21.3. Most of the web sites said that if the setting was between 19 and 100 (or something), that the element was good. I then used the multimeter to test the leads from the oven to the element. After switching to measure volts AC, I connected the probes and turned on bake. I got a reading of 2.4. I have no idea if that's a good reading. Thanks for any help anyone can provide!

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  • Frank Pink Jan 15, 2013

    While this is categorized as a double oven, it's really a unit comprised of a microwave, warming drawer, and oven. I did some more testing today. When I turn on bake, I hear a click and 50 seconds later another click followed by three more -- all spread out over about 10 seconds (note that the last two are in rapid succession). This sequence of 4 clicks re-occurs every minute. Note that this same thing happens if the heating element is not even attached. I attached a multimeter to the leads and got a reading of about 10 volts AC after the first click, then it goes to 0 through the 4 click sequence and then back up to 10 volts for another minute, ....

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  • Thermador Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Unless ur not reading the voltage reading correct or using the proper voltage setting on alternating current and not direct current? it is showing ur not getting the full voltage as it should show 120 volts

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-


Oven Won Turn on http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Posted on Jan 11, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bake element does not heat

After removing the racks, rack rails and the back plate I removed the 2 screws the hold the bake element. Lifting the front of the bake element up and carefully pulling the element out and gently moving the element so the connector clear the hole I was able to disconnect the wire. After testing for continuity with an ohm meter (non found) I determined the element need to be replaced. $37 and 45 minutes total.

Posted on May 29, 2008

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: bake and broil top oven not functioning with system

Hello,

While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?

I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Thermador double oven / Bake wont work /FC code flashed once

I found I have this exact problem. Same bake preheat issue: I can bake if I set broil first. However, the oven doesn't work if I press bake first. The control board has already been replaced a couple times over the years. Is this another replacement??

Posted on Feb 03, 2011

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Maytag Oven. The bake do not heat, the broil is ok. what is the problem ?


Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

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1 Answer

It seems my plain fan convection oven takes significantly longer to pre-heat to 350 degrees when in convection bake.


I would check the oven sensor it may be defective

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

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1 Answer

Amana Convection Oven - Not heating in normal bake mode, but works otherwise


I will say that is the control board that is not working properly. Have you try to unplugged for phew minutes?, this will reset the current settings. If not, I will star replacing the control board. Good Luck!.

Jan 13, 2014 | Amana Ovens

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My oven doesn't heat up


It could be the switch or heating element

Mar 17, 2013 | Thermador SM272 Electric Double Oven

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Baking & broiling elements won't heat after baking element burned out and was replaced.


the surge from the original element burning out has destroyed the control board if you can't hear the relays on the board clicking when you power up the elements bake or broil then its either the low voltage side of the board,if you hear clicking then the relays are working but the contacts are burned out and can't pass the current to heat the oven or briol elements

Jan 04, 2013 | Jenn-Air Ovens

2 Answers

I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...


Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
  1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.
  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.

Jan 26, 2011 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Is there a reset for the oven in a thermador smw? I had it worked on years ago and the repai guy simply pressed a button and all was well...also is there a source for control panels, since mine is almost...


Never use Self-Cleaning!!! It will fry components, melt connectors, and burn wires. If you have violated this rule and an oven no longer works, it is probably not a bad element if neither the bake nor the broil work. It is likely the high heat cut out breaker.

On a Thermador CT 227 double oven, there is a panel on the right side (facing the unit) that is about 3 inches wide and runs from top to bottom held in place by about 6 or 8 screws. Turn off the power, slide the unit out of the kitchen cabinet, remove the sheet metal panel and you will see two high heat cut out breakers. They have a small red button in the center that resets the breaker. Push firmly and you should hear a click. If there is no click, check the unit for continuity. If it is open and the button push does not reset it, the unit may be fried. These breakers trip with high heat and will prevent both elements in an oven from heating. If the breaker is good, you'll have to test the leads to each element and then trace the dead lead to the problem.

Dec 27, 2010 | Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

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