Question about Sharp AQUOS LC-60LE633U 60" 1080p LED-LCD TV - 16:9 - HDTV 1080p - 24 Refurbished

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Power light flashing 5 times fast and then 2 slow flashes

Won't turn on, just shows the flashing lights. Tried unplugging it and plugging it back in and nothing works.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: No POWER

How many times does the POWER led flash per second? (Dont worry about the OPC).

1x (steady constant blink) = Lamps or inverters
2x = Power Supply
3x = Main Unit

If i am reading it correctly, looks like the POWER led is flashing 2x, which means it is a power supply failure. Either way, your TV needs to have a board replaced, there isn't anything you can do to fix it yourself. Try locating your local sharp authorized service center to repair your TV (1-800-237-4277)

Posted on Mar 16, 2008

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: flashing red light

Your power supply is faulty I'm afraid. Unless you have soldering skills, I am afraid you will need to contact a professional TV repair person. If you feel confident to try the repair, contact me with the model number, and I will let you know what components you need to change

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

dsacco86
  • 1077 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp LC-26D43U Power light flashes and unit won't turn on?

It's a power supply related problem. When it turns itself off, this it called protection mode. The TV automatically turns off to protect other parts form being damaged.
The most common problem is the Power Supply Unit or the Backlight Inverter Board.
You may have to take the TV to a repair shop to find out which one is bad. Paying a repair shop to replace the board for you maybe more than the TV is worth. If you let them diagnose it and you replace the bad circuit board yourself, it would be cheaper.

Here's a place I use to get parts for TVs:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=LC-26D43U&p=1
The problem is the repair shop may charge you double or three times of what the part costs at the web site link above. Then, plus labor. I just want to save you money. :)

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: turn tv on , doesnt go on, makes click sound and

Hold the power button (on the TV in until the power light goes off (sometimes takes 10-15 seconds). Once light goes out, hold power button again until TV comes on...

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • 148 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Aquos LC30HV4U stopped working

You are in luck!..The units poowerboard is overheating and since you have it taken apart already this is the fix for you!...Check the popped capacitors in the metal box you find on the back of the actual screen inside the unit...This is a very common problem,m so I've helped many this way and wrote a general post on the how to's of diagnosing and repairing the problem, follow these steps and your tv ill be good as new for less than $5.00 before feb 5 th!! :P...Here it goes (please rate if this works out :D).....................The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol!

If this has helped anyone (or not) then please rate, thank you!

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

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Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852


Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
********
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Jan 04, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

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