Question about Whirlpool LER8648P Electric Dryer

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Whirlpool LER8648PW1 turns but no heat

I have already replaced thermal switch(s)? on duct housing (mistakenly measured with one wire still connected!). Did not solve problem so now I have spare parts :). I have now isolated problem to voltage issue at the heating element. I have proper voltage to dryer (240v; 120v; 120v) but at the element only have 120v on wire (white/red I think) that travels up wiring harness but 0v on red wire leading to motor area at bottom of the machine. To reduce me from buying more parts that are not the problem I have tried to locate a wiring schematic and have not been successful thus far. Any help locating this would be appreciated. Any assistance with solving this issue would be even more appreciated as I am starting to feel like I woke up in a 'Little house on the prairie' nightmare with all these clothes hanging around the house drying! Thanks, Joe

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The wiring schenmatic is located inside the console area. but real simple, youll need to check(with wires off) continuity throiugh all of you thermostats, in particular, the one at eh botom and top of the heater pan, as well as continuity throughthe heater itself

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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LER6848AW1 whirlpool supreme dryer will not heat at all. All the thurmastats have the proper readings. What do I do now that I've tested them? I have already installed a new element thinking that was...


Hi istine43...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. Then try to start the dryer and check for heat.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 17, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer won't heat and the timer won't advance. I already replaced the thermostat but that didn't fix the problem


Hi christarn1

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 14, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

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The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

Aug 22, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 series electric dryer wont heat up.I have already replaced the heater and the temp switch


You may want to check the Thermal cutt-off at the side top of the heat duct, or the Thermal fuse attatched to blower housing. There is also a High-Limit at the bottom of the heat duct.

Apr 12, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool LE58000xkwo Electric dryer. i appears to have a high limit thermostat failure. the unit runs but gets extreemly hot. if that thermostat fails does the heating element run away. the unit...


The heating element does not necessarily go out when the high-limit thermostat goes out. The reason for the overheating is likely a clogged lint filter or vent duct system or a cycling thermostat failure. Make sure the lint filter and the vent duct system are clear then replace the high-limit thermostat (part number 279052) and the three thermostats (part number 694674) on the blower housing if the overheating continues. The thermal fuse (part number 3390719), also on the blower housing, is still good but you may also replace it as a preventive measure.

Remove the back panel to access the thermostats and the thermal fuse from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the wires, unscrew the parts, and then install the new ones. It is a good idea to take note of the wire connections before disconnecting to avoid messing them up.

Feel free to update us about the troubleshooting and repair. This is a pro bono service and rating the advice/solution should you find it helpful as a sign of gratitude will do and much appreciated. Do not hesitate to ask further questions should you need clarification if something is unclear or not applicable before giving an adverse rating.

Aug 18, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

No heat in dryer model # 96591420


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jul 31, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool Dryer Does not dry


Its the thermal fuse. when you jump or, by-pass the cycle thermostat, you are basically by-passing the fuse as well. replacing the thermal fuse will fix thsi issue.

The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jun 21, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Will not turn on


Hi,
check out the following cause =

Door switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. 

Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. 

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) 

Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

good luck..........

Mar 28, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool Gold Electric Dryer.


Hope your sitting down. There is not just heating elements in the dryer there are thermal switches that turn heating elements off & on like your house thermostat clicks off & on. Also there are overheating thermal switches to keep the elements from setting the dryer, clothes on fire. More than likely you overheating thermal switch has tripped, from lent in vent or pinched vent tube or normal failure. Some of these switches can be reset, others replaced. If you can not trouble shoot electrical circuits leave it to repairman. Switch $20.00 to $42.00 Labor service call cheaper to buy cheap new dryer. Could be heating element but most use only one with different inputs for heat. If your getting some heat not likely element.

Mar 08, 2009 | Dryers

3 Answers

Help me with #ler4634jq1


alex1rc
markhall 92

open the case as described elsewhere in 'replace belt' questions, I get tired of typeing, and examine the fan body and exhaust ducts for a thermal fuse
looks like

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or

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one shot device to cutoff current for over temp
If there is no conductivity through the device (remove 1 wire to isolate test with ohmeter)
replacements are ~$15 each, common to most dryers the local appliance part store will have them
or your local service guy can do it, I take ~15 minutes, and charge $35 plus parts, sorry not an offer, I am likely 100 miles away
Before you put the dryer back together
clean all lint from fan impeller fan housing and exhast duct, right to house outside wall, most common cause for blown thermal fuse

Aug 24, 2008 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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