Question about Makita DCS51018 18" 45cc Chain Saw 2 Cycle

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Husky 460 chains too long (or is the bar too short)

I got a new 460 last month. The chain was a tad too long for the bar. After a few hours cutting, it was fully adjusted and there was no more room to take up the slack. I had bought a Sthil replacement chain when I got the saw, so I put that on. There was less than a quarter inch left on the adjustment screw when tightened. After a few more hours of cutting, it too had stretched beyond adjustment. I've been cutting for many years and always use Husqvarna. I've never seen this problem on any other saw.

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  • mcfadden586 Jan 23, 2009

    Oops. I meant to put the brand in my initial post. Husqvarna 460 with 20" bar. That's the new model upgrade of the 455 rancher. I can see that happening once (the dealer put the original bar on), but twice?

  • mcfadden586 Jan 26, 2009

    Yes, I follow the standard procedure. I'm taking it to the shop today. Seems the trigger is failing and the kill switch has quit working. This is my fifth Husqvarna (two 55's, a 365, and a 372xp) and I've never had any problems with the earlier ones, except a 55 Rancher that quit idling after a couple of years. No amount of tweaking the carb would permanently fix the problem. The 365 was stolen (hence the 372) and this 460 is supposed to replace the no-idle 55.

  • mcfadden586 Feb 04, 2009

    My first solution was to put on a 18" bar and chain. That had plenty of adjustment room. I then took it back to the dealer. They couldn't do a thing. Seems there's a flaw in the 460 chain cover that puts the adjustor screw in the wrong place. I'm basically screwed with dealing with 71 link chains (I hate that) until/if Husky owns up to the problem and issues a corrected chain cover plate. This saw uses the same 3/8 bar as the 372.



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I'm am guessing the bar is not a stock bar or was miss matched at purchase by the dealer.
Have dealer look up factory bar to see what was original and either go with that or if you already have it. ask for a new rim sprocket with 1 extra tooth. If you don't have a replacable sprocket then best bet would be to have chains custom build which usually is the same price, if they treat you right.
Remember the new sprocket MUST be the same pitch and width of your chain and bar and they do make a large and small ID also.
Last resort If not wanting to trash a new bar or change out sprocket, run a couple chains when they get loose have your dealer take out a link.
Also a stihl 20" can be a 72 drive link chain where a husky could be a 70 or other.
Everything must be matched, hard nose bar is exception.
Bill Czerkie

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • bczerkie Feb 04, 2009

    Add a tooth or 2 on the drive sprocket, should be able to run a 72 then. Will increase chain speed but lower, low end power, but with higher speed it will cut faster just be careful of high speed at no load. why we love to hear them run wide open at no load is just a Man thing, but be careful.

    In the app I m looking at there is a dfferent listing for the 372 and 460 bar.

    Have to look close but one bar fits many saws and the 372 and the other fits many saws and the 460 but niether lists both..

    looks like not 100% iterchangable.


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Hello, your bar may not be seating on the adjusting pin properly.Like you I have cut thousands of cords used every saw made and the only time something like this happens is when the adjuster isn't seating properly. Give me your model number and I'll try and round up a manual for you.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • David Robinson Jan 24, 2009

    I know this sounds dumb but, when you are tightening the chain do you loosen both nuts, lift the tip of the bar up and the tighten the nuts tight. After you do that use the adjusting knob to finish tightening. My Stihl is different but, my ( don't laugh ) Sears Craftsman ( made by Husky ) is the same as yours.



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Own a 450 husky saw tool less and cut 4or5 blocks of wood chain completely loose im tighting goof buy loosens.

Hi Dale:
Here's the process that I use. Have a look and see if it works for you.
1) Slacken the nuts that clamp the bar to the saw.
2) Lift the tip of the bar and hold it up through the next 2 steps.. This will put the most slack to the chain.
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