How to remove body on top load maytag washer to inspect & lube

It sounds like you have an old Maytag washer. I believe the front panel will come off by removing two screws at the bottom of the unit. aflter removing these the panel will come off by pulling the bottom out first, then followed by the top. Once the panel is removed there will be two 5/16 bolts on either side visible on the inside corners. Remove these. Now you are able to access the water injector assembly by simply lifting the top. One you can see the clear injector housing on the left hand side, you may need to remove a spring type clamp and/or a hose clamp to access the injector. Once the old injector is in your hand you will be able to tell if it is worn or destroyed. In alot of cases it will be loose and stretched and as well there should be a clear tube inside the rubber sleeve. If you did not purchease one you will have to save it and put it in the new one. To make sure it goes in porperly simply make sure that the clear plastic piece goes base to base with the rubber. Hope this helps

Thanks

the timer on all maytag's ( top load turn clock wise/ push in to stop/ pull to start . the spring back ??? the timer shaft may be sticking and is hard to turn . remove face cap and clip pull dial and lube with a light oil or spray lube / reinstall and this moy help .. mm

Here is an exploded view and if you roll over the area it shows more detail. Roll down to the bottom of the shaft below the tub and you will see damper pads. I beleave this is what you want to replace.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Top-Load-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram

This was my fix, my machine that would error out with DC/UC codes.  

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove the clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, good luck!

I found a link on this site

http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16022808.pdf

The clutch needle bearings may need to be lubed, this was my fix;

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove the clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found a link on this site, good luck!

Tom,

Here is a link posted by another member of this site for the Svr Repair manual;

http://www.fixya.com/support/t495521-fav6800_manual  

This will help you trouble shoot issues with this machine.  I removed my clutch and lubed needle berings in the clutch pully and that took care of my issue of DC/UC errors in spin cycle.  Here is a quick note on my repair action.

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a spin cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

the pressure sensor is inside the control panel, the panel is screwed closed from the rear
you initially check that the plastic air line is attached at top and bottom
top is easy
to reach the bottom
the top of the washer must be removed, unlock the two metal clips at the front ~3 inches from the edges by sliding a putty knife or other blunt blade between the front panel and the top
tilt up the top
visully inspect the air line running from the top left to the bottom of the drum/tank

usually the top comes off
test that first,
because if the bottom is off, there would be water running all over the floor as the pressure sensor attaches below water line

if both hose ends are attached remove the top end and blowe down it, any water in the line messes up pressure readings

the water level sensor is adjustable
remove the water level sensor body from the control panel, there is a lock clip on the right side of the control body
there is a 1/8th nut next to the shaft the knob sits on
clockwise to raise water level
counterclockwise to lower water level
if turning the adjuster has no effect, the spring inside has broken, not weakened, and the control body should be replaced.
water level control bodies are common to many models and makes, the local parts store will have a suitable one, even if labelled ge or kenmore instead of maytag

First, UNPLUG YOUR DRYER! Now open the dryer door and remove the 2 screws at the door hinges... remove the door and set aside, then remove the 2 screws opposite the hinges. Grasp the front panel near the top, just below the top panel and pull it toward you... do this on both sides. Tilt the panel forward then lift it off of the lower clips.

With the front panel gone, you'll see a 5/16" screw just below the top panel on both sides, top left and right. Remove these and the clips too... now you can lift the top panel like the hood of your car.

To gain further access, remove the 6 (3 on each side) screws holding the front drum support/blower vent panel, then set this aside.

If you want to remove the drum... first, take a flashlight and look closely at how the belt is routed around the idler pulley and the motor shaft. (You'll have to re-route it for reassembly.) Reach in there with both hands, with one hand rotate the spring loaded idler pulley back to release tension off the belt, then with the other hand remove the belt from the motor shaft. Now lift and pull the drum out the front of the cabinet.

Check to make sure the rollers in the back rotate freely. You can remove the rollers, buff the roller shafts with emery cloth, lube the shaft with light oil (like sewing machine oil) and reinstall the rollers. Lube the idler pulley also. Rotate the motor by hand and listen for the squeak you described.

Also check the front drum support panel you removed earlier. The drum rides on this as it rotates... As you are looking at the drum support from the drum side, inspect the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock area closely. If the glides (teflon) are worn it'll squeak when it rotates.

Hope this helps. Oh yeah! Almost forgot.... the belt won't squeak at all. It'll be the motor, rollers or drum glides.

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.