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No heat runs fine

Worked fine for two loads now no heat vent clear tested element with ohm tester tested with no epen reading

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Look for high temp overload switches/safeties.

Ohm those out. If one is tripped make sure the vent pipe and outlet is clear. A partially clogged vent cause it to overheat and trip safety switches.
Some are auto reset, some are manual reset, and some are one time trip and must be replaced.

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Maytag Epic dryer model MED9800TQ0. Dryer was running fine, changed loads, held the start button down, it beeped and attempted to turn the drum, clicked and nothing. All the controls light up, timer...


does the element come on at this point ?
I'm not sure if you tried this already or not, but i would unplug the unit and wait a min and plug it back in and see if it resets and then works again . you could have had a power surge .

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Not Drying No Heat


Test for these first:
First of all, see if you have good voltage supply on the socket on which it is powered too.

(1) All venting is clear of lint, even disconnected from back of dryer.

(2) Breaker in house is not tripped. Cycle the breakers off and back on to make sure.

(3) Test continuity on all thermostats and thermal fuses, all have to measure 0 ohms when wires are disonnected and dryer unplugged. We tested the HiLimit Thermostat, Safety Thermostat, and Thermal fuse mounted to the heating element housing, all should have continuity. Also measure the two thermostats located near the exhaust duct in the rear of the dryer, get 0 ohms as well.

(4) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test continuity from each terminal to the metal cage to make sure none of the elements were grounded. Good if theres no continuity there.

(5) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test resistance between double coil and inner/outer coil. Each should measure around 19 ohms.

(6) Test the dryer temperature switch by removing wire from terminal 15, then took a reading between terminal 15 and terminal 16, should get 0 ohms there.

(7)Test the dryer timer by first setting the timer to 60 minutes. then remove the wire from terminal A. We then took a reading between terminal A and terminal B, and should get 0 ohms. then keet the leads on those two terminals and rotate the timer and had continuity throughout the 70 minute cycle.

Apr 14, 2008 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

Only gets warm not hot. Has been intermittent problem. works for six monhts and then fails for a few days then works again. Vent line is clear


Could be thermostats or heating element ..You will need to test them with multimeter stats should be closed circuit Element may be Twin circuit for low to high heat Should read around 38 OHMS....

Feb 22, 2011 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

Heating element replaced. Worked one load and back or dryer seemed very hot. Turned off and later ran on low. Next load no heat.


Hi.

There is either a problem with the thermostats that turn off the heating element, or the heating element is plugged (elements has contact to ground and stays always on).

Heating element and thermostats are tested reading Ohms with a multimeter set at Rx1. If the circuit is open (Ohms stay infinite), then the part is defective.

If the machine overheated, then the element may be gone again. Test reading Ohms.

Also replace the thermostats (there should be two or three of them), unless the element had a contact, the most common cause for overheating is a shorted thermostat.

Aug 04, 2010 | EuroTech EDC158 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs...timer wont rotate and wont heat up


Good day,
Timer woun't run if there is n heat.
1. Check to see you are getting 230 volts to the machine. The motor uses only 115 so is not a good indication.
2. Remove back cover. You will need an ohm meter to test the components.
A. In the center bottom is a skinny white bakelite device held on with one screw. Remove one wire and check. It should check zero ohms. If not replace.
B. On the bottom right is a canister with the heating element terminals sticking out. They should test at 30 or less ohms. If not replace the heating element.
C. There are about 3 other limit thermostats in the area you're working. They should all check at zero ohms. Replace as needed.

Below is a tutorial on changing a heating element.

http://www.applianceaid.com/wp_element.html

Mar 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

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1 Answer

IHAVE A HOVER SIX TC650 WHICH WILL NOT HEAT UP ALTHOUGH THE DRUM IS WORKING FINE AND SPINNING.HAVE CHECKED THE FILTERS AND THEY ARE FINE.WHAT CAN BE WRONG


Hi.

Test and eventually replace the Dryer thermal fuse
The fuse is located on the blower wheel cover.
The fuse can be tested using a multimeter.
If the fuse has continuity , then is good.

Test the heating element and the thermostat Thermal cut-off .

Both are tested using a multimeter to read impedance. Set multimeter at Rx1, on Ohms.

To test the element disconnect element and point tester probes at element contact.
If there is no continuity, and the circuit is open, then the element is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested jumping its wires to bypass it, but there are many safety concerns doing this kind of test.
Better disconnecting the thermostat and reading Ohms, as for the element.
At room temp the thermostat must have low impedance, if it goes to infinity, and circuit is open at room temperature, then the thermostat is bad.

If both test good, and you have no heating at all, then it may be a bad electronic control, or a wiring problem.

All test and repair must be done by a technician.

If you need to contact a technician you can call the number listed on the owners manual.


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1 Answer

My Lady Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care electric dryer model #86692100 abruptly stopped heating. Fuses are okay and venting is fine. Need troubleshooting information


Hi.

Test the heating element and the thermostat.

Both are tested using a multimeter to read impedance. Set multimeter at Rx1, on Ohms.

To test the element disconnect element and point tester probes at element contact.
If there is no continuity, and the circuit is open, then the element is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested jumping its wires to bypass it, but there are many safety concerns doing this kind of test.
Better disconnecting the thermostat and reading Ohms, as for the element.
At room temp the thermostat must have low impedance, if it goes to infinity, and circuit is open at room temperature, then the thermostat is bad.

If both test good, and you have no heating at all, then it may be a bad electronic control, or a wiring problem.

The model number you gave does not match.

Try Entering correct model number on this website to get parts and diagrams.

Regards.

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1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

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it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

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