Question about Refrigerators
On the control board there is a blue connector that only has 2 wires coming off it the pins it uses are 12vdc and ground measuring across the wires shows a short. this is obiviously loading down the dc control voltage so when the connector is pluged in, nothing functions. disconnected the fridge and freezer get to there set temps, display works everything appears to function. need a circuit diagram that shows what components plug into the board so i can replace the faulty one
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
SOURCE: Denon AVR 2106 Protect Mode
I will will help you with this, but you must follow my instructions. These are not easy unit to repair, and your troubleshooting technic may have even caused more problems. You should never power on a receiver with connectors unplugged. Since the 15 pin connector is used for the audio signals only (CN559) you may be OK, but please do not do this anymore unless you are willing to create a lot of smoke.
Since this unit does turn on without that one connector plugged in, I will assume that you do not have a blown channel even though it is the most common reason for these to go into "Protect Mode" which is what yours is doing. They go into protect mode to keep the receiver from causing more damage to the circuits and to prevent fires.
I think the most likely reason your unit is going into protect mode is because the negative 15 volt regulator on the main board is bad. This regulator is located by ref # IC102 and is on a small heat sink in the power supply area of the main amp board. Since you have the manual for this unit you should be able to find the part number and location very easy.
The second most likely reason for your problem is a resistor, ref # R184, it is a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor and it is right next to the pre-amp board on the main board. It is near CP501 but on the other side of the pre-amp board towards the output transistors a little. Check this resistor first with an ohm meter, see if it is at 10 ohms. If not, get a 10 ohm 1 watt flameproof resistor and replace it. Then make sure everything is plugged in right and try it again.
If the resistor is good, then go to the voltage regulator, you can check it by measuring the voltage at resistors R145 and R146. If you look at the schematic for that area, you will see that those resistors are connected to both the positive 15 regulator and the negative 15 volt regulator. One side of R146 should measure -15 volts and the other side of R146 should be at 0 volts. Then measure R145. You should have +15 volts on one side and 0 volts on the other side. If the voltage you measure there is not within a couple of tenths of a volt either way, change the voltage regulator that is bad. If all you get is positive voltage on R146 and no negative voltage, then IC102.
Now you are probably wondering, how can you check those voltage if the unit is shutting off right away. Here is how. Have you meter probes in place before turn the unit on, watch the meter while is is turning on. You only need a few seconds to check each one. Check R146 first, then after the unit shuts off, check R145 when you turn it back on again. This is much safer than unplugging connectors and letting the amp idle with unbalanced voltages which could cause an extreme current draw if left on too long.
If you can not verify any problems with those two things above, then you really do need to check the amp circuits. You can do this with no power connected, but you must take out the main board with the big heat sink. Once you get it out, check the output transistors and start with the pair that is located at the inner most spot of the heat sink. The area close to the display and CNT board. That is the most common channel to go bad. If either one of those transistors mounted on the big heat sink measures shorted of very low in ohms, that is the bad channel. If you have a bad channel, there will be many more parts to replace, I will let you knwo what those are if you find any shorted output transistors. You can not check the amp circuit any other way, you will only be getting a reading across the relays if you try to check it at the speaker outputs. The speaker relays never open unless the unit comes out of protect mode first.
Let me know if I have explained this good enough for you, if not I will give it another try.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
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