Question about LG Washing Machines

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Rubbery shavings in drum of wft7016pp top loader after every wash

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  • Jeffrey Dimond Jan 16, 2013

    The machine is a top loader, and there is no water leaking from the machine, so I cannot see that it could be a damaged seal.

  • ashley531 Apr 01, 2013

    I have the same problem, and none of the solutions below are helpful. There are no leaks, it's simply that after every wash there are rubber bits inside the machine. It's like a rubber something (what that something is I don't know) has perished in the machine and the bits are coming in through. Did you manage to fix this problem?

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  • LG Master
  • 17,130 Answers

Possible that an inspection on the door seals must confirm this case as it could be worn out or is out of alignment.
Check the drum and door seals to confirm. If so replace the gaskets.
click this link : gasket

Posted on Jan 14, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

SOURCE: washing machine drum is very wobbly

* General tips
* Balance the load
* Level the machine
* Inspect the water pump for a blockage
* Inspect the coupling
* Inspect the transmission
* Adjust the drive belt tension
* Check the motor bearings
* Check the drum brakes

The above are possibly the general remedies for this problem.But possible if the problem still persists after this, possibly the drum bearings might have been damaged during the previous heavy vibrations.Please do post comments.Will be glad to help you out.Good luck.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

news775
  • 699 Answers

SOURCE: How do you take out the drum of a samsung Wa75b7pt

Do not take drum out.
Run a wash without clothes in and put a mild bleach solution inside.

Posted on Feb 07, 2011

  • 6277 Answers

SOURCE: Drum Knocks when washing (Top

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Check and, if necessary, adjust the machine's overall 'balance'.

It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Posted on Aug 01, 2011

  • 6277 Answers

SOURCE: Washing collects a lot of "fatty" soap suds/lint.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Providing your particular model has a filter I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many problems are caused by blocked filters.

Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Posted on Sep 25, 2011

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