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GE Monogram Model ZET8575YSS 30" Double Wall Oven Self Clean does not start

Self Clean does not work

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Dacor ECS230 Epicure Electric Double Oven

You probably tripped a safety thermostat in the back of each oven. If you turn off the breaker and find a way to pull the units out you could probably remove the rear panel and reset the thermostat by pushing in a button on the back of the open thermo. Some thermo's aren't resettable though so you'd have to buy a replacement.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Self Cleaning Cycle for Oven

I lost the instruction manual for my Whirlpool 30" Electric Built-In Double Oven and want to clean it. Can I get instructions for how to set the cycle for self-cleaning, etc.?

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: GE Elec oven JT952-30" blinks the "lock" after self-clean

Try unplugging power cord or trip circuit breaker, to cut the power to the appliance, then wait one or towo hours for the oven to cool down completely.

If the door stays locked, then there is a fault, probably a faulty temp probe that had blown because of high temperatures generated on self cleaning, or a defective control assembly. In that case you will need to call a technician to take apart the oven and fix the fault.

Enter model number here to find assembly diagrams and parts.



Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP56 double oven controls OK top OK bottom no heat

have you inserted the business card as described in the solutions?

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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1 Answer

GE monogram double oven . Self cleaning top oven and F9 in red showing and beeping noise


F9 is a problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, it's probably a problem with the lock mechanism.

A common problem on many built-in GE ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes the panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen behind it is clean.

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Failure to clean code
I have two Monogram ovens but they are not adjacent to each other top and bottom but are separate in different areas of the counter. I did the self clean for both ovens for the first time and one oven had the F9 error code about 1 hour and 45 min into the clean and the other did not sound a code.

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1 Answer

F9 error message during self cleaning cycle


Hello,F9 error means there is a problem with the lock switch.Check the wiring to the door lock switch (the wire harness may be connected wrongly).Check for stuck lock switch.
Thanks



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1 Answer

GE Monogram Trivection - self-clean cycle with oven racks in


Hello- First off, do not use 'self clean', or as most Techs call it: "Self- Destruct".  This 'feature' cheerfully sold by the salesman destroys more oven and range components than any other failure. Now- the racks had a thin layer of grease on them when the oven tried to turn stuff inside the oven to ash.  The grease is now a hard rubbery coating on the surface of the rack.  To solve this problem, you must determine by observation, where the rack touches the sides of the oven. These contact areas need to be cleaned thoroughly with scotchbrite and a small portion of oven cleaner. Make sure you use gloves. Sliding rack in and out to 'mark' these small spots works pretty good.  Once cleaned and wiped down, they should work fine. I recommend cleaning by removing as much 'stuff' by scraping and wiping down with moist cloth.  Turn on to 450deg for 30 min.  Much safer, less costly.                                                       Please acknowledge this posted solution if helpful.  Have more info if needed-  Thanks  -Ed

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Usually the knob type controls uses the bulb for temperature regulation. There is usually only one adjustment available - otherwise the thermostat has to be replaced. - that dial with the temperature graduations on it. the whole unit - the bulb in the oven is connected to it.

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There is usually a micro switch that is activated when the lock lever is in place - very likely this switch is still activated or has failed closed (defective) .

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1 Answer

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I believe this is because it takes a while for your oven to cool down (the cleaning cycle uses a very high temperature to burn up the grease and food). The timer is how long it takes before it will be cool, at which time the oven will unlock.

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