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Re: gas payne furnace pg8m
Take the burners out and wire brush them to get the clogged holes opened. Including the side discharge gas traveling holes. Blow out the burners with shop air and check the fresh air supply and the smoke stack.Retry.
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If your furnace has a filter or fan compartment door, be sure it closed tightly and that the filter is installed correctly - there could be an interlock switch that is preventing the thermostat from operating. Also, if you haven't already turned off the power to the furnace, do that, wait a minute and then turn it back on.
Obviously, make sure the thermostat is on, is set to heat and calling.
Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this: L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing) Black Hi Blue Med Red LO Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay. The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace. The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off. L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side
The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.
If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.
The problem you describe sounds pretty much like your gas valve is going bad. There is a brand by Honeywell called a Smart Valve which is anything but smart, when the electronics in the valve start going bad the furnace will run great for a day or two and then the next day may not run at all and then an hour later my run and then an hour later may not run again. Very sporadic operating furnace is usually the Honeywell Smart gas valve going bad.
you should have 24 volts between yellow and white wires at the stat when the stat is set to heat and set as hot as it will go. burners should light first then 3 to 5 minutes later the fan motor should fire up. if burner doesn't light check the wires going into the top of the gas valve see if you have 24 volts arriving there from the stat. if you do then the gasvalve is probably bad. you can bypass the action of the stat by jumping red to white on 90 percent of the stats made and in a few seconds the gas valve should click open gas flow to main burner where pilot ignites it. another easy check you can do is flip stat fan switch to on. fan should come on at once. if not then you have either no high voltage to unit or no low voltage ( as in a bad transformer). if the fan comes on you know you have high volts and low volts...by cover i assume you mean the decorative cover but there second cover with the mercury bulbs and all is still there. if you have only the bare subbase then new stat time. sounds like an old furnace if it has a standing pilot, it should be checked for cracked heat exchanger by a pro with a n electronic carbon monoxide detector. NOT a diy item due to the real danger of co poisoning.
I don't know how high the water got but if only the burner was covered it is probably just dirt. Try replacing the thermocouple this is usually less than $10. If the gas valve itself was wet REPLACE THE WATER HEATER!!!!!!! Never trust a gas valve that has been wet!!!!! It can seem to work just fine but get stuck in the open position defeating all safety measures.