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Igniter glows all the time

I have a Hot Point gas oven. Any time the oven is plugged in the igniter glows even if the oven is in the off position. Is this a problem in the switch\temp dial?

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Not necessarly, it sounds as if you may have a short in the wire leading to the ignitor itself ir there exposed wired from ignitor hittting the wall of\r floor it will glow continiously

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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Model FGF326ASD. Gas oven igniter glows but no gas there to light. What controls the gas valve in the oven?


From what I can see on the web, all point to a weak "glow ignitor," some says that the glow ignitor can glow and sometimes can even be drawing the correct current but still not hot enough to ignite the gas. Tho one thing I don't understand is how can a ignitor range in price that much... I can find one online for $16 to $50... local appliance part stores wants $70 - $80 for it... and its not refundable...

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1 Answer

Oven will not come on


This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on and the igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. You can also verify that the oven run-away valve is not closed. This valve will be located at the back bottom of the range at the gas regulator. There will be a tab on the regulator housing where the gas pipe goes to the oven. This tab will lift up to close gas flow to the oven. Sometimes these valves can stick causing the oven to stop working. You can try moving this tab back and forth to see if it loosens any debris in the valve. Move the valve while the oven is on and you will be able to hear the burner come on after moving the valve if that was the problem.

May 07, 2010 | Whirlpool GS460 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven will not heat


This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.

Apr 01, 2010 | Tappan TGF363 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

We have a Whirlpool AccuBake Gas Range. Yesterday we set the oven to Bake at 350 degress. The Display reflected the word "PreHeat" which it always does when we first start the process of baking. However,...


You will first need to verify if the oven igniter is glowing. When you turn on the oven you should be able to see a glow coming from the oven burner compartment. You may need to remove the oven bottom panel to verify if it is working. If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that there is power going to the igniter wire harness and that the igniter is working(has no cracks and tests good with a ohm meter). If the igniter is glowing then this problem can be caused by a weak hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. One thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve stick after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.

Mar 22, 2010 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Fridgidaire gas stove oven glow lights up but oven doesn't come on sometimes then I smell gas, other times it comes right on with no problems


This is a common problem that happens when the oven gas control valve is sticking. This can be caused by a weak hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. One thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve stick after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.

Mar 16, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My oven doesn't work but the burners do, what's up with that?


I was looking for a solution to my problem. In reading the comments, I can probably provide more information than is given here. My Kenmore gas oven won't ignite. I have over 25 years as an electronics techincian so I am very aware of lethal voltages. I unplugged my stove, it is a 120 volt model. After pulling the panel off so I could get to the thermostat which is the piece the knob goes on, I plugged the stove in and checked to make sure I have 120VAC to the thermostat. I have a red wire which has 120Vac, the thermostat probe wires, and a yellow wire which goes down to the back of the oven.
My red wire had 120Vac. I then unplugged the stove, very important at this point, and meaured with an ohmmeter across the yellow and red wires. When the oven is in the off position this is open. When I turn the oven on it is shorted. That should confirm the thermostat switch works. The next thing that has to happen is the glow bar/igniter has to glow. This is like all gas appliances, it has to glow to heat the gas valve and turn the gas on. My igniter doesn't glow so I ordered a new igniter. If your glow bar glows, it could still be the glow bar/igniter or the gas valve is not allowing gas to flow even after it is heated up.
If anyone sees a problem with this procedure, please let me know.

Nov 19, 2008 | Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen...

2 Answers

Oven igniter will not lite


Replace the igniter. Even if it's glowing red hot, it is still likely the problem. Evidently the oven reads the resistance across the heating element, and when it doesn't detect enough resistance, it knows that the igniter is wearing out, thus not getting hot enough, and you're going to have a hard time igniting the gas. So, it won't turn on the gas -- how thoughtful of your oven to keep you from blowing up.

I had the same problem until I read all about it at http://fixitnow.com/wp/2004/09/19/appliance-repair-revelation-troubleshooting-a-gas-oven-that-wont-fire-up/

If you're in a bind and need to use your oven tonight (or you want proof that it's the igniter going bad), you can try stealing the igniter from the broiler and using it to replace the igniter for the main part of the oven. Since most people use the broiler less than the regular "bake" feature of the oven, that igniter lasts longer.

Oct 14, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Oven burner delays too much to light


Zanes, Your oven igniter is getting weak. The glowing bar next to the manifold must draw between 2.7 and 3.3 amps before the safety valve will acknowledge that it's actually hot enough to ignite gas and open up. Your igniter is most likely right at ~2.5 amps and the valve is "wanting" to open, but won't without some persuasion (hammer anyone?). The part number for your igniter is 9753108 and is available. Your local appliance parts house may not carry it, but there is a substitute that they WILL carry. Its' part number is WB2x9998. It's a universal flat igniter. Unplug the oven before repairing it, OK?

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