Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: my hoover dyn 8164d washing
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Hoover's 'e03' states 'drain timeout'- probably a blocked filter or even jammed drain motor/pump.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
Posted on Sep 07, 2011
Open the small flap at the front bottom right of the machine. DONT unscrew the circular white knob yet!!! Use the small black hose to drain the machine into a tray, by removing the small cap on the end of the hose. You will have to use a tray, rather than a bowl because the hose is only short, and keep emptying the tray.(put a washing up bowl next to the machine, so you don't have to carry the tray.) If water does not come out of the hose, then gently unblock it with a piece of wire or fine knitting needle. When water finally stops coming out of the hose, it is time to gently unscrew the white knob anti-clockwise, and pull it forwards. Now you can clear the debris out of the pump rotor, which is behind the white knob. Check with your finger that it can rotate freely, then replace the white knob firmly. Make sure the small cap is replaced on the end of the hose, clip it back into place and put back the cover panel. If this doesn't work then there is a blockage deeper in the machine, and dismantling will be required. Good Luck!!
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
i am a recently retired engineer of 20 years, but this sounds like (based on the info given) a heater element fault, after the machine fills up and agitates a few times the heater should start, check the heater for open circuit, replace if needed, of course it just could be a wire off? if i have helped rate me please
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
I have similar problem with same model unit, found brushes on motor worn to point copper contact is hitting and scoreing commutator. Easy checked, ensure power completely disconnected, lie machine on side and gently rotate drum looking in side the motor. The commutator is what looks like a circular block of copper segments which will rotate with the drum and should be evenly worn and coated with carbon from the brushes. If you see a clean copper area, usually in the center, then the brushes are worn down below workable levels. Suggest replacing should resolve problem.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
The most common cause of machines stopping mid cycle is not draining. Your machine should have a filter behind the kick plate at the bottom.
If this is not the case please post back for further assistance.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
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Feb 25, 2015 | Hoover Washing Machines
Nov 18, 2012 | Washing Machines
The tacho coil is on the motor and is fitted at the opposite end of the drive belt where the carbon brushes are. This error says something is wrong regarding the tacho coil but it doesn't specify exactly what. Possibilities are varied so unless you know what you are doing, and unless you can see something obvious like the coil has come away from the motor or the motor or drum has seized up it is probably better to call in a professional.
Resistance readings for tacho coils are usually quite high, so if you don't have a sensitive enough meter it could appear to be open circuit when in fact it's reading over 150 Ohms or more and may be ok.
In conjunction with a magnet fitted on the end of the armature shaft each time the motor does a revolution it can be counted by the software or pcb through the tacho coil. This information is used to judge and control the speed of the motor at all times.
If the coil is open circuit the washing machine would lose al control of the motor and in the past the motor would often spin uncontrollable causing damage to the washing machine. These days if an open circuit or missing tacho coil (they can fall off the motor) is detected the machine will stop working and report an error code.
Oct 17, 2012 | Hoover Washing Machines
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