Question about Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

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Bake won't work with Thermador SMW272 oven.

When I choose Bake and set a temperature, I hear a click but then the baking element does not heat up. I took out the element and tested it based on some google searches but I don't know how to interpret the results. First test was a continuity test using a multimeter attached to the element. The reading was "021" which I take to be 21 ohms (could be wrong) however the multimeter did not buzz as it's supposed to when resistence is < 20 ohms. I then set it to test resistance (at the lowest granularity setting) and got a reading of 21.3. Most of the web sites said that if the setting was between 19 and 100 (or something), that the element was good. I then used the multimeter to test the leads from the oven to the element. After switching to measure volts AC, I connected the probes and turned on bake. I got a reading of 2.4. I have no idea if that's a good reading. Thanks for any help anyone can provide!

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  • Frank Pink Jan 15, 2013

    While this is categorized as a double oven, it's really a unit comprised of a microwave, warming drawer, and oven. I did some more testing today. When I turn on bake, I hear a click and 50 seconds later another click followed by three more -- all spread out over about 10 seconds (note that the last two are in rapid succession). This sequence of 4 clicks re-occurs every minute. Note that this same thing happens if the heating element is not even attached. I attached a multimeter to the leads and got a reading of about 10 volts AC after the first click, then it goes to 0 through the 4 click sequence and then back up to 10 volts for another minute, ....

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  • Thermador Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Unless ur not reading the voltage reading correct or using the proper voltage setting on alternating current and not direct current? it is showing ur not getting the full voltage as it should show 120 volts

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-


Oven Won Turn on http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Posted on Jan 11, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bake element does not heat

After removing the racks, rack rails and the back plate I removed the 2 screws the hold the bake element. Lifting the front of the bake element up and carefully pulling the element out and gently moving the element so the connector clear the hole I was able to disconnect the wire. After testing for continuity with an ohm meter (non found) I determined the element need to be replaced. $37 and 45 minutes total.

Posted on May 29, 2008

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: bake and broil top oven not functioning with system

Hello,

While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?

I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Thermador double oven / Bake wont work /FC code flashed once

I found I have this exact problem. Same bake preheat issue: I can bake if I set broil first. However, the oven doesn't work if I press bake first. The control board has already been replaced a couple times over the years. Is this another replacement??

Posted on Feb 03, 2011

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I found I have this exact problem. Same bake preheat issue: I can bake if I set broil first. However, the oven doesn't work if I press bake first. The control board has already been replaced a couple times over the years. Is this another replacement??

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