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Need to reset repeater to new hub

Had to have a new hub but the repeater turns all our equipment back to the old hub's details

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Key chain button


need which button?

can you explain the problem in detail?

Oct 06, 2008 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Toshiba SD3950SU quit reading discs after playing an old disc. It will still play the old disc


The optical pickup unit might need replacement. Visit this site for more details. Type in the site name "Electro-help" either Google or Yahoo search box [not in the address bar of your browser], and click search. It is an electronic equipments service help site. All details you want are there. Note the position of hyphen in between words in site name, when you type it in. The site will appear as it is in web; subtitled as Service help to electronic home entertainement equipments.

Pull up older posts. You can get all details.


Site is listed in Google, and you can locate it either at the bottom part of first search page, or at the top of second page.

Click on associated ads too. Sometimes, it might help you.

May 30, 2012 | Toshiba SD-3990 DVD Player

1 Answer

Bike rim change 26x1.95 to 27x1.25 on Mountain bicycle


If you're saying you want to keep your old hubs and install roadie-sized rims so you can use road-friendly and efficient tires you're looking at an expensive and wasteful project. The hubs would be the only parts that are potentially re-usable. I seriously doubt the rims you have right now are 1.95" wide. I have several mountain bikes and many wheelsets and not a single one that I can't put anything from 26x2.25 to 26x1.10" tires on. At 100-plus psi the little tires are hard as rocks and roll nice.

If you DON'T have disc the whole project is a non-starter becuase you can't arbitrarily change wheel sizes on a rim-brake-equipped bike. Disc brakes would require you to have disc-specific hubs so search the web for "700c disc wheelset" that match your disc size (if you have disc).

If you want to DIY you'll need some special tools and skills.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/wheel-and-rim-service

Then you'll have to select rims and find an online spoke length calculator so you can order the precise lengths you'll need, assuming you have data for your rims and your hubs.

Look online or eBay, too.

A Bike Shop might be willing to lace on new rims and spokes to your hubs but it will be expensive and you would be destroying presumably fucntional MTB wheels. By the time it's all ordered and installed it would probably have been cheaper and more reliable to have just purchased new wheels.

Jul 19, 2011 | Cycling

1 Answer

I have an old GE Weathertron which still works (except I need a new fan). The unit is about 30 years old, but some goob from Dave's H & AC screwed it up and they had to send a new guy (who...


Use sandpaper to sand the motor shaft.
Then,
Lots of WD40 on the shaft and hub. Wait for it to penetrate.
Then hold the shaft with pliers between the hub and the motor and twist the fan blade right and lft to loosen it.
Try and pull it off.
If that does not work you will need a blade pulling tool.

May 25, 2011 | GE Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How to replace right front wheel bearings


What you'll need:

  1. Large adjustable wrench and Channelocks.
  2. Bearing race driver tool or various size punches.
  3. Socket and ratchet set or assorted wrenches.
  4. BFH.
  5. Lots of rags.
  6. New wheel bearings.
  7. Wheel bearing grease.
  8. New cotter pin.
  9. New grease seals.
  10. Wheel blocks.
  11. Safety glasses.
  12. A jack and a pair of jack stands.
  13. Rubber gloves (Optional)

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  1. First remove the bearing cap. This is a press fit and to remove it grab it with your Channelocks and work it back and forth until it pops off. Be careful not to crush it as you remove it.
  2. Once the cap is off you will see a cotter pin, Remove the cotter pin and remove the retainer ring. If your vehicle has a castellated nut, you will not have a retaining ring.
  3. Using your Channelocks or adjustable wrench, remove the nut from the spindle.
  4. Now remove the outer wheel bearing and washer and lay it aside.
  5. Slide the rotor or drum off the spindle. This may be difficult, but it will come off. Don't worry about hurting the grease seal; we're going to replace it anyway.
  6. Now that the rotor or drum is off, use a suitable tool to remove the grease seal and take out the inner wheel bearing.
  7. Using some of the rags wipe all the old grease from inside the hub.
  8. Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race.
When both races are out, clean the inside of the hub with some rags. Also make sure the spindle is clean as well. You can even use some carburetor cleaner to do a really good job of cleaning. From this point on cleanliness is important. You do not want any dirt, sand or metal chips inside the hub.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.
Now that everything is nice and clean, let's put the new races and bearings in.
  1. Take one of the new races and coat the outside with some wheel bearing grease. This will help it slide into the hub. If you have a race driver, select the proper size and tap the new race into the hub. Make sure you drive it in evenly and do not **** it. If you don't have a race driver, use your hammer to tap the outside of the race to get it started making sure you tap evenly around the race. When it is flush with the hub, use your flat narrow punch and drive it in the rest of the way. Make sure it is fully seated. The sound of the tapping will change when it's seated and you can look from the other side to visually confirm this.
  2. Do the same for the other race.
  3. If you don't have a bearing packer, you will need to pack them by hand. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of your hand. Slip the wheel bearing on your index finger like a ring with the wide end facing out. Then tap the bearing into the glob of grease until you see it coming out the other side. When you see it come out turn the whole bearing, don't just rotate it on your finger, and repeat the procedure until the whole bearing has grease coming out the other side. Repeat this for the other bearings.

  1. Now that we have the races installed and bearings packed, we can put everything back together. Starting with the inner bearing put a bed of grease on the surface of the race and then push the inner wheel bearing into it. Take the new grease seal and tap it into place, don't bend or distort it. You can use a small block of wood to help.
  2. Put a coating of grease inside the hub between the two races and on the spindle -- too much is better than too little. If any moisture should happen to get inside, the grease will keep the metal from rusting.
  3. Slide the brake rotor or drum straight onto the spindle. It should slide on easily. If it doesn't, the bearing is cocked a little. Slide it off and make sure the bearing is sitting flat and try again.
  4. Once it's on, grease the outer race and slide the outer wheel bearing on. Slide the washer on. The washer will probably have a tab that will align with the spindle, make sure that you line them up when you put it in.
  5. Place the nut on the spindle and tighten it by hand until it won't go anymore. Spin the rotor or drum a few times back and forth and then tighten the nut more by hand. This insures that the bearings are seated. Do it a couple of times until you can't get it any tighter by hand.
  6. Now tighten the nut ΒΌ turn, no more than 16 foot-pounds. If you have a castellated nut, line it up with the hole going through the spindle. Install a NEW cotter pin. If you have a retaining ring, place it on the nut and install the pin. Never reuse the old cotter pin and make sure you use it.
  7. Put a small blob of grease on the inside of the dust cap and tap it into place, being careful not to crush it. Make sure it is fully seated.That's it, you're ready to roll nice and smooth!

May 06, 2011 | Geo Storm Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you change the front passenger side wheel bearing on a 1997 Chevy Blazer 4 wheel drive? Need detailed instructions.


Once the truck is on jack stands remove the brake caliper and rotor. The hub assembly should slide right off at that point. The wheel bearings are actually sealed in the hub assembly which is kind of nice because then you don't have to deal with grease packing the bearings. Just slide the new hub assembly back on. Put the rotor and caliper back together and you should be good to go. Hope this helps you.

Feb 12, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Removal of hub


Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is.
I'm assuming this is 4wd?
1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor
2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs
3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub.
4. Remove snap rings, brake shoe and thrust plate in order to get to brake drum. The brake drum has 3- T20 Bit Screws in it which you will need a T20 Driver for. Remove that Drum to get to the Adjusting Nut which is a 53mm nut. I used a 54mm sunken open ended wrench/socket, turned the hub, thus, loosening the screw. (By the way, mine was hand turnable, check that first but plan on having something that fits it to tighten it. You can 'borrow' a bearing adjuster nut kit from most pep boys....also, you can push in the axle, CAREFULLY, in order to get a more shallow socket over it)
5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass.
6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?)
7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft.
8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race.
9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.

I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.

DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)

Good luck, Seasmith!

Apr 20, 2009 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Maclaren quest pushchair.


Ok, I will try to do this step by step.
1. Place flat screw driver under hub cap and pry off (these we will reuse later).
2. Using diagonal pliers, cut star locks from axle, you should have received new one from Maclaren when you got the wheels, if not you will need to get those.
3.Repeat this process for each wheel.
4. Take off the old wheels and put the new ones on. Put on the new star locks (I use a small hammer), put the hub caps back on and viola, new Mac wheels.

Mar 23, 2009 | Maclaren Quest sport - Placid Blue...

1 Answer

Bt home hub advanced options


by defauly the username is admin ,password is admin if did not work ,wat is the color of the hub white or black , and the lights on in the home hub to identify the model of the hub. for the old model hub at the back u need to press the wireless button for 15 secs to reset for new version u will find a reset to default at the right side of the hub. then go to  192.168.1.254 it will ask to reset the password , enter the serial no at the back of the hub which starts with CP and enter the password of ur choice and login and the user name remains the same and the password u entered

Sep 03, 2008 | RCA Thomson Digital Cable Modem (DCM305R)

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