Check the motor shaft. It could be bent making the pully wobble which makes the whole turntable vibrate which gets passed through the needle. I just found this out on mine. Easy way to test is to hold the platter while the needle is resting on the record. The speakers will hum/wobble at a low frequency. Lift the needle off the record and the sound stops? It's the motor...
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The hum of course is the 60 cycle line AC voltage. Make sure that the routing of the AC power plug is as distant as possible from the stereo RCA cables.
The most likely problem is the connection of the phono cartridge to the wires in the arm. These connections usually are silver plated and become oxidized creating a bad connection. Remove the cartridge and using a fine eraser polish the connections. There is a ground connection that makes the five wire connection. Be super carfull these terminals are very easy to break
The phono connections to the stereo is very low voltage subject to interference. The connection to the magnetic pickup at the tone arm is low impedance and is inductive. Any poor connection between the cartridge up to the AV316 will produce this hum. Continue to check connections and swap cables with a known good to resolve.
I have switched the left and right cables to ensure that the cable is not the problem.
Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.
A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.
On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
Audio output amp section circuit to your amp [left] has damaged. Check and replace damaged component/s there. The work will is a skilled one. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" or "Magazine" will make surf easy Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Hello! Did you connect single black ground wire to the "ground" terminal at your amp? Probably not! Or, it got stepped on it, while moving around. Professional of hi-fi turntables using magnetic cartridges and require 2 well shielded audio cables, connected directly to the cartridge, plus separate ground wire, which attached to all the metal parts of tone arm and body. Failure to connect this wire to the body(metal) or the amplifier, will cause this loud "hum". thanks, Alex.
The problem in that case is loose connection.Plss check first the wiring of the speaker then the speaker then the amplifier located at the board of your television.Try to fix wiring use soldering iron if there's a loose connection at the board..
Hi, you may have a bad Earth power 110 V AC cable connection which makes such hum / buzz even nothing connected..
Check the connections between
components and make sure they are secure before proceeding to the next
Step. Sometimes, loose connections can cause a hum.
Separate the audio cables from
the power cables; electromagnetic interference from the power cables can
cause stereo hum. Use cable ties to secure the audio cables away from
the power cables.
Plug in a surge protector to the outlet, and then plug all the components into that surge protector
Connect a ground plug to the
surge protector and then plug the ground plug into the main outlet. A
ground plug is available at any hardware store, and turns a three prong
connection into a two prong. Ground plugs help eliminate 60 cycle hum.
Connect the ground wire from
your turntable to the ground wire connection on the receiver. If this
doesn't work, looking on the back there should be a grounding point,
receiver.. Split a wire and attach one of the splits to the receiver
where you will see the text, "ground" or something similar. Attach the
other end to something metal such as a pipe that goes into the ground.
Secure with electrical tape. Plug in.
connect the ground wire to a screw on the electrical
You have either got a bad earth connection, or possibily there's a capacitor failed.
If you can't find a dodgy conection, I would replace the large Electrolytic Capacitors in the power section, they are used to take out 50hz hum in the mains electric, when they go you get that hum coming into your system.