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Removeing invertor from powermate 1500 generator

How to remove to replace rod and crank

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  • hoopiecar10 Jan 29, 2009

    how do i get the gen off the crank to repair thee engine

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To get the rotor off the crank.

Lossen the through bolt a few turns...
Get some one to pull on the rotor and give the bolt a sharp hard hit.. The bolt can buckle some times but still be ok..

90% of the small gensets just use a tapper shaft.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Without removing engine..replace rod bearings


You may be able to remove oil pan and get at rod bearings. You would need to see if crank journals are scoured. If so, the crank may need to be turned or ground. Generally with a high mileage engine, the more you get into it, the more issues you find. You may need an engine overhaul?

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I assume you have removed the valve head-valve plate-cylinder assembly from the base and pistons. Remove the four bolts holding the bearing cap assembly on one side of the crankcase and remove the cap. You have to pull on the crank to get the crank bearing out of the opposite side of the crankcase. Move the crank forward and turn it until the rear bearing will clear the crankcase and the whole thing will tilt and come out the top. Campbell sells the entire crank, con rods, pistons & rings as an assembly under part number VT040600AJ. This is the best way to go as they don't have con rods to go on the crank if you were to get the journals turned down. NOTE: During reassembly, the bottoms of the cylinders have a taper so you don't need a ring compressor to get the pistons in the cylinders. Just be sure the oil rings are in properly before pushing the cylinder all the way down. The thin oil scrapper rings have a tendency to fold over and get caught between the piston and cylinder.

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To change the outer main bearing on a t30 - 23405l do you have to take everything apart including taking off the jugs?


Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

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I am assuming that you mean the generator head from the engine. If this is so, 1st remove the end cover from the gen. head. You will see a bolt that goes through the rotor shaft to the engine shaft. The engine his a tapered shaft, that the gen head bolts to. 2) Remove the long bolt from the rotor shaft. 3) Remove the 4 long bolts that hold the housing ends together. 4) cut a length of rod that is smaller in diameter than the rotor shaft bolt and about 1/2 inch shorter. This will be used as a push rod to separate the engine shaft from the rotor shaft. 5) There are threads at the beginning(inside) of the rotor shaft. Most likely metric. Find the right size bolt, approx. 1" long. Screw in until contact with the push rod. (If possible, use an impact wrench to make it easy.) Tighten til the shafts "pop loose." One suggestion to keep the engine from rotating while doing this is to remove the spark plug, stick a length of small rope down the hole, leaving some hanging out, rotate engine until piston packs against the rope and stops the rotation. 6)now that the gen head is removed, the engine mounting end can be removed. Good luck.

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Unbolt and slide the stator over the rotor exposing it. Then simply unscrew the one bolt holding it to the crank. In my experience you need an impact to get the bolt out with spinning the engine and the rotor may need some negotiation to get off. Try a rubber mallet or a sledge with a block of wood, also may need to use a puller as well. Some come off easy but remember you can only hit a magnet so many times before it begins to lose magnetism.

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