Question about Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side Refrigerator

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I need to know how change 3-1 relay overload capacitor for my fridge, it have 2 power wires so i don't not were atached this two wires

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The two power wires go to the incoming power to the compressor, then there should be three other wires that go to the common/start/run terminals on your compressor.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

  • Todd Born
    Todd Born Jan 23, 2009

    the two power wires go to the incoming power to the compressor, then there should be three other wires that go to the common/start/run terminals on your compressor.

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2 Answers

Replacing a relay and overload protector with a 3 n 1 hardstart


2 BLACK WIRES IS POWER. ONE GOES TO NEUTRAL, ANOTHER TO THE HOT WIRE(LINE) AND IT DOES NOT MATTER WICH YOU WILL HOOK UP AS LONG AS ONE OF THE BLACK WIRES HAS NEUTRAL, ANOTHER ONE POWER. AND BLACK IS GOING TO COMPRESSOR COMMON PIN, WHITE TO START PIN OF THE COMPRESSOR AND RED TO RUN. I HAD ON THIS REFRIGERATOR START AND RUN CAPACITORS, I ILLUMINATE THOSE - THEY CAN NOT BE IN THE CIRCUIT WITH 3 N 1 HARD START KIT. SOME COMPRESSOR HAVE THOSE CAPACITORS, SOME NOT. I DID NOT UNDERSTAND WHY THIS ONE HAD CAPACITORS IT WAS ONLY 1/3 HORSEPOWER. HOPE THIS HELP YOU.

Jan 01, 2014 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frcapacitor


does the compressor have thermal overloads?

that might be part of the issue if it does not want to restart for awhile.

Aug 15, 2013 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not sure how to wire Supco RO41 Relay/Overload Combo to Maytag side by side Fridge MSD2454GRW. It's a universal part, so it's different than the manufacturer's part, but I just want to see if...


while i loath those RO41 because your compressor will be dead SOON. The 2 black wires connect to the wires were connected to the wiring on FACTORY RELAY AND OVERLOAD WHICH WAS ORIGINALLY CONNECTED TO WHERE THE RED/WHITE/AND BLACK WIRES WITH THE TERMINALS NOW ARE.

my advice though is throw that thing in the trash and get factory OEM relay and overload

Aug 17, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Fridge. Fridge stopped cooling and came home to water on floor. Everything defrosted onto kitchen floor. Attempted changing settings, stil not cold enough. I checked for clicking sound and I...


Hi Rob and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

You are pretty much on the mark as far as what the problem may be. There are some other things that can cause this also. First off you did not include a model number so I do NOT know if you have and electronic or mechanical defrost control. I reallly need the model numebr for parts info and to point you in th right direction. Another thig that can cause this is the defrost temp sensor. This can be a bi-metal 60 deg F thermostat or a thermostor depending on your model number. If the temp sensor quit working it will never terminate the defrost cycle. Since you said you can hear a fan running (any fan) I have to assume the defrost cycle has terminated so this points back to a compressor issue.

POWER OFF! i.e unplugged.

Troubleshooting the compressor
Remove the Start relay and termal overload together. Once removed you will see 3 compressor terminals
C
R
S

Do a continuity test R to S. You should read continuity
Read C, R and S individually to the case of the compressor. You should NOT read continuity. If you do read continuity the compressor windings have failed.
You should also read continuity C to R and C to S.

Last test is the capacitor test. Unhook one wire from the capacitor.... set the meter to R x 10,000 and probe the terminals. Reverse the leads and probe again. You should see a brief jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity eavh time your reverse the leads and probe the capacitor. If thei passes it does NOT need changed. (usually)

If all of these pass the continuity test:
Change all 3 of these components
PTC relay
Thermal overload
Run capacitor (only if it failed the test above)

Test after changing parts.

Here is the kicker... to do the last test you need KNOWN GOOD parts in place so as much as I hate to have you waste moeny on the parts above... it is s must do before doing this last test..

Here is final test. On the side of the compressor there is a label with the letters LRA (Locked Rotor Amperage) followed by and amperage value 13.7Amps + on most units but not more than 22Amps. If your unit is drawing this kind of amperage (equal to or slightly greater than the LRA value) the comressor rotor is locked and it must be replaced.

That is pretty much compressor troubleshooting 101.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Jul 01, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My fridge is clicking at the control panel, and it quit cooling and freezing.


Most likely your PTC start relay on the compressor has failed
It is item 733 of this diagram: PN: WR07X10052
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Hotpoint-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-HSS25GFPAWW/1811/0165000/H3090204/00008?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=HSS25GFPAWW

When a PTC relay fails I most always change the overload and the capacitor also. The reason for the overload change is that as of this moment it is still cycling and they do age and stop performing properly. The capacitor.. just so you have a known good one.

The capacitor is item 729 above link.
The thermal overload is item 735 above link.

You may get by without changing item 735 (the overload..) but if it does not cycle in 40 - 45 seconds after a brief power loss it should be changed. You can test it by unplugging the unit for 45 seconds and then plugging it back in. The system has not stabilized so the compressor will NOT start, yet the thermal overload will cycle every 4 minutes or so depending on temps. Once the thermal overload is cycling you must unplug the unit for 15 minutes to allow for coolant system pressures to stabilize and compressor temp to drop.

Before you order parts... try un-plugging the unit for 30 minutes and then plug it back in. It may start.

If not.. we do a continuity check of the 3 compressor terminals individually to the case of the compressor. (NO SHORTS or grounds are allowed!) If there are shorts.. the compressor is bad. The next step (no shorts) for sure is the PTC relay and capacitor change. If it still cycles at this point you must change the thermal overload. If at this point it still does not operate normally most likely the compressor rotor is locked. (compressor change)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly






Jun 19, 2011 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

2 Answers

Fride not cooling on eather side..


I believe your start relay and capacitor need replaced or the compressor is defective. Don't allow it to continue to try to start until we can find the problem. Let me know, Sea Breeze

Apr 23, 2009 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

4 Answers

Kenmore Fridge; started w/clicking noise, not it's no longer cool


The noise is the overload. The compressor is trying to start and because it cannot start the overload clicks when the circuit is broken to compressor. Yes the problem could be the relay. The relay should be beneath the cover where the wiring goes into compressor. It could also be the start capacitor that the relay uses to start the compressor. When the thermostat tells the compressor to start the relay momentarily come on with stored voltage to bump start the compressor. Once the compressor starts the relay opens to prevent the no longer stored voltage from going to compressor. In short we need to unplug the refrigerator and open back near compressor to view and remove the cover that the wires go into. Mark the wire connections and see if you can get one of your local refrigeration stores to check the capacitor and start relay. You can do all of these by purchasing a three in one start capacitor and relay designed for you refrigerators size. But before you do all of these things get back with me so we can test the compressors windings. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Mar 23, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I NED TO CONECT 3-1 RELAY OVERLOAD CAPACITOR IN MI FRIDGE


first take all the relays and capacitor off of compressor , then attach black wire with terminal on "C" terminal post usually top terminal, white wire with terminal goes on "S" terminal post on compressor, red wire with terminal goes on "R" terminal post on compressor. then take the two black wires one connects to white neutral wire and the other connects to the black power wire if tis fridge has a condensor fan then you will also need to connect it two the two black wires also thanks hope this helps

Jan 23, 2009 | Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side...

1 Answer

Whirlpool fridge not cooling gone warm air blowing


more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.

Jan 16, 2009 | Whirlpool GS6NBEXR Side by Side...

1 Answer

No cold in fridge or freezer: buzzing compressor


There is no start motor. If the brand of the compressor is a tecumpseh then it is most likely the problem and has a 5 yr warranty from the date of purchase. If it is an Embraco compressor I would try and overload and relay. They are all in one part sometimes called a start device.

Sep 24, 2007 | Amana ARB2217C Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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