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Lower element in kenmore 970-6007 range caused voen unit to shut down and become inoperative

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

JULIANFIX
  • 975 Answers

SOURCE: my kenmore electric range 9621 shut down

check inside the stove for some kind of fuse , also check with a multimeter set to OHMS the circuit breaker of the stove to see if theres continuity . hope it helps

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven shuts on & off: Control panel inop at times.

I've been battling with on and off inop problems on the controls of my range. sometimes a good cleaning or turning the circuit on and off has worked, but recently the start button and 1 of the burners stopped working. after surfing through many forums with the same problems, i found 1 with some solution advice that worked great so i decided to revisit some of the sites i surfed for info the forward the advice.....

the ribbon circuits get dirty and simply need tp be unplugged, wiped clean and reattatched. after doing this, my oven is good as new...i hope this helps:)

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: bad lower oven element

Directions

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore range oven model 880, broil element stays on

The F3 E2 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board in the range senses an over-temperature condition in the oven.

This can be caused by a failed temperature sensor probe, a wiring problem between the sensor and the control board, or a failed electronic oven control board.
If the oven is apparently not overheating when this error code appears, then your likely failure is the temperature sensor probe.
If the oven is overheating, then you likely have a failed electronic oven control board due to a stuck relay not cycling the oven heating element off properly.


For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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I have a kenmore model 790.96562602 ceramic top electric range. The right front burner does not heat up.


the heating element inside the unit is broken or split,that one is we need to replace,the problem is,how much the price? and also dont try to replace by it your self,call an authorized service technician to do it,but check the price of part and the labor cost? if so very high,much better to use the unit until the other heating element is become dead,then buy a new one more practical and have an warranty for 1 year compare to replace the part is for 1 month warranty only.

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if lower element tests open with continuity meter then it for sure is bad. i would also check the wire ends that connect to the element and/or the control board, they could have loosened allowing a bad connection and low voltage to elementor burnt off.. most ovens do not use the broil element at all during the bake cycle, only during the broil cycle.. some however do utilize the broil element during baking, but at a lower wattage or something..
best of luck,
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Maytag Model #cre9600cce the broiler works but the bake cycle will not work...all of the burners work. Do I just change the heating element and if so how do I do that?


Its an electric range, believe your lower element is either bad or wire to it burned off or the thermostat or control to it are bad. 
FYI the Broil element is upper and lower element is bake. Just so we are on the same page. Sorry if you already knew this.

The most common thing is a bad lower element where food has "boiled oveer" and got on the lower element causing a cold/hot spot and thus burns it out prematurly. 
Shut off breaker, no power to unit, remove lower element. Inspect wires in back of element if tight and connected, keep wire ends out and test for voltage (usually 220-240 VAC) on the wires. No voltage here then the problem is above at the thermostat or operation selector switch or wiring or a safety  control and may even be in the clock timmer. If you have power there all these items are ok and again go to the element power off. Remove 1 wire which one dosnt matter. test for continuity of the element. It will proably read HIGH or infinity. My guess is anything over 30 to 70 ohms the element is bad.. the part number used to be located someplace on the element. Keep it together and un bent as much as possible becaused you may have to use the measuremants to secure a part number of  a generic element. 
Hope this helps. If so please grade me accordingly and good luck.  

Mar 04, 2009 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

4 Answers

Oven shuts on & off: Control panel inop at times.


I've been battling with on and off inop problems on the controls of my range. sometimes a good cleaning or turning the circuit on and off has worked, but recently the start button and 1 of the burners stopped working. after surfing through many forums with the same problems, i found 1 with some solution advice that worked great so i decided to revisit some of the sites i surfed for info the forward the advice.....

the ribbon circuits get dirty and simply need tp be unplugged, wiped clean and reattatched. after doing this, my oven is good as new...i hope this helps:)

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Gemini MER6769BAW Range/Dual Ovens


depending on type of unit. most of the time they are very easy to change out.. look at element locate two screws. go shut off breaker to oven.. make sure its has no power. after removing screws element should come out fairly easy.. make sure not to let wires fall back inside unit. if so not to worry. just pull unit out from wall and remove back panel. push wire back through. hope this helps

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Avanti er24aw1


Call avantiproducts.com sales (service didn't work) and get a replacement bake element. It was about $35 including shipping. Download the manual from the site and study the structure. Uncover the back cover using standard phillips screw. TO DO THIS, SHUT DOWN YOUR HOME BREAKER AND MAKE SURE THE OVEN OPERATION LUMP DOES NOT LIGHT. OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO HIGH VOLTAGE. Additionaly use multimeter to make sure the voltage is not there. Remove back inner cover. You can't remove this inner cover completely because of the thermostat line but try to make a work space in the lower part of the oven. The bottom element cover can be uncovered readily without any screw or pin. At this point you have access to baking element from the bottom of the oven. Loosen two nuts to remove the bad element. Reverse the procedure to install the new element.

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