Question about Mackie SRM-450 System
I had unmounted bass speaker and its cables touch each other wile powered on. Fuse went of. First I tried bridging fuse poles with screwdriver but no lights turned on, then I replaced fuse but keep burning it, seems there is a short circuit somewhere. I visual checked motherboard and found no sights of burning elements. Any idea what can go off after such things I did?, I would appreciate any inputs other than the obvious "send it to technical service" Regards
Your Power Output Devices got fried, if you look the pcb there's an array of devices attached to the main heatsink with screws, Q34/Q35, MJE2955/MJE3055, check them as a starting point, hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 08, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
T14 is part of the +15v power supply that feeds the input board.
It is actually a transistor.
If this is the only problem on the board, then this transistor could be resoldered back on but you will have to make sure it tests OK and it attaches to the heatsink the same way it came off. ie make sure it is electrically isolated from the heatsink
It seems if there is no fuses blown on the power amp board you might be one of the lucky ones.
In my opinion this amp is a clever design but is under-engineered for robustness
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
SOURCE: I have a pair of
you have one of two problems.1) the woofer is blown(most likely) or 2) the crossover is fried(rare). Take the woofer out and press on the speaker cone(softly). If there is a scratchy feeling when you move it or if it doesn't move at all, you'll either need a new woofer, or get that one reconed.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
SOURCE: drivers burn
We sell a replacement diaphragm for your speaker. Simply replace the bad diaphragm with a new one.
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Posted on Jul 21, 2009
When it goes off, try pressing gently on the speaker membrane (you'll probably need to remove the protective mesh to do that).
If the speaker comes on for an instant or so when you press the membrane, then the cause is a broken braid wire at the back of the speaker (it goes from the connection terminal on the speaker itself to the speaker cone where it is connected to the speaker coil wire and glued to the cone to keep it firmly in place).
If this turns out to be the case, the braid can be resoldered at the point where it is damaged / broken (you need good soldering skills to do it, also the braid needs to be cleaned well which is a bit tricky because of its structure, and solder won't stick to it well if it's not clean).
The solder point should be firm, but as small and short as possible because the braid needs to remain flexible at all times since it moves when the speaker is operating.
An alternative to braid resoldering is to replace the speaker, but there may be speaker repair shops around where you can get it fixed.
The problem may as well be something else, the above is just one of the things that you can check and possibly fix by yourself.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
Testimonial: "sounds feasible will look into that soon altho away for some weeks yet so cant try immediatly TS"
SOURCE: hello there i have a
The most common cause of this is a blown horn. A replacement can be ordered from Mackie directly. Remove the screws that hold the plastic horn in place. At the rear of this part will be the tweeter assembly that unscrews from the horn. This needs to be replaced.
Another possibility is that the tweeter driver has broken from the horn itself and is inside the cabinet. Remove the horn and you may find that the aluminum part has broken. Replace the horn which comes with that part and you should be fine.
Posted on Jan 12, 2011
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