Question about Harley Davidson HarleyDavidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic Electra Glide

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I have a 1991 flhs and when i turn left or right the engine cuts out ,perfect going straight.its gradually gotton worse and now wont start at all.thers is no kill switch on the side stand and neither on the clutch leaver.ive checked the wires behind the headlight and under the clockes and all the connectors are clean and tight.i checked to see if the plugs are sparking but they arnt now. the ht leads seem clean so iam wondering would the coile cause a problem like that,bearing in mind it was running perfect on the straight until i do a sharp bend

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Rear cylinder not firing

95 Evo, new plugs, new wires, started backfireing like a machine gun, front cyl. no spark at plug sometimes - would this be the coil, have not ohmed the coil yet . Thanks

Posted on May 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: ok here is an update... the crank sensor is about

Ok, I assume that you are talking about the large spark plug wire connections on your coil. The book says that the resistance should be 10,000 to 12,500 OHMs. I would assume that is between the two towers as it does not show the lead connections.

Here's how I test a coil. Turn the switch on and check for 12 volts on one end of the coil. Have a set of plugs in the wires and have them grounded well. Disconnect any wires from the other small connection and connect a temporary jumper wire. Momentarily ground the jumper wire and then remove it from ground. Each time your REMOVE the short jumper wire from ground, you should get a spark from the spark plugs. If not, make sure you still have the 12 volts on the other end and the plugs are well grounded. If this correct and you do not get a spark, your coil is bad.

Posted on Feb 15, 2010

Testimonial: "this is a good way to learn but damn on the soul"

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 sportster 12 evolution,doesnt keep spark to

Harley has been moving things around since 2000 and it makes life tough for people that do what I do. Try to fix bikes over a computer. I used to tell people that I couldn't fix a bike over the phone. LOL

On your bike, I don't know of any way to test the ignition module. Harley has a way to do it if you use a meter exactly like the one they use but I have never seen one of their meters.

Before you spend a lot of money on a new unit, first check your ground on the unit. Check the plug on the unit. It's also got a cam position sensor in the timer cavity on the left side of the engine as best as I can remember. This part is a lot less expensive but I'd rather solve the problem and replace a part rather than replace parts until I solved the problem.

I'd go to the auto parts store and buy a set of Autolite 4164 spark plugs and try those. The two best brands of plugs in my opinion are Autolite's and NGK's. Not those expensive copper or titanium or whatever they are plugs. Those things are made of auto engines that are running a lot hotter ignition system than your Harley is running. In an air cooled motorcycle, the cheaper the plug, the better they run. Don't waste money on the expensive plugs.

Try that, at least it's cheap. If it doesn't work, start checking connections. I'll say this, when a solid state ignition unit it working, it works. When one stops working it's usually for good. They very rarely stop then start back. Look for that loose connection.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

Testimonial: "Steve, Thanks man, you have filled in the spot for me I'll go over it all again...im sure the plugs are ok,bike runs great, aside from loosing fire."

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 93 flhs. evo, bike just

If your bike has been converted to a Crane ignition, all you have is the Crane unit, two spark plugs, two wires, and a coil. Seems you've replaced everything else so the unit is all that is left.

Now, before you replace the unit, you see there are two wires on the hot side of the coil. Make sure you have battery voltage to that side of the coil. A test, take your plugs out and lay one on the engine where you can see it. Turn your ignition switch on, then turn it off. You should see a single spark when you turn the switch off. If so, you're electrical wiring and coil are alright. Your unit is bad. If you don't get a spark, you are not getting voltage to the coil for some reason.

If you are not getting power to the coil, make sure the "Run/STOP" switch is in the right position. If it is, you'll need a schematic to trace the voltage back to the source. I have a schematic for a FXDWG. If you want a copy, send me a personal e-mail at wd4ity@bellsouth.net and I'll send one to you. This forum will not allow for a file over 150Kb. Remind me of what you need.

Good Luck
steve

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: engine wont start. I replaced the coil and plug

To verify that the coil is working, take the plugs out of the heads. Put the plugs back in the plug wires and lay the plug against the head so that they get a good ground. Turn you ignition switch on and then turn it off while watching the plugs closely. They should spark one time when you turn the switch off. If so, your coil is working correctly. It sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Apr 03, 2011

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