Question about Refrigerators
The water dispenser sticks. Water or Ice keeps coming out well after I stop pressing the dispenser button. Does anyone have a procedure on how to fix or replace the switch?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No water thru door
OK guys, GE does have a solution to this problem and it's EXPENSIVE. I goofed and called GE repair. $263 later it was fixed. Here's what I've done to villify them:
General Electric Company March 31, 2008
3135 Easton Turnpike
Fairfield, CT 06828-0001 Attn: J. Immelt Dear sir or madam, or whoever opens this because I know Jeff Immelt won't be the actual person to open it. This has already been sent to GE Corporation Appliance Park 6, Room 129 Louisville, KY. 40224 so don't send it to them. Send it to someone who may actually do something about this problem. I have a GE refrigerator, Model GSS25WGPAWW, S# AF 217252 which has had a continuing problem for several years. My first error was in not reporting this sooner. My home is in a gated community in which the developer used GE appliances exclusively. What I have determined now (after I paid for the repair) is that many residents have had the exact same problem: the in-door water dispenser freezes solid. The second mistake I made was calling GE repair to fix the problem. I was charged a total of $ 263.15 for the repair; $ 63.30 for the part, a flat rate of $79.95 for the repairman to show up and then $105.00 labor cost plus tax. Our community has an Internet based communications system ( Googlelist) and I posted the following message there. . My fellow residents responded that GE did fix many of the same problems at no charge after they call GE Customer Care rather than GE repair. Several others have paid for the repair. I then reported this to your sales http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/form_service.htm) department up until the 25th of March , I have received no reply. ____________________________________________________________________________ TO:http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/form_service.htm Just thought you'd like to know: I live in a gated community with over 1400 residents and they all got the following message: Posted on Googlelist-at Herons Glen So my water line to the in-door dispenser kept freezing up. I'd have to turn the fridge off and open the freezer door for up to 5 hours for it to melt. Then 3 or 4 days later it would freeze again. So the GE repair guy came and installed a $63 part in about 20 minutes. It was a heat tape applied inside the dispenser cover. Now for the fun part: $79 just to show up and then $105 "labor" ??? That's about $315 per hour - my kind of job. Oh yea, another $14.90 in taxes. Once I had the part number, I found the part on-line for $42. Forget about it really being a manufacturing defect that should be covered by warrantee. GE does not care! They advertise how "energy conscious" they are and then solve a defect with a heat tape that adds heat to an appliance that's supposed to be cold! Go figure! If this offends any ex-GE employees....GOOD _____________________________________________________________________________________ When I subsequently called GE customer Care on March 25th I was told "we have no recalls on that model and there is nothing we can do". I've gone on-line and searched for "GE water dispenser" problems and, WOW, you've got lots of problems. On March 26 I got a reply from From: email@example.com They gave me a Tracking Number and another phone number to call 1-888-348-7563. I called that number on 3-27-08 and got the same answer: "we have no recalls on that model, have a nice day". My question is: Will GE do something about this? I have $ 263.15 out of pocket cost, a copy of the repair bill is enclosed, for what appears to be a design flaw and that flaw has been repaired for others "at no cost". Sincerely, Tom Morookian 20729 Mystic Way No. Ft. Myers, FL 33917 239-731-3452 Tommorookian@aol.com encl: (1)
The real problem is that the water line is supposed to be installed against the front panel of the freezer door. During assembly they don't do this so some of the lines are against the inside edge of the door, they then "foam" the door and they freeze. The heat tape does fix the problem and you can do it yourself. I'm "GEsucks" for a real good reason. I've posted this on several web-sites and I'm looking for a lawyer to file a class action suit!
Posted on Apr 21, 2008
Frozen water tank, some of these had an insulation kit that will prevent this from happening. Make sure you have water coming out of valve to tank, if so it will probley be a frozen tank. Make sure fridge is on factory settings. If it doesnt thaw out, check into the frozen tank kit...
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
I just resolved an issue with my kenmore elite side by side refrigerator icemaker (model 106).
It was expensive because I took the long road to fixing the unit myself.
My problem: No water going up to the freezer water dispenser into the icemaker but the water in front of the door working just fine.
-first thing i tried was the simplest. The Internet is clogged with this miracle fix of using a hair dryer to melt the frozen water line going to the dispenser output. This is highly unlikely for our model since the water line is protected within the refrigerator frame.
-2nd thing I replaced my water filter (thinking that there wasn't enough water pressure to trigger the solenoid valve. $40, and still no luck.
-3rd thing was I tested for voltage going to the solenoid. No voltage going to solenoid, so I wasted $30 for a new solenoid.....still no water.
-4th thing was I ordered a new IR sensor and receiver (since the reciever end is where the relay that sends the voltage to the solenoid to turn on and allow water to go up to the dispenser).
My IR sender and receiver appeared to be working flakey.
Installed, still no water. $58 BUCKS ON EBAY (EVERYWHERE ELSE $100+)
-I finally removed the freezer front little white door, I TURNED OFF THE FREEZER SWITCH SO NO VOLTAGE WAS PRESENT, removed the release latch underneath the freezer unit and disconnected, and removed the freezer unit to inspect it further.
When I removed the protective white cover that covers the mechanical wheel, I had a few parts come flying out of it. Turns out that the wheel accessories were damaged. THERE ARE NO REPAIRABLE PARTS ON THE FREEZER UNIT. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $39 BUCKS + $9 SHIPPING! $48 BUCKS, SWAPPED THE HARNESS AND BOTTOM COVER, AND IN 20 MINUTES, I WAS BACK IN BUSINESS. STARTED MAKING ICE IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR!!!!!
when in doubt, replace the freezer unit for $48 bucks! 7 out of 10 times it will fix your problems. All techs replace the IR set at the same time too which will set you back another $58 bucks.
Good luck! ;)
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
check for a child lockout button it will look like a tiny padlock ,press and hold for 3 sec.(could be the freezer door light switch)
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
SOURCE: water/ice dispenser sticking on
We had a problem with the water/ice dispenser on our 5-year-old LG SxS Refrigerator (LRSC 26930TT). In a panic to stop the water flow, the rubber activator boot was pulled off. The dispenser stopped once the button attached to the back of the boot was removed. Nothing was physically broken (i.e., parts intact) but the challenge was to get things (especially the boot) back in place. The key for me was to use patience: researched Internet for pointers (not too helpful), looked for schematics (even less fruitful) and exhaustively examined the panel on refrigerator (to help reverse engineer). Okay, here’s how I disassembled and reassembled without breaking any tabs or other pieces. Assuming your unit is similar, the panel is on the freezer door on the left side. You can lock the dispenser (using panel button) to preclude undesired water/ice while working. Note: the outer bezel (edge of panel) is secured by screws and should not be messed with. The main panel has tabs on all four sides. I used three screwdrivers (small to average in size) to pry the panel off. Pry the main panel working through the seam between the bezel and panel. Work your way around starting from the lower left or upper left corner. Each side of the panel has 3 or 4 tabs. Methodically work your way around using moderate force to pop the tabs loose. Once the panel is loose, you’ll need to disconnect the electrical connector at the upper left. The plug comes off and reattaches easily…don’t pull on the wires, use the plastic connector itself. Wiggle the panel free. Now you can get to the back of the boot retention bezel…the ultimate goal. Carefully push the bezel’s securing tabs (x3) through the panel and reattach the rubber boot. I used needle nose pliers to carefully pull each rubber nib through their applicable hole on the bezel. Now leave the boot/bezel assembly to the side—it’s the last step to reassembly. Note how the main panel tabs fit into their receiving slots/flanges. Reattach the electrical connector, snaps right on, and maneuver center of panel into recessed area, around ice chute/water nozzle. Slide the right and bottom sides on first—flanges, not slots for tabs—then align remainder of panel. Using moderate force, pop (punch) the remaining tabs back into their respective slots. The main panel will seat over the bezel. Now align and snap boot/bezel back into place. Finis! (No guarantees, but this procedure worked like a charm for me.)
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
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