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KitchenAid KGRT607HBS9 : cut-out thermal 341196#17, thermostat(high limit) 9759944 #20, bimetal thermostat 9752006 #22, Are these three gas range/convention oven parts are normally close in a con

Posted by Anonymous on

5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bestdarngood
  • 3037 Answers

SOURCE: dryer heating

http://www.applianceaid.com/newimages/GLER331A.jpg
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/swfedwd.jpg

These links will help you out, both are wiring diagrams. I hope this helps you out and solves your problem. Good luck and don't forget to rate this solution.

Feel free to post more on this issue if you need to

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: heating elements on gas dryer

Okay...the write-up you read was advice for ELECTRIC dryers. The model number you provided is for a GAS dryer. You have a burner assembly in your dryer instead of a heating element. The likely culprit on a gas dryer that no longer heats, is the igniter. The following link will shed some light on how the igniters work:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

I know the link is for advice on how to replace an igniter in a gas range, but the theory of operation is the same. Read the top portion of the link I provided.

The igniter will become weak with age and will either stop glowing, or will glow, but not draw the necessary current to open the gas safety valve. This is a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from entering the dryer cabinet without ignition. I would recommend you check first to see if the igniter is glowing. You can see an illustration of what I'm talking about by going to searspartsdirect.com and entering your model number. If you look under the "Burner,Valve" heading on the next page, the igniter is listed as item 74. Let me know what you find.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

  • 512 Answers

SOURCE: Thermal limiter stops dryer; replaced multiple times. Dryer dead.

I think you are working on the wrong end. Check the fan and inlet ductwork of the dryer, if the air isn't moving properly, it will not move enough to keep the coils and limiters cool and they will fail after working properly a few times.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: My Frigidaire Affinity Dryer won't heat up element good just replaced the thermistor and also the fuse only thing left to replace is the Thermal High Limit... but tested that and it was good any t

Are you sure you have 240V going to the dryer?

Posted on Nov 06, 2012

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No a kenmore 80 series dryer will not heat . if the heating elment is good & fuse is good what else could be the problem


The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Mar 09, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

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KNOWING ABOUT THERMOSTAT.


Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} What is a thermostat?
A thermostat is a device for regulating the temperature of a system so that the system's temperature is maintained near a desired set point temperature. The name is derived from the Greek words thermos "hot" and statos "a standing".
What is a dryer thermostat?
A dryer thermostat is usually oval shaped and about an inch and a half in length. The thermostat contains a bimetal that opens and closes a pair of contacts depending on the temperature inside the dryer. The bimetal inside the thermostat is designed to bend at specific temperatures. When the bimetal bends, it pushes an actuator. The actuator then pushes on a contact, opening the electrical circuit and breaking the electrical connection to the related component. When the thermostat cools, the bimetal returns to its original shape and the contacts close, allowing the current to flow through the circuit.
Have you ever thought about how hot your dryer gets? Thermostats and thermal fuses are put in dryers for your safety and if you don't maintain them, you could be putting yourself, your house, and your family at risk.
Your dryer uses of a combination of heat and airflow to dry your clothes. The heat generated in your dryer is produced by a heating element controlled by a series of thermostats. If any of your dryer's thermostats are defective, the results can be disastrous.
Here's how it works: The dryer is turned on and heat begins to radiate from the heating element into the dryer's drum. The air in the drum passes by a thermostat. As the thermostat reaches its maximum temperature, the bimetal bends, cutting the power to the heating element. The circuit stays open until the bimetal cools. Because the heating element isn't providing additional heat, the dryer's temperature gradually falls. The bimetal returns to its original shape and the electric current flows to start the heating element again. This process happens many times throughout your dryer's cycle.
There are at least two thermostats in your dryer: cycling (operating) thermostat and hi-limit safety) thermostat. The difference between these two thermostats is their opening and closing temperatures.
The cycling thermostat is typically found in the path of the air leaving the drum. A cycling thermostat is usually found on the fan housing or just under the lint filter area, on the blower wheel housing or inside the venting/exhaust system.
Some dryers may have as many as five thermostats - one for each of the different heat cycles. The temperature setting or cycle selected determines which thermostat is used to control the heat. If your dryer is malfunctioning on the low heat setting, the thermostat for that particular setting is probably defective.
The thermostats for the high and medium temperature selections are not the problem. However, if the dryer isn't working properly for most of the heat settings, it's probably a problem with your vent rather than the thermostats.
The hi-limit thermostat protects your dryer from overheating. This thermostat is usually found on the heating element, housing, or cage assembly. If the airflow in the dryer becomes obstructed by a plugged or improperly installed vent, bad drum seals, or a defective blower, the high-limit thermostat cuts power to the heating element. This means there are other problems with your dryer.
In conjunction with thermostats, dryers use thermal fuses as a safety device. Some dryer models may have two thermal fuses to detect extreme heat. If the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut power to the heating element and the element gets too hot, the thermal fuse blows and cuts all power to the dryer. This could mean that a thermostat is defective or something is wrong with your venting duct, filters, seals, or blower. You cannot reset thermal fuses so once they blow they must be replaced. Get the proper replacement fuse for your model and replace the hi-limit thermostat as well. Never bypass a thermal fuse.
Have a look at your dryer's manual for the locations of its thermostats. It's unusual for a dryer's thermostat to continue operating at a different temperature than originally intended and the only way to test for this would be by checking the temperature of the exhaust. You can do this by placing a pocket thermometer inside the exhaust vent. This test is done with the dryer running, so be extremely careful.
Checking continuity is another way to test your thermostat. There's a wire leading to each of the thermostat's terminals. The wires are connected by metal slip-on connectors. Label the wires before you remove them so that you're able to correctly reconnect them later. To remove the wires use needle nose pliers to pull on the connectors - don't pull on the wires themselves.
Set your multimeter to the RX1 setting. With the thermostat at room temperature, touch one meter probe to one terminal and touch the other meter probe to the other terminal. You should receive a reading of zero. If a thermostat is tested when it's heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. You should replace your thermostat if it fails either of these tests.
The thermostat is attached to the dryer with two screws. Remove both screws and discard the faulty thermostat. Install a new thermostat, securing it in place with two screws. Reconnect the two wires, put your dryer back together, and restore power to the dryer. Run your dryer through a cycle to make sure it's working properly.
Safety Warning: Before performing any tests or repairs on your dryer disconnect the power source to eliminate the risk of electric shock. You can do this by unplugging the dryer, removing the related fuse from the fuse box, or flipping the appropriate switch on the breaker panel.
For better protection of your family and yourself - maintain your dryer regularly. But if you can't do it yourself, make sure you contact a qualify service technician to do it for you. www.victorwod1234.blogspot.com

on Apr 08, 2010 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

LER4634EQO Whirlpool Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity 4 cycle 3 temptures My dryer is not heating. I have checked the breaker(s). There is not much lint around the dryer in the back or the vent, what...


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Feb 10, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model RES7745PQ0 works great but no heat... what is most likely the problem... also I checked my breaker so that's not it...? HELP\r\nBest Regards


The problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

The
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.

In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the
thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above bypassed.

Jan 19, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have an older Kenmore gas dryer model # 97260100 it heats up for 15 minutes then goes cold, drum continues to run can u give me any insight as to what needs to be replaced


The problem is either of the cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat or the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify any of these condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_16.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72872 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Have a kenmore model # 110.72822101, where's the thermostat located, my dryer gets hot then cold


The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
jahn27_15.jpg
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.

Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.

Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure

Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.

Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.

Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.

Nov 08, 2010 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Location fuses Whirpool duet dryer


The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing outlet to the left of the thermistor. For electric dryers, the thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the heater housing. For gas dryers, the high-limit thermostat and the flame sensor are located on the burner.

Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet and turn-off the gas supply for gas dryers.

Remove the two screws at the bottom of the toe panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.

Check the continuity of the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter set to X1. The ohmmeter should read zero ohms. Replace both the thermal fuse (part #3392519) and the thermistor (part #8577274) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

Do the same with the thermal cut-off. Replace both the thermal cut-off (part #279973) and the high-limit thermostat (part #3391914) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

The high-limit thermostat is located next to the heater terminal block and next to it is the thermal cut-off.

Slide the toe panel in place up and into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Note: Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the component before performing the continuity test.

Feb 22, 2010 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Thermal cut-off blows and high limit thermostat is working with vent clean.Replaced thermal cut-off, high limit thermostat and heating element. Still blows thermal cut-off.


Any time a thermal cut off blows, it's because the cycling thermostat is bad. When it's bad, the machine cycles off of the thermal cut off rather than the cycling thermostat allowing the dryer to over heat. The thermal cut off is a re-setting safety and is not made to cycle off of. The thermostat you are looking for looks like a high limit thermostat but it cuts power to the element at a lower temp. Around 158 degrees + or - 25 degrees. It's located close to the high limit. It's a normally closed switch that opens on the rise and it will show closed now but the problem with it is that will not open. Replace it and your problem will be solved. Good luck.

Oct 16, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

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