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Is it true that you have to change the surface of your ramp once or twice a year after your ramp is complete?

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It all depends on the surface Skatelite lasts well over 4 years and so does polyboard if you look after it.

Posted on Jan 13, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Driving cars up ramps on slippery surfaces


I cant take credit for this one, but I do have an improvement. do your ramps "skate" accross the smooth garage floor as you try to drive up them? Same thing in gravel? An old tie down or seat belt strapped to the top of the ramps and placed under both wheels on the same side of the ramp will stop it from sliding away. For better results, my improvement is to fasten the strap around the drive wheel so it is essentially a pully making sure the ramp goes under the wheel.
*****disclaimer Note that ramps are really dangerous, make sure there are other people around, underneeth, infront, behind, or anywhere else. be careful, its easy to launch off ramps or put them all the way underneeth the car.

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Ordinary you do not have to take the deck off if you can run the tractor up on a ramp. Can make one out of 2x6. Run up on the ramp and block wheels then get the wrenches you need and lay down on your back and-work that way. I sharpen mine that way twice a year. I use vice grips and snap on the frame to keep blade from turning.

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Hi, I'm not completely sure how yours is mounted but if your intent is to change the bulbs and or steeper motor, one very wise bit of information I received when I took mine apart was to make sure to mark the true zero position of all gauge set pins before removing cover to access circuit board and steeper motors. To do this I placed small piece of tape on cover near all zero positions of each gauge, moved all gauge pins to true absolute zero position, marked the tape where the pin is at, then safely removed pins with a dining fork for easy even leverage preventing cracking the gauge pins. Once you complete your repair, simply press gauge pins back in place and dial them to properly align them back to the actual zero marks you made on your tape. My project (bulb replacement) was perfectly successful and glad to have gauges read correctly without having to do the job twice, good luck with yours!

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Step 1: Place car on jack stands or car ramps ( i prefer jack stands because i had a car ramp collapse on me once. not fun) and block the back tires.
Step 2: Loosen and remove the oil pan drain plug and drain oil into a drain pan
Step 3: Look on the outer edges of the oil pan and you will see bolts going all around the outside of the pan. Loosen them and the pan should come off.
Step 4: clean the surface where the gasket comes into contact with the engine, and if you are using the same oil pan peel the old gasket off and clean the surface on the oil pan where the gasket goes.
Step 5: Place the new gasket on the oil pan and stick the oil pan up onto the engine and stick a few bolts in on each side. Make sure the gasket stays aligned with all the bolt holes. You may use some RTV on the gasket but if the surfaces are good and clean you shouldnt have to
Step 6: tighten all the bolts to spec according to the repair manual for your vehicle
Step 7: Fill your engine with the correct type and capacity and then start the engine up and check for leaks
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Ignore everything above - most of the time this is an easy fix. Usually, it happens with a brand new console, or a machine that has reset itself.

Hold down the incline up (on the console itself) button and the start button at the same time. Then follow the instructions on screen.

It will run through an initial calibration, and once complete, the ramp will now work. Just did this with mine, and my ramp is now working perfectly.

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When you removed the head the 1st time, did you send it in to the machine shop to have it surfaced and check for cracks? By having it surfaced, the machine shop makes to head's mounting surface perfectly flat. If you didn' have the head surfaced the 1st time, the head may have been warped causing the head gasket to fail the 2nd time.

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post your email i will send you the book there are too many things to check via posting here

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cap is worth about 16 dollars the surface ignitor around 40 there is a ball style that can be moded sometimes with a kit . the wafer type are prone to breakage if there is a lot of vibration in the house or possibly your furnace blower cage is bad.around 60 for that. i think your getting taken

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