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Re: won't turn on
Hello DeanFro, Happy to assist you,
You said, unit was working fine, but now it's dead. is there any troubleshooting
steps available. there are two circuit boards and there is no obvious
problem like blown fuses etc...
1.Try to unplug the unit for 5 minutes and then restart it. To see if this resets the system. 2.If not then it is a freon leak or thermostat that bad! If you one year warranty for parts and labor. And if you bought it before 2006, then you have 5 years for the compressor.
You sound like you need a hands on tech to diagnose the problem. Bless You, Please give me a good rating prior to leaving the site. Thank You
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It needs to be determined wether it's a dead short or the compressor is bad. A dead short is when the hot (colored) wire is in contact with the neutral (white) wire in a 120 V system.
I would get to the compressor connection box and disconnect the power from the compressor and turn the circuit breaker on. If it trips, it's a wiring problem. If it doesn't trip, the compressor is shorted internally.
As an alternate test to disconnect the compressor, you can turn the thermostat to off and reset the breaker, if it trips, then it's a wiring problem, if it doesn't trip and as soon as you turn the thermostat to on, then you must go to disconnecting the compressor and check it again with the compressor disconnected.
Other tests, an electrical meter is required.
Yup you bet, all you need to do is connect a $15 temperature control you can get from any appliance store, fix it to the back of the machine and find a way to ge the probe into the fridge, wire it In series with the compresser and bang you have a working cooler.
If you need more info just let me know
Hi, The first step you need to do is to turn the water off to the refrigerator so it quits making until you get it fixed. If your fridge has the control boards in each side of the freezer cabinet that controls the icemaker, then you have a failed board. If you have a standard icemaker with the metal shutoff arm then you have a failed motor module in the icemaker. You can remove the icemaker and unplug the wiring connector from it so you can leave the water on to the dispenser.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com
purchase a AC to DC adaptor and use the 12volt power cord plugged into it.. these are commercially available, just make sure you purchase an adaptor that can handle the power used by the fridge which is on the back of the unit.
If you are sure that power is getting to the ice maker unit inside the freezer and you're sure that water is available for the ice maker...
Try these next steps:
Follow the water line for the ice maker back to the ice maker water solenoid
Follow the wiring from the water valve to its source - either a timer or circuit board
Check the timer and/or circuit board for any bad connections, burned connections and power to the board or timer. This arrangement can vary by refrigerator model number...
Hi, Well not much to go on but this is not a complicated unit. Please bear with me as we go back and forth for this type of long distance troubleshooting. The control board on this type of unit uses ambient temperature and that is what should be displayed when first turned on. Knowing that; the unit will not run if the setpoint is lower than the ambient temp. The unit operates on 27F degree difference from ambient. So lets do this, unplug the unit, remove your stuff if any, open the door for a couple hours till the unit stabilizes to room temp. Close the door, plug the unit back in and note the display. Move the setpoint to just below whatever your room temp is, if there are dashes it indicates a temp problem or the sensor that needs to know the difference. Good for now, let me know. Thanks and Good Luck!
is it a kit-aid refrig???? if so i would look to the wire harness under hinge, 7 or 8 wires runnig through hinge creating a pinch point and shearing wire(s), only solution offerd by kit aid is door replacement (harness not available, molded into door) but at close to $700 for a new door some well placed solder mends the connections quite well( wire nuts to big)
I had the same problem. My 18-month old Haier HVT 12A wine cooler stopped working. I unplugged the unit, opened the back, and saw the circuit board and the two fuses soldered to the circuit board. The top fuse was OK. The bottom fuse, labelled FUSE2 5A/250V on the circuit board, was blown.
I went to Radio Shack and purchased a spring-loaded push and twist fuse holder ($3) and a bag of fuses (another $3). I soldered the leads from the fuse holder to the top and bottom of the dead fuse 2, inserted a new fuse, plugged it in, and it has been working fine ever since (1 month). If the new fuse fails, it is easy to replace. Total cost $6.