I have an 800 watt inverter with 1200 watt peak output. Runs off 330 ah battery bank. New unit and noticed when I turn on LCD tv, light turns off for few seconds until tv powers up. Checked voltage meter and it shows only 186 volts. tested outlets with multi tester and found 186 volts there too. tested outlet directly on inverter and tester showed 232 volts. Tested at end of 2 foot cable that runs to selector swith for generator/inverter.and found 192 volts. Replaced cable in case of damage and still same test results. Pluged an extention cord into inverter directly and found 192-4 volts at outlet. I have had a 500 watt and 1600 watt inverter in same system(500 watt until 2 days ago)and both gave out 230 volts with no problems. Why is there 232 volts directly at inverter socket but significant loss of voltage as soon as something is plugged in to it (without any load on it)
Ignore peak, that means nothing. RMS * 1.414 = peak. RMS is the actual usage you will get, thats all. Peak doesnt mean it will supply the peak wattage for a short period of time: salesmen with no electrionics training tell people this and its a big fat lie.
See what the unit is drawing, use a clamp-on ammeter on ONE lead (not both, or it will read 0). That shoudl tell you if your device is drawing too much. You should only be able to run that device UNDER the 800 Watts (watts = volts * amps, not including loss of efficiency which might be 10% or more, and even greater when warm)
Source: I'm a maintenance electrician. Like the home-builder kind, same apprenticeship (more hours; 10,400) but also with much industrial training in PLCs, transformers, converters, inverters, motors, controls, etc.
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It is most likely the low voltage alarm. Suggest connecting when the car is running with no load (110 volts not connected). If the alarm continues turn the unit off and on to reset.
Hope this helps?
Inverter Protection Features
• Short Circuit Protection. The inverter will automatically shut down until short is removed.
• Low Voltage Alarm. An alarm will sound when the voltage from the battery discharges to 10.5 +/- 0.5 volts DC. This is an indication that the battery needs to be recharged.
• Over Voltage Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the input exceeds 16.5 +/- 1 volt DC.
• Under Voltage Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the input is less than 10.0 +/- 0.5 volts DC.
• Overload Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the continuous draw of the equipment being operated exceeds 1200 watts or the surge draw of the equipment exceeds 2400 watts.
• Thermal Protection. The RED LED Indicator Light will illuminate and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when the circuit temperature exceeds 150° F
It is normal to use only half of the capacity of a battery and this is called 50% depth of discharge (DOD) so the watts of a battery is volt X amp hours eg a 12 volt bat @ 200 AH would be 2400 watts but you can only use half of that other wise the battery will be stuffed, so all you have is 1200 watts, if you have a 400 AH battery you would have 2400 watts, you also have to know the capacity of the battery and this is call the C rating of the battery once you have that you can work out how many hours it will run for.
On an of grid system I would not use any less than 6oo to 700 AH @ C100
It is normal to size the batters to energy demand in KWHrs per day of (AC load )
Hope this help.
Inverter output can vary, but anything greater than 150 volts with a high impedance meter (with a capacity of 2000 volts) can be considered good. The meter loads the circuit by itself and normally the RMS voltage that most meters register is lower than the peak to peak voltage of the circuit. If a scope is used, use a 10:1 reduction probe, and your voltages can be anywhere from 300 volts to 1200 volts with 650 to 750 being the normally accepted good range. Where your brightness control is set will have direct impact on the voltage you see.
This will cause big problems. It will not work and will
likely cause both inverters to fail.Power
inverters must create the 60Hz sign wave from a crystal controlled internal
frequency driver.It's like a clock that
keeps the timing at 60Hz. 2 independent units will have slightly different
clocks both in time and frequency.This
would cause the output waveform of one unit to be out of phase with the
second.If they are out of phase, they
will look like loads to each other and likely fail. It would be possible if the inverters had a
way to link their clocks or use only one clock. This could be designed in
however I have never seen this feature.You
can hook up multiple inverters to the low voltage side (12VDC), just don't hookup
their 120VAC output side.Hope this
What does the inverter over 600 Watt.
By what type of battery is the inverter supplied? How many Ah? What is its state?
In order to achieve 1000 Watt for 1 hour you need a fully charged 12 V / 100 Ah lead-acid battery. If your battery is less then 100 Ah and is not very well charged or old (bad) you may not have over 600 W, but not bacause of the inverter, but the battery.
If your inverter stops due to low input voltage (you can see it in the digital display during operation).
If you want to check the real output power of the inverter you should connect it to a big (more than 200 Ah) well charged battery.
Hey, Question: Is the 2400 watt the peak rating or the continuous rating of the unit, and what is your power source for the inverter. If 2400 is the peak, the 1200 is probably the continuous. Your 75 watt fridge will draw probably 150-170 watts to start up, which will load the inverter to draw 15-17 amps of load on your 12 volt power source. If the battery supply is weak, the current draw at startup will cause the voltage to drop and set off the alarm. Getting the start up out of order may work for a while, but will eventually blow the internal fuses on the inverter, or possibly blow out the capacitors. Check the condition of the battery supply, and make sure the bar fridge is in good working order to resolve this problem.
Your inverter has a peak of 3000 watts rating and should power that hair dryer. Make sure your batteries are in good shape. The inverter can only put out what it takes in. 1800 watt demand on the inverter requires 1800 watts from the batteries.
Look at the rating sticker on the oven and use the AC power rating as your guide. The cooking power of the oven is not important, but the power it needs from the AC supply is. Voltage times current is the supply power needed (watts), and you want an oven that will draw less than the inverter's continuous rating, less any power being used by other appliances.
For instance, a microwave rated for 120 volts AC at 10 amps needs 1200 watts. Your inverter would be OK with this as long as other devices aren't using more than another 1000 watts. You can't use the inverter's peak rating. That's only for brief bursts, like when the microwave first kicks on and draws some extra current.
Any mid-power (600 watts or so) oven should be OK.