Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer
Hi, I have F/P GWL11 top load model. Yesterday I was unable to turn the unit on after the first successful load.
I found out from this website that the 3AMP build in fuse from the controller is blown out. I used the meter to test it and it was blown out. So, I purchased a fuse housing and 3AMP 250v fuses. I also removed the original fuse and replace it with fuse housing to hold new 3AMP 250v fuse.
I got the power after I put all back together with new fuse but once I start to use the machine the fuse get blown out at spin cycle and sometimes it complete the wash successfully and last trigger to turn the system off will blown the fuse out.
I also check the pump from the bottom of the washer and seems ok and it is not grounded either. I did also take out the flywheel and check the coil and seems to be ok. I didn't see anything wrong with it or smell anything.
My question is following:
1. Is the controller blowing the fuse out? Do I need a new controller?
2. Do you think the keypad is causing the fuse to blown out?
With all due respect, there is some rather incorrect information in your response Jidza.
These washers are direct-drive and do not have any transmission, nor does the motor "spin backwards during extract". I think you are confusing a Fisher Paykel machine with conventional motor-driven washers. The "motor" is not a self-contained unit, it is really a "drive unit" consisting of a stationary stator/RPS sensor and rotor that either spins in a circular motion to drive the basket for the extract cycle, or it will "pulsate" to mimick the action of a transmission for the agitate cycle. There is no belt or gears or any of that. It's a brilliant design that eliminates many of the moving parts on the typical American washing machine.
With that said, in regards to the original post, the diverter valve, water pump and water inlet valves all are possibilities for a popped fuse in the controller, as well as a fault in the circuitry in the controller itself. Visual inspection of the pump or a simple continuity test is not enough. You need to check the specific resistance of the coil for the water pump, as it can be out of spec and cause the control to fail.
Some of the other experts do not approve when some of us suggest that obtaining a service manual would be the best cause of action but in this case it is warranted. These machines are not like "conventional" washers, they are, for the most part, electronic in nature and proper understanding of the circuits involved in the various cycles and functions makes servicing them much easier and your chances of sucess in repairing them much greater. You can obtain a detailed service manual for the GWL11 here:
My answer is not intended to insult anyone, I'm trying to help the original poster.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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